sandsnip3r

Ok, thanks, you're the man

Ok, thanks for the help, I'll do a lot more research and make sure to go for a high quality install. Also, I have a question about subwoofer wiring. Here is the manual for my amplifier: http://cadencesound.com/content/ZRS-C1.pdf There is a left and right set of terminals, how should i wire the pair of subwoofers to match that? Should I wire a pair of 2ohm DVC's down to 1ohm and then run that into one of the pairs (either left or right)? Or should I wire each sub to a 2ohm load with one into the left and one into the right so that the final load is 1ohm? Does it matter?

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. With the crossover, can I change the frequencies? wannabang, I ran this amp in my old car which had a 90A alternator and only a big 3 upgrade and the worst I ever saw was dimming headlights Do you guys have any other suggestions for a nice pair of components and amp?

Car: 2013 VW Golf 4doorHeadunit: KENWOOD DDX471HD 2DIN 6.1" TOUCHSCREENPlanned sub stage: 2x10" Fi SSD's sealed, ~0.4cubes each, powered by a Cadence ZRS C1 mono (2250rms @ 1ohm)I did my previous car's stereo install which was a single DIN head unit(Alpine IDA-X100), same amplifier(reusing it), and a 15" Fi BTL in a ported box. But with that install, I still only had the stock front speakers. Towards the end, I think even both tweeters died. My previous build was geared towards maximum volume with a high schooler's budget, now that I'm older and my tastes have changed, I plan to build more towards quality but not crazy like I've seen some people take it. I figure that I should upgrade the front speakers&tweeters, but I'm not sure what I want to upgrade them to. Someone had recommended to me PRECISION POWER PPI PC2.65C 6-1/2" 2-WAY COMPONENT with a Precision Power BA1000.4 1000 Watts 4-Channel Class AB Full Range Amplifier to power them. I'm open to many other suggestions. I dont want to modify the door panels at all or really anything in the car like that. I've never done an install that involved that involved anything besides the subwoofer/amp. What is involved in an install like that? Where are the speaker wires currently run, from the factory head unit to the factory speakers? If I power aftermarket speakers with an aftermarket amplifier, where do I put the amp? What is the crossover? Should I do something for the rear speakers also? How necessary is deadening the doors?Thanks a lot for the help! Edit: It looks the stock alternator with this car is ~140A. I'm not sure what the car draws while idling.

Not much! I saw your username on CAF the other day and thought "damn its been a long time since ive seen that name" Only get high QTS if you are NEVER going to run them in a ported enclosure. I wont ever run them ported. I'll be sure to make a note of it so i remember for the future

Oh duh, thanks, I dont know how i missed that. Ok, sounds good. Are any of the others necessary for my what I need?

Previously I owned a 15" BTL running on a Cadence ZRS C1. The sub was in a ported box tuned around 34hz. I bought a new car and I'm selling my old car, I really enjoyed it and miss it already. In my new car, I'd like to keep the build small and oriented towards quality. I'd like to run 2 10" Fi SSD's on the same amp in a sealed box. I plan on building a box right around 0.4 cubic feet for each sub. Problem is, to run the subs on that mono at 1 ohm, I think need them in DVC 4ohm, will Fi build them like that? Also which options should I get on the subs and why? Thanks guys!

i am afraid that this summer i am just going to sit around. Lose motivation and not go to the gym. I ought to get a job working at a hardware store's loading dock or something....

I made it into the 1000 pound club earlier this year. The 1000 pound club is when your bench, squat, and deadlift add up to at least 1000 lbs. I am 17 years old (18 tomorrow) 5'10" 240lbs. 200lbs bench, 355lbs squat, 495lbs deadlift. I have made much improvement this year. I work out only 2-3 days a week at school in weights class. My agility, endurance, and strength have improved far more than i could say that i expected.

Oops, sorry... hah

Okay, cool, sounds like it'll be great! Thanks for the help

it's a truck so maybe a 250-300amp alt. ok

good electrical system... H.O. alt and ~3 deep cycles(including the one under the hood)? Would that work?

Haha, alright, thanks guys, so 1 will be sufficient?

jay-cee, they will be "fully loaded" BLs in a ported box, 15-17 cubes. 2 2500's would seem like it would be giving the subs sufficient power to be loud but still have room for more, and I do like the idea of 2 3500's but the 4500's aren't too much of a price difference to make that extra step and just run them at a lower gain setting, perhaps running them cooler, and completely avoid any possibilities of clipping. Simply the reason I ask such an obvious question is that I have heard/seen that Fi's subs(at least the BTL[fully loaded]) are capable of comfortably taking more than than they are rated for. Even 200% of rated RMS... Thankyou for the help guys, I am just trying to learn all i can!