johnecon2001

What amp do you have? Are you sure it's even enough to power two BTL's?

I'm at the ridiculous point now that when I swap drives out of my server I'm left with smaller ones to do something with. For example, I replaced a 400GB IDE with a 750GB IDE. Threw the 400GB into a cheap case that has USB2.0 and FireWire and booyah. Bombdiggity external drive. It's a little more expensive to buy a drive and a case separately, but worth it in my opinion. You know what pieces you're getting this way.

I think I just pooped a little.

If you're getting a new alternator and batteries, you won't need the capacitor. Hell, even if you weren't getting the alt and batts, you wouldn't need it.

Nice! Are you gonna jump on that alternator? Thats a great deal for that power.

fat tuesday lub

How has no one mentioned Uncharted for the PS3 yet? I don't even own a PS3 and I know the game is badass. Get that one if you like things like Metal Gear Solid and FPS type stuff. Hell, just get it anyway.

This is how not to make a first post on a forum. Don't be ghetto. Do it right. Haha. Ok. Because it is so inefficient to use the battery as a distro. right? Obviously you would use an in-line fuse for each of the amps. I see no need for a Distro Block, Especially for the grounds. Run both amp grounds directly to the rear battery (-) terminal which should be in parallel with the under hood battery. You're not making friends here. Back off. You see no reason for a distro for the grounds because you've probably never used one properly. I didn't say it was inefficient to use the battery as a distro.. just that it wasn't the right way.

You seriously need to lay off the caps lock kid.

Sounds like a good plan.

Why do you need the cap?

The Drive rack 260 can be had on ebay for under $700. It gives you independent control of each output (none of that stereo shit that the PA makes you do). Check these out: http://cgi.ebay.com/BSS-FDS-340-3-or-4-WAY...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/Bss-FDS-360-Crossover-...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/BSS-FDS-360-FDS-360-Cr...7QQcmdZViewItem

Yellow is a Deepcycle (what you want for car audio), Red is a Sealed starting battery.

I highly doubt you have any SQ with your L7's.

Yup, thats the one you want!

Try the DriveRack 260 instead of the PA. Pass on the BBE, they get a little hissy sometimes. And of course.. don't do the Behringer if at all possible. Try the Ashly Protea 3.24CL (3x6 digital), for analog the XR stuff is nice, just a little limited on what you can do with them. Rane also has some nice older analog gear in the AC-23, AC-22 and the AC-22B. And then the cream of the crop is something from BSS. Like an OmniDrive.

Deaden and clay the doors? Get rid of the passive crossover and amp actively.

Sundown is not SUONO. Sundown amps accept 18v on the input.

You can also get gauge reducers to turn 1/0awg into 4awg width.

You could take into account the negligible difference in displacement. That's about it though.

LOL, I never would have guessed that.

I've had direct experience with them. They don't do rated power and the transistors and capacitors in them have a nasty habit of burning up and sending square waves to your speakers. We had 35 of them (3000's, 2000's, 1200's, 600's) in an installation that ultimately led us to replace the 16 blown HF drivers in our 16 Box EAW KF761 Line array. We've moved on to better things.

Does anyone else know what the hell he's trying to say??

Each? Maybe 1500 with the Flatwind and the Cooling.

maybe not in terms of pure sq, more like will it sound ok and not run into some weird cancellation that would make listening suck No, in terms of any SQ. Don't use the acronym if you don't know what it means. There's SQ and Not SQ. No such thing as "pure sq". It will suck for SQ having two tweeters playing the same thing. But if you're into sucking..