johnecon2001

Just curious, I'm looking to poach a few ideas off of you.

Do you want the setup to be louder?

There are several things that could have caused the amp to pop the fuse. A short in the speaker wire could have done it, a short in the power and ground wire, too low of a ohm load, too little voltage the gain being to high and clipping the snot out of the amp. Also... why is your fuse that close to your amp? It's supposed to be 12-18" away from the FRONT battery.

Let's totally ignore the fact that whatever box you build will have a major effect on which is louder (that's what I'm guessing you really want to know). Let's look strictly at power and cone area. You're doubling the power and increasing the cone area.. so I'd go with the 12's being a bit louder than the single 15 due to those two facts alone. Of course this is all theoretical and could totally be the opposite depending on how good of an installer/box builder you are.

Or like this since this was the only picture I could find.

Yay, come help me fix my Tacoma rattles Ant! I'll buy you beer and grill you some mean burgers..

ehh... not necessarily. http://www2b.abc.net.au/science/k2/stn/arc...opic460827.shtm http://www2b.abc.net.au/science/k2/stn/arc...topic46825.shtm Read plz.

Read Audio-Neon's reply. $600 is the MSRP. der.

jesus, that part looks like it sucked lol

lol, that's easy. Get the SSA ICON. Port the bish and be happy.

Post once. Not twice. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=13867&hl=

Seriously? Look at the top of this page and click on the word "Shop". Or if you're lazy.. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...Cat&catId=9

Is he really that old or is Jacob really that young? LOL Free Reach-arounds for Nick!

Yaaaayyyy! Another Arizona local. Can we molester you into coming to out meet? (whenever that may be)

The Dado blade is a blade that is slanted and essentially "wobbles" in the saw. Yes its a table saw. It gives you the ability to cut a wider track in the wood without having to have a blade that is 1" to 1 1/2" thick.

Shouldn't be much, especially if you bring them the parts to paint rather than the car. I doubt you'll need much blending on that color.

Just looking at the internal guts you can tell the power is there.

Responded to your other thread. You don't need that little cap with the active crossover you're running. You'll just be wasting power from the amp on them.

Incorrect, You can't add slopes together. They will overlay though if you have two crossovers at the same point, and the one with a greater slope will basically take precedents over the shallower one.

Lol, 6 is probably ok. The recommended box ported max per SSD is 2.5cuft iirc. But if you shoot for 6cuft before port and woofer displacement, I think that should sound nice.

whats a IA 20.1? what would happen if i do run the two amp set-up? Incriminator Audio 20.1 is a monoblock amplifier. As far as what would happen.. refer to the top part of Denim's post.

I remember seeing this build, it had a baffle that was ginourmous

Well I can't answer the cap crossover point question, but I can help with the frequencies you should cross at and what slopes are. I'll start with slopes. The easiest way to understand it is to think of it in grades of steepness like on a highway. You see signs for 7% grade 5% grade and so on. The higher the percent the steeper the grade. Same thing goes for Crossover slopes. The larger the number the steeper the slope. With a steeper slope, the crossover point will encompass less frequencies when it rolls off. Say you cross the tweets at 3k and the mids at 3k using a 24dB slope. The mids will still play up to about 4-5k. They'll play that high at a decreasing rate as the slope goes down, but they'll still play up to it. With a shallower 6dB, they'll play even higher. Vice versa for the tweets. Here is an image that represents that. Look at the red lines and the slope on the front end of one and the slope on the back of the other: You can mess with the slopes to properly blend the sound coming from the speakers. Most speakers have a natural frequency roll of built into them (just the way the thing works). The trick is to find that natural roll off and then find the slope and crossover point that makes the easiest and most natural transition to the tweeter as possible. So you have your approximate roll off point for the tweeter, which is a good place to start. Now find one for the mid. Try a few different ones, make them all decently close to the 3k mark. If it just isn't blending and the tweeter is playing too much, move the point on the tweet up.

That sounds great! Not a whole lotta people do 10's anymore. I personally like smaller setups that get loud.

That's actually a little too small for 3 SSD's and a port. Go for 5.5cuft after port and woofer displacement.