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johnecon2001

SSA Regular
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Everything posted by johnecon2001

  1. If loud is your goal, go for the most cone area possible. Also remember to tune your box higher than normal, 35hz-38hz would be a nice number for something obnoxiously loud.
  2. I'll also beg the question, what do you define as "what would be better/perform better"? Are you looking for reliability? Output? Sound Quality? Efficiency? Performing better is a broad category with many facets. You'll need to be more specific.
  3. You'll wire it in Parallel. both positives to the positive on the amp and both negatives to the negative on the amp.
  4. I was running extreme last year and 4ga speaker wire yeilded a 0.4db gain over 8ga. I tried 2ga but nothing. But this will also depend on your application. That doesn't even apply here! You were probably running considerably more power to your woofers than the OP is.
  5. johnecon2001 replied to phrito's topic in Fi Technical
    For what? Great box... what is it for??? You have no equipment list.. der.
  6. Blowing air around in an enclosed space isn't going to do anything for you. You need a fresh supply to keep the air cool. Otherwise, the air will just be heated by the amps, exhausted and then blown back on them. Think about a port of PVC or flex tube to the front of the car that can hold a fan in each end to get the new air to the back.
  7. why would the hifonics barely do 1000 watts? Because it's a Hifonics. They're not known for their rated power, they're known for being cheap.
  8. Can you leave it open for a few more days? If we cross post on ROE that might bring in a few more souls.
  9. holy crap its dave edwards
  10. Sounds like it could be a bad ground. It also sounds like you didn't set your gain correctly and you just winged it.
  11. You can't do what you want to do with toggle switches on the remote wire. They'd have to be on the RCA's to kill signal to the amp. Or just get an EQ like Benz suggested.
  12. Use a DMM to verify that the amp is getting power. Check all the fuses (both the powerline and the amp fuses). Check the voltage on the remote line (should be 12v). How did you set your gains?
  13. You realize when you use better deadener.. you don't have to use as much right? Butyl is much more effective than asphalt.
  14. You probably should cross the tweeter before you damage it with higher wattage. I second MDF as well. You don't have to use 3/4, you could use something thinner and then cover over it with a finishing board.
  15. Because that 9.3^3ft is before the port and woofers. Internal volume will go down considerably after he adds those two things.
  16. You can't compare them because like you said.. one puts out 2500w and one puts out 1500w. Why is that hard to understand?? They're in different power classes.
  17. Those two amps don't even put out the same amount of power. You CANNOT compare them.
  18. You should probably establish yourself on this forum before asking for favors. Go introduce yourself in the Newbie Sign in.
  19. You'll be no where close to 150dB with either of those setups. You need a double the power and a huge electrical backbone.
  20. Wow pink.. Can't wait to see that lol I'll bet USAmps was happy when you ordered from them, now that they own RE and all.
  21. It's "posse", noobs. I'm in.
  22. You could do 2-15's ported to 32hz and be fine with the space you have. 2 18's... you'd have to go sealed.
  23. That's a good point. You probably don't have much room under the seats, so going with and SD-1v2 is probably a good idea. Although, the Q's sealed don't need a whole lot of space either.

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