johnecon2001

You're using the amp for subs, don't even worry about the THD percent. What's your budget like? Those subs don't deserve either of those amps.

If you're running wire from the front to the back, you may as well run a negative along with the positive.

I don't know the name of AT&T's server, but based upon other newsgroups servers I've used.. try "news.att.com"

W7's with only 250w? You sir, don't deserve to be in car audio. As far as the rest of your post goes.. I have no idea what you're asking, mainly because you offered no model numbers and you use no punctuation.

New dust caps? Does the emblem weigh much? I would think that might change the T/s parameters of the sub a little.

Those look like "walmart grade", not competition grade.

I believe MAW-15's are rated at 500wrms each.

ditto Buy some reducers? How so? if 8 gauge is completly unecessary, wouldnt owning a fully loaded fi btl 12 be completly unecessary? Going overkill on your wires will never hurt your stereo, but running with tiny 16-12 gauge will. It will raise resistance, and not allow every drip of power to get to your speakers. Maybe I will gain a few DB's if I rewire my sub with 16 gauge speaker wire? Underkill ftw? It might matter in higher wattage systems (maybe like yours), but in this case, I doubt the OP is going over 2kW (saying "roughly 2600w" is probably not 2600w) . And for that little power, 12 awg is right in the sweet spot. Anything more is unnecessary.

1200w isn't a whole lot.. but the 15" MAW's do have the cone area advantage over the BL.

It sounds louder after your car heats up because the air is less dense.

Is that a regular Lead/Acid battery? You might want to make sure that it can breath in that box.. they don't do to well in a sealed environment.

Oh gee.. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...p;productId=152

if it changes.. it sounds like something went up the pole vent and is in the coil gap. Like a piece of a foam peanut. Maybe find yourself some compressed air and blow it out real good while gently moving the cone around.

Sounds like you tarded up the install to me. I doubt it has anything to do with the sub.

For the power you have, and your want for SPL, the BL from Fi should fit your needs. One 18". That should be impressive enough for you. You'll need the Dual 1 ohm sub for your amp to provide the best power to it.

That makes no sense, but ok.

keep the RCA's plugged into the amp and unplug them from the HU and see what happens.

You need an amp that will give you about 800w at 4 ohms..

I don't think you fully grasp how much money a REAL build is going to cost you. You're overlooking Electrical to support a huge system. If you want something that will kill, get two Fi BTL's with DVC2 coils. Then purchase 2 Incriminator Audio 40.1's. Then you'll need a 200-250 amp alternator along with two stout batteries (look into the Powermaster D3100) for rear electrical support. You'll also need to upgrade the front stage.. because once the subs go in, you'll hear nothing out of the front speakers. But that's another post.

Nothing is close yet. The prototype isn't done either. A single 3000D should be plenty on the ICON's. Especially if you're upgrading your electrical to support the sundown below 1 ohm. 900wrms per ICON x 4 = 3600w. We all know the SAZ-3000D does more than that at .5 ohms.

He didn't, muddybass just assumed.

Firstly, Welcome to SSA! Make sure to stop by the Newb intro forum to let us know who you are. Secondly, "loud but not too loud" Wow, thanks for giving us enough information to make a recommendation of equipment to you. What type of car do you have? How much space will you give up for the box? how loud do you want to go? Are you doing anything with your front speakers? Do you care how it sounds? Try to put a little more thought into your posts.

Maybe one SE on that power... definitely not two.

Tuning higher may increase output, generally it does. You gotta think of the power you don't have either. The RL-p's are probably laughing at 1200w.

hahahaha damn he came FLYING out of that hole