johnecon2001

It should be close to 4kW, based upon other numbers from competitors.

What amp is the one you have right now? Are the W0's ported or sealed? Changing little things in your current install are probably better for you than just getting new subs since you don't want to change your amp.

You need to start by isolating the problem. First, disconnect the RCA's from the amp. Do all the signs you just told us about still happen? If they don't you have a problem with the RCA's or the Head Unit. If the problems are still there, its the amp. Moving on... Second, plug the RCA's back into the amp and unplug them from the Head unit. Do the problems still persist? If they don't, you can rule out the RCA's being the problem. Its the Head Unit. Report back here.

Here's a chart to help with the color code and Identifying what resistors you need:

did you measure the resistance on the coil(s) yet?

The orange wire with the strip... just connect it to the power lead (switched power). Viola dash lights.

Acidburn has speakers that he built that get decently low without a sub as well. I think you should still do a sub, but limit it to extreme low end duty. 20hz-50hz at the most.

lol i'll put my money he only double baffled so the flares could clear from the floor hehe, you're probably right, but it looks great either way. I like the side view that shows the woofers and the port so much, I'd almost consider putting a piece of Lexan on that side if it was my box.

Go find you some Image Dynamic EQ's.

I'm pretty sure ESR only really applies if a bunch of caps are used in a set. Like in an amp. Either way, the fact of the matter is it doesn't hold a large enough charge long enough to help for more than a second when you system needs the power.

Are the Tang Bands ported?

Were your last subs ported or sealed? Its possible that you'll be louder.. but you'll never know until you install it.

I wouldn't worry personally about what colors they light up. Especially if it's LED lighting. You can change the diodes rather easy with some basic soldering skills. I would look for something with the highest controllable bands possible for your install. 7, and lord knows 5, isn't going to cut it.

Yours looks really nice, not a big fan of the full wall in the bosses place, but whatever!

Don't make me ban you.

You really got your answer in the first reply. You can trust that guy, honest.

I would say the 200a would be fine with one stout battery under the hood for that little power. And even that is still overkill. Even if you had an amplifier that was 100% efficient (which no one does), you would have to be hitting that full 2400w @ 12v to pull a full 200a. I'd guess you'll only realistically need 180a at the most.

Does going in on purpose count? I do a lot of off roading, and ditches are fun!

300a seems a bit excessive for 2400w.

ONE OTHER THING DUDE,,,,,,when you hook an amplifier up if it is 600 watts......by your adjusting the gains you aren't getting anymore JUICE DUDE///// you will be adjusting that 600 watts you have if its a quality RMS amplifier.....its does the power ratings contiuously......no matter the gain...and thats a good thing No it doesn't. Go read about how amplifiers work plz. kthxbye.

Go with the SSD and port to something in the high 30's. Try 38hz. You'll need to get a Dual 1 ohm sub.

You need either 4 ohms or 1 ohm... soooo I'd say start looking for a one channel amp that can hit the full spectrum of ohm loads rather than a two channel amp that only does the power you need at 4 ohms bridged.

14 gauge is a little heavy. Unless thats what you already have, I'd go with 16awg.

RTFM=Read The Fuckin Manual

That's technically not Tri-mode. Tri-mode is much more complicated and involves the use of a passive crossover network. You're just running two channels bridged two channels not. If you have 4 RCA inputs, you'll be fine.