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johnecon2001

SSA Regular
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Everything posted by johnecon2001

  1. LOL ESX is no longer in business.
  2. The computer will be fine. The alternator and what size pulley you get determines output voltage on most honda's. The thing you will be pissed about is where the alt is located. IIRC it's on the back of the engine on the drivers side. More towards the bottom of the motor than anything else.
  3. Thank you for providing a great product along with superb customer support.
  4. awww crayup. Number 6 I am.
  5. Parts Express has a handheld one.. but its kinda pricey. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=320-290
  6. Regardless of your excuses.. its a dumb idea. Maybe you shouldn't have tinted that dark then?
  7. Ahh yes. That should be sufficient.
  8. Yeah... that's what the remote turn on is for. What you're doing works. But if the deck has the option, unless it really is broken (which I doubt) that's what you should be using.
  9. Which amp do you have again?
  10. I'd put money on an internal setting on the alpine not being on. Perhaps something to do with the remote turn on lead. Go read the manual.
  11. What car is going to fit 18 Sealed 15" SSD's? Are you using the minimum space specs? ouch.
  12. Ehhh the news isn't good dude. The manual is discontinued from Alpine. Meaning, not even PAC parts can get it. So your only hope is, in fact, for someone to scan the pages for you.. or for you to find it on ebay.
  13. Not even that, true HID lights have a ballast that has to ignite the lamp that has warm up upon first start. They don't get to their peak brightness until 6-9 seconds later. Using them as backup lights is worthless, because you have to wait longer to see better.
  14. LOL @ HID back up lights.
  15. Try and keep the language you would have used at CA.com... AT CA.com. We don't want it here. Enjoy your stay.
  16. Clipping is pretty hard to hear if you don't know what to listen for. At the very least you should set your gains with a DMM.
  17. Link us then my boy.
  18. Yes to the sandpaper, maybe to the "jumping it". Don't ghetto rig anything yet. Lets try and track down the problem first. Are you positive the main power wire is getting power? Have you tested it with a DMM yet? Make sure the amp ground is on clean bare metal and TIGHT. Next, check the remote turn on lead from the HU. Is it getting power? It should have at least 12volts on it when the car is on. Report back here after you have done those things.
  19. Every head unit comes with a "mounting sleeve" or cage. It might already be on the deck and you just need to pull up the tabs so that it stays in the mounting bracket.
  20. Agreed. I was fortunate enough to get into a house with such a room, so 7.1 is quite fun. But if this is a relatively normal dwelling (see; 1000-1700sq.ft.), 5.1 is probably a much better option. Of course you might not have a choice. Most of the newer receivers are either 6.1 or 7.1 now. But don't let that stop you. Most of them have 5.1 modes so you don't have to worry about buying and setting up extra speakers.
  21. The phase knob flips the polarity on the output of the amp from positive out of the positive and negative out of the negative to the exact opposite of that. Using spare speaker wire for a jumper is fine. Just make sure the connection is nice and tight.
  22. Hope you got shields with them. And bluer = noober. Real HID's are as white as possible.
  23. ouch, a new board for that is NOT going to be cheap.
  24. It's on bishes. Add me now, we be playing
  25. We'll need to play some social matches and then get a team assembled to take on the masses.

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