johnecon2001

double post. See below.

Sundown Please.

No doubt, I have bins of these in all sizes because they're so cheap and effective.

That's wholesale pricing folks. Grab em up.

i think it sould depend on the vechile because some have all aluminon uni bodys etc but the one thing that i did hear is that with a negtive ground run you have a better chance of getting a ground loop. That's not really true as far as the mythical ground loop goes. It might happen if you had bad connections. But length of wire will have nothing to do with it. It does honestly depend on the body of the car though if you should run seperate grounds or not. Take a DMM and attach one lead to the positive of the battery and then attach one lead to your prospective ground point. Measure in Ohms. It should read as close to 0 ohms as possible. After you measure the chassis resistance run a piece of wire the length of the vehicle and then measure resistance off of it. Which ever is closest to 0 ohms is the grounding method you should use.

That amp might be a little weak for the Havoc. You could probably sell it no problem, or trade it for something that will do what the Havoc wants at 1 ohm. Or even 4 ohms.

saweeeet. Sundowns are pimp

You might want to bow out on the backside more to compensate for the speaker on the front.

That would be good. It'd be just like running to the stock battery. Make sure to fuse on both ends though since the wire is so long.

I swear to christ. You just will never learn.

Minimum of 2 runs per batt. Hopefully Jacob will pipe up here and give you Current draw on the 3000D's. I know its a ton.

You're not looking for Loud Sound Quality with 6x9's. You're looking for SPL. You need to get a better front stage than some coaxials for LSQ.

I'm not sure "Great" is an adjective I would use to describe Lanzar products post 1996. The VHC line is superior to the Opti line, and older stuff is FAR superior to anything made today. And yes, the "Vibe" line is crap. You should do some research on current Lanzar's. Sure the ratings on the Heritage, MAX, and Vibrant are a little inflated, but the Vibe puts out rated power, and the Opti is a SOLID line. It's because of the other crappy lines that Lanzar sells that cause people to be confused with how good some of the amps are. 80's and 90's Lanzar's were made by Zed, early 90's they dropped Zed. But the Opti's continued with the quality boards. And before you try to come back with an argument, the Opti2000D puts out 1900wrms @ .5 ohms 14.4v. They also handle voltages from 12v through 16v. Stock. No mods. Doesn't sound like a bad amp to me.

Oh god yes. At least two runs for each amp.

what is your eventual goal with this system?

Considering RMS is 1kW, 1.5kW should be sufficient to get them moving.

The Opti's are all great amps, the Vibes just barely put out rated power.

Nice score! Get some real subs in there (hehe) and see what happens!

Who cares what it sounds like outside the car. Music in car is supposed to be for people in the car.

No doubt. A good ground is just as important as a good power wire.

If you want the most from the amps, than yes, DVC2 is what you want.

They're on the same level of quality as the other Bling Bling amps. Audiobahn and the like. Steer clear my friend. There are MUCH better amplifiers out there.

Did you get any options on the BTL? You might want to look into increasing your power before trying other unknown speakers. You might also want to look into your install and electrical system as well. I've heard of the Exiles doing very well off of higher voltage systems. So if you have massive voltage drops right now, you can expect a poor score. Why not list off your entire system and what upgrades you have done?

That door flex is insane.

What he said.