johnecon2001

You're looking at the BL's though. The BTL is Fi's most efficient woofer. In the right box... this could do some serious damage to your car

4awg - 80-150A 1/0awg - 200-350A

Perhaps try one 15 Ported. Not to mention, you had two crappy Type R's in a sealed box. Putting one BL15 in a ported box is going to blow your mind.

If you get a kit, it should come with the fuse.

You're not being to clear with your question..

Downsize the setup then.

1500w to 3000w is a huge change to the human ear.

Was there a problem with putting them in the trunk that I missed? Subs and sub box in the back seat is just plain GHETTO.

What type of box are you looking at for each setup?

Should be around 11"

Could always go the Zapco route too with that amp that has the onboard digital processing. Not an ideal situation, but certainly another option.

Hopefully you'll be running those speakers active then.. I don't know a whole lot of guys that use or win with passive component sets.

not relly on the same car and wirings but speakers and HU are the same. Im simply basing it from the learnings and experiences i got from Home Audio. Just not sure dude if it really dosent apply anymore to car audio. im guessing that the differences i got from the sound would be from the slopes used in the amps mention, namely 12db on the DLS and i think 18db on the audison... assuming that 12db crossover solpe tends to gove a warmer sound or have mo mids and lower end on it...? A difference of 6dB on the slope will simply let more of the audio you are trying to remove into the speakers. It shouldn't discolor the sound to the point where things sound "warmer". That sounds more like something in the converters is messing around with the sound.

You could add the BP option if you want.. but that amp won't put out 2600w. You'll want Dual 1 voice coils for a final 1 ohm load.

Pretty much.

That would be the one..

I doubt your amps will survive long on a stock alternator and two yellow tops. You definitely have enough space for either setup, with that tuning though, two 18" BTL's would be the most impressive.

Does the 6 stand for the inches it will be? Nice size though, I could use that in my install.

SD-1v2's, E8's and a pre-order on Z15's

If you bought your current subs at circuit city, I'm guessing you bought your box there too. If you did, perhaps building a new box for your subs would be all you need to achieve a louder sound. Those prefab boxes are junk.

counld you elaborate on this more vladd to help enlighten me? i just want to understand... as far as what i have experienced, the DLS amps tends to sound warmer compared to the audison on the same speakers i heard. focal V1. but the audison tends to give out a more detailed top end? Gross... Amplifiers should do nothing more than their namesake. Amplify things. I don't want my amps changing the way things sound..

Perhaps explaining to us your space would be good... We don't do this vs that questions here because they're pretty stupid to be blunt. Everything is relative, and there are too many variables to be able to tell you what will "hit" harder.

We're done here. Take a chill pill

Any amp can do active. The SAX-100.4D simply has crossovers on board making it so you don't have to run an external unit.

Also... an "SQ" system has a helluva a lot more to do with the front stage, processing and deadening than the sub. I have to agree with that ! Last thing I would worry about in an sq system is the subwoofer. A crapload more work goes into the front stage.. top 5 sq SUBS not front stage And? He said he wanted an SQ system, and the sub counts for about 5% there.