johnecon2001

Try making your design here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/index.php/boxtools

Perhaps the IA Death Penalty or the Ascendant Audio Havoc

Any idea what the stock alternator produces amperage wise? And you'll need to give us an idea how the 3000D will be wired... because if you plan on running that thing at 8 ohms.. you'll be fine

You'll have to send it back to Fi. It has to be demagnetized to be repaired. Unless you have the proper equipment to do that, I wouldn't try to fix it on your own.

oh you too.

What don't you like about the W6's that has you wanting to move on? Just for reference's sake, the W6 is seen more as an SQ woofer where the BL is a ground pounder that sounds ok. Certainly not in the same class as far as quality of sound and power handling go.

If you haven't already upgraded your stock battery, I would do that first.

What kind of space do you have for the sub? Exact measurements please. Also, what does your front stage consist of? Blending with the sub is certainly a major issue to sounding good. And lastly, your budget is enough to buy the amp. Not amp + woofer.

The Soundsplinter RL-i 8 is around that size, a little taller. It'll handle 500w, but it doesn't need that much. It wants around .5^3ft sealed.

It doesn't have USB and that was one of your needs.

wtf is wrong with your pants/shorts?

We need to change and/or delete that tutorial, there is a lot of misinformation in there... Write up a new one! Just make it n00b friendly.

Sounds like a good plan

Three amps just doesn't work. You'd have to drop two subs. Either wire four subs to each 1500D at .5 ohms, or sell both 1500D's and buy a 3000D and run it at 1 ohm.

Because they won't do it. I'm sure Nick or Scott can elaborate further, but from past posts asking about W6 recones, they will flat out tell you "no, go to JL".

We're going to need to know what impedance your subs are. But I can already tell you're attempting to make this more complicated.. Just run one large amp.

Indeed, but they are even more expensive. Cheaper ones that I find somewhat appealing are as follows Alpine AVH-P5000DVD Clarion VRX585USB Kenwood KVT-719DVD Another option is the Alpine IVA-D105, but you'll need the KCA-620M USB Adapter.

iirc, recones from JL are stupid expensive for the W7

Please read our gain setting tutorial for tips on how to set your amp up correctly. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=3704&st=0

Tripod sir. Canon's have great white balances, if you can, shoot in RAW format so you can mess with the files later.

Be bored on new topics then. Not 6 month old ones.

I'll say it again (although saying it in two threads is silly).. if you want even sound you need to go sealed. Another thing you said is that you're not hitting the higher notes (up to 60hz). This is midbass territory. Time to upgrade your front stage to fill in the frequency gaps.

Honestly.. the thing that's hurting you the most is not knowing your resonant frequency of your car and tuning close to it. 31hz is going to be hard to get good numbers on.

Well certain subs do better in certain enclosures. I'd say 7 times out of 10, the ported will be louder though. It is a little hard to generalize seeing as there are so many variables to consider. You could always sell the 15" Q and go with a couple of 10" Q's or ICON's.

Tubes in car audio... lol. I'd expect them to either not last long due to vibration, or to need constant recalibration. Specifically in class A amps.