johnecon2001

What's your budget for electrical components to support the amps? You need to go measure your usable space as well

That would be my guess as well. Just as an example, Copper prices PLUMMETED recently to almost 20% of what they were last year.

http://cdn1.ustream.tv/swf/4/viewer.45.swf?cid=317016

Either of those would be a fine choice, based off of your music selection.

Locking this, because you got your answer.

Don't yell, in particular when you are wrong. well im just saying that if you wanna come here, i will prove you wrong...stop acting cocky, and get your ass over here to feel like a dumbass, better yet, i dont even want replies from you, please dont give me any....just fudge off, and go to what you think sounds better Watch your attitude son, or I will remove you from this forum.

1994-1997 have the same Engines. And the same location for alternators. The USDM Accord never came with an H22.

How about a link to the rest of your equipment? Sounds like you need a new receiver though.

The alternator is a BITCH to get to. Take off the drivers front wheel and it'll be on the bottom/back of the engine.

I agree with option two as well. You should also spend quite a bit of time preparing your doors for those speakers. Just running active alone isn't enough to ensure better sound.

Obviously, adding a higher output alternator would be ideal. But you should be fine for now.

What does the copper coil option do? Does it make the sub more efficient? yes, and makes it less likely to "peak". It also increases power handling. It actually decreases power handling.. The flatwind option increases it.

450w per driver would sound fine. I'd also add the copper coil option to them.

I just find out about the compatibility issue, but about the imprint I think it will be usefull to achieve the sq tha I'm looking for, don't you think? Well.. I'm not sure what you're looking for SQ wise.. but no. I don't think it will help you achieve any results without first tending to how you plan on installing the drivers and what sound deadening you'll be applying to the car.

I don't believe the H701 is compatible with the 505. Gotta go back down to the 205 to use it. That imprint stuff is mostly a gimmick anyway. With proper deadening, placement of speakers and gain settings.. you do everything it would do. And you'll sound better to boot.

http://www.quickcar.net/tools/tl_ic.html Home Depot carries them too. Saw one the other day.

Seems the logical option here would be to wire them in Parallel>Series. Four tweets per channel. Wire two in parallel to 1.5Ω a set, then wire two sets in series to 3Ω.

I wouldn't be concerned with a line driver adding noise in your subs.. you'll never hear it.

Got a measuring tape? Go measure your stock battery.

There isn't one, because they give you recommended sizes and tunes and expect you to do what's best to fit that into your vehicle. And because we have this: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/index.php/boxtools Go nuts.

A 200A alternator would be a good thing to look into to deliver full and proper performance from the SAZ3KD. Barring that however, you could upgrade your underhood battery to something beefier and add a couple of extra batteries in the rear.

The size of the subwoofer has NOTHING to do with how it sounds. If he wanted low lows, he should have gone with the Q and put it in a sealed box. But since he has the BTL.. I doubt he's looking to go down low.

Electrically speaking, this ^ would be correct. But since it's connected to a resistive load.. that math is not accurate.

Quite a few good reviews on that deck. To me.. Jensen has always been a fairly cheap company though, so if you want quality.. I'd head to Alpine or Eclipse territory.

That was Jordan (Godsmack). He had 4 10 inchers in the back. Lean and mean. And to the OP... you need to actually go and measure your usable space.. telling us what car you have isn't helpful as we probably don't own that car.