johnecon2001

Thought being, shorter grounds = less resistance. Which is difficult in unibody cars, where running a ground directly right to the battery will most likely be a lower resistance than running through the frame.

You need one fuse for each size of wire. 250-300a for the 1/0awg, 80-150a for the 4awg, and 50-80a for the 8awg.

I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering WTF an "ext dime" is.

How much space are you willing to sacrifice and what is your overall goal with your system?

The BL would be a better choice for you in the 32-35hz tuned box.

olllld. saw that forever ago

8awg will fit the BTL terminals. As far as replacing them.. I don't see the need. Not like the terminals will be moving, push ones are fine.

Either will work fine.

I'm assuming it's a demo wall and serves no other purpose? Because that's just ridiculous.

I personally hate that Behringer amplifier. Soo noisy, even as a sub amp.

That speaker sounds blown.

Siiiiiickk

You can mix and match just fine.

A dual 2 ohm sub can be ran at either 1 ohm or 4 ohms.

That amp would be good for about nothing. How about a budget. That would help figure out what you can afford.

You'll want to look for an amp that produces 700-1kW @ 1 or 4 ohms.

You left out a little information..

I would just get the DVC1 woofer. If you have a stout electrical, the 3000D will be fine at .5 ohms.

You forgot one:

Whew, math is hard!

Just because the casing looks similar, doesn't mean it's the same battery internally.

lol, you're going to recone your subwoofer everytime you go to a competition?

I'd go with 3^3ft @ 35hz and call it a day. That's after displacement as well. Use an external aero port if you need the space. A single 4" should be fine.

I'd be interested to see what a little polyfill does for your low end response. Feel like testing that out??

Could try using an external port.