johnecon2001

How much room do you have? Might have to go to something like a 4ch amp + a 2ch amp

Can we hope to see PM in the SSA store?

Yeah... Or SSA could add some image hosting. That gallery link at the top of the page isn't just for show..

Discount code, for when you pay with paypal 10% off.

Seriously Aaron? That's HOT.

4awg should be fine.

Probably be better off wiring them to 2 ohms. Several people have mentioned they don't need hardly any power to get going.

Depends on what ohm load you plan on running it until you get your real power wire.

Have you tried rebuilding your box? I'll bet most people could do better with that woofer and that power with a more efficient box design.

D3's are actually pretty cheap right now, especially since the F series replaced them and Pioneer offering the $200 rebate. Why wouldn't you get a touchscreen for SQ? How you control the unit has nothing to do with how it sounds.

for 8^3ft, 2 4" ports should be fine. If he goes to 2x 6", the length nearly triples. If you're worried about port noise, then do 3x 4" flared at 10.48"

PSP calculator 2 4" flared aero ports 6.34" long will give you 32hz.

Definitely do the MaxxLink. That's a sweet little box for signal distribution.

You want more bass, yet you're a sealed box man. Contradictory statements my friend. It's time to learn how to build a ported box.

Might as well just get a refurbed AVIC-D3 for that budget.

Box is plenty big, and port sounds good.

Could always have Autozone load test the batteries and the alternator too. They do this for free and then you'll be able to tell exactly which batt is bad.

Advantages of the Q over a company that lies and has the absolute worst customer service on the planet? Gee, I can't think of any.

What does your current box look like? A simple redesign may be all you need.

It really has no effect. The universal gap is the Dual 2 gap as well.

What car?

Does the diamond look like that?

I'd vote for a DVC1 SSD with the Flatwind coil option.

Model numbers of the subs and the amps would help. You just basically led us into a room, turned off the lights and explained your problem.

First things first, if you're going to do a dedicated battery system, you won't be needing the cap - you wouldn't need it even with out the battery, but thats another discussion... You'll want to look into an isolator to let the alternator charge both batteries, but only use one to run the car electrical and one for the Audio electrical.