mrray13

i've been thinking about a 10/22 in .17hmr. just to have one. doesn't look like a damascus barrel, don't see the "twist" in the steel, though i know in later ones, that might not be as prevalant. IIRC, damascus also went away right after intro of smokeless as it can't handle the pressures of smokeless. and sean, are you calling me a neck? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

if you've never fired it before, i'd recommend nothing more then 2 1/2", no7 or 8 dove/pheasant or lighter load. if you can find 2", shoot that. better safe then sorry. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

http://www.tcarms.com/firearms/mzModernInline.php that's what i bought for mini me yesterday, the stainless version in the kit. (scroll down to see the kit) $149, i'm pumped, lol. can't wait to feel the thump again! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

yeah, neil...lol...i read that and thought WTF?? the sx is on very sexy driver. as far as the cooling on the motor, that's the first i've seen with the holes on the outer rim going into the gap itself. just how efficient is that? is it better then the pole vent? remember, i'mno purveryor of highend mid drivers, or anything for that matter, lol. matt, that old hammer gun is sweet. i'm sure you know this, but you're jsut going to shoot low brass light loads correct? and is that a stevens? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

when you first posted this problem, both amps were turned on by the h/u. when you disconnected the jl and ran it direct to the battery, the issue was fixed. hence, my very first reply...the issue lies in the fact your h/u, when both amps are hooked up to it, can't supply enough turn on current for both amps. you have since bypassed the issue with your rememdy. so, that leaves you a couple of choices... 1) keep your system as it is, as it's working. 2)spend $300 on an alternator,hook yoru turn on wires back up to your h/u and be right back where you were 3)spend $300 on an alternator, hook your turn on wire back up to the h/u WITH the relay in line as posted above and fix all of your issues. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

very nice pad sean! i've got to get up there and see it in person! ryan2, how much do you think you'll want for those? jsut bought the boy a .50cal tc muzzleloader. last years model, with a starter kit, $149. stainless steel barrel, inline, can use no 11cap, 209 primers or musketcaps. i'm bumped!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

next year, a 08 camaro will find it's way into my garage courtesy of the trailblazer leaving. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

was there ever a point to drinking? otherwise, how's it going ryan1? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

wow, i played the trumpet for 6 years and don't have a clue who those guys are. shit, there is still a trumpet in the house which i pick up every now and again to help the boy out. he's a drummer 1st and trumpetier last. i whoop his ass on the horn though, lol, he kills me with the snare. (it's too cool listening to him play) anyway, nice to see someone who really knows music around here (hehe) and the second pic is cool. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

sounds like a plan. i'll pm you some other questions so as not to hijack this thread. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

you're going to connect pin 30 to the positive post of the yellowtop with 10g, pin 85 with 10g to the negative post. pin 86 will be 12g coming from your headunit and pin 87 will be a pair of 12g wires, one going to each amp. 87a is not used. that's how ya do it. be sure to get a large enough relay to support the current draw of the rf and the jl. and that should fix your problem. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

ok, i'll try this one more time and then you can spend your money on an alternator that isn't going to solve the problem. if it's happening because of the remote wire, then it's due to the fact your HEADUNIT can't support both the jl and the much larger then the old sub amp you had rockford. the rockford is just taking too much of the current at higher volumes then the last amp. you need to a single strand of 12g remote wire to a relay in back by the yellow top. then you need to wire the yellow top to the relay using 10g and then split your turn on leads from the relay to teh amps, again using 12g. the extra current provided by the yellow top should allow the amps to stay on at full tilt. i'll try and dig up a diagram to help explain it. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

damn captain....got you busy,eh? i need something to help me lose this damn gut. i'm toning up nicely, but can't seem to rid myself of the middle age spread. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

vj has gotten a chill pill. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

off i go to the three S's and then work... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

mines better as well, lol. though i still lack in the midbass department, the ICON does sound good! a road trip up north is in order. gotta check out the new crib and get a ride in that beemer, weather permitting. anyway..... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i've got those alums from PE....i might try that. by shallow slope, your referring to say a 6db per octave cutoff vs a 24db octave one, correct? just want to clarify, be being who i am and all, lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ weird sq guy, who's fullsize xcab truck rocked with just a single rl-i8!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

and they are by excalibur, sorry. lol. either one is $75 per set. can be found here... http://www.grips4guns.com/pistol/colt/gov1911.html wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Every time I beat on my Chevy something breaks. Wasn't that way with the ole F150. i've never broken anything on my silverado, though it has had to go in for service twice. but times dealing with that stupid auto 4wd switch bullshit. even ones with a lever in the floor just activate a stupid electronic switch. i want my mechanical linkage and lockout hubs back!! if you could break that, you did something!! and that's pimpin! i just mistyped something and thought of tom..lol.. IMPIN!!! for those who roll those bubble ss's.... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

me likely too!!! also, the wood target style wraparound grips i was mentioning are by badger, are are under $100. i'll get you a link later. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

going from smaller boxes to larger boxes affects transient response due to the larger volume allowing the subs suspension to work a little more freely. larger boxes increases efficiency, decreases power handling and helps to strengthen the bottom end by allowing the sub to move more. larger boxes can tend to be muddy on faster stuff due to that. smaller enclosures by nature tighten up the sound due to the fact the sub can't move as much when compard to a larger box with the same power. add more power and the sub starts to move more. what the box is tuned to doesn't have a direct effect on transient response. however, port size, could, at least to the ear. if the port is too small and tuned to low, you'll choke airflow and that can cause a feew issues. since you like techno/trance, i'd suggest the 35hz tuning and go a bit on the smaller size for enclosure. lowend will suffer a bit, but it should be punchy as hell. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

here's a quick, no intelligent, bassheads view.. in subwoofers, i've never been able to tell the difference in sound between cone materials. meaning, without being at a clipping level, all subs sounded the same, no including transient response, ability to drop and output. in midranges and midbass, teh same holds true. only in tweeters can i tell a difference in materials used. and if under high power, IMO, textile based and metallic tweeters tend to resemble each other. i've heard silks as harsh as titaniums. but i've never heard ti's as warm as silks under lower power levels. again, no scientific reasons or explainations, just a basshead's obsevations. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

movement? hmmm. i'm really thinking about those wood wraparounds, they even have them with thumbrest/ target style. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

if you can't find a major you like, maybe you're shooting too high. go for a captian....or a lieutenant. hehe wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee There are some lieutenants I sure like around here... My tires break loose every time it rains around here There's a hill going up to my apartment, every time there's more than a few hours of rain I'll feel the rear end start to spin out on me.alas, nothing military at all (or any kind of uniformed personel) worth looking at. batcave doing burnouts? we need vids!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee