Booming Lex

Sorry did not mean to raise a post from the dead.

Was the amp used when your friend got it or new? Was the amp screwed to the subwoofer box? Disconnet the speaker wire and turn the amp on and see if it still goes into protect mode. Then disconnet the rca cables?

This Box belongs to a board member on SMD. Thought I share since it has a custom paint job also.

Beauty is in the eyer of the beholder. In this case he must have dirt in his eye. Just F ing with ya man.

I traced the problem to chitty voltage. I hooked up my friends dekas to my system... and damn. It was like night and day. Voltage went up to 14.3 idle to 12.9 lowest. Amp stayed cooled after 15 min of bumping and I did not have to turn the volume up so much. Thanks guys for all the help.

Extra

But I usually do my bumping and testing around 8pm. I think I will change out the optima and add two xs power batteries. Still waiting on my alt. I know that will be a big help.

Dual 4

yup

Yeah, I was thinking that I was starving the amp. After it takes power to make power. Has far has batteries are concern I can only limit myself to two batteries and I think no more than 800 cubic inches in size (Usaci Rules).

Sorry.... 1 ohm

I have had my my 3000d since Feb. back when I was pushing a pair(2) of 12'' L7s. I never got hot. Just recently I have changed my subs to a pair(2) of 15'' DD 9500. Now my amp get hot. It went thermal once. I have the gain set at alittle over a half. Bass Boost to zero, Phase to zero, and subsonic all the way down. What would cause my amp to heat up? Do my subs need more power? Am I not giving my amp enough power? I still have a stock alt at the moment(I ordered a bigger alt with 200 amps). Two retop optimas. One has the main starting and the other in the trunk. I already did the big three. Any suggestions would really help. Thanks.

Its cool it doesn't bother me. Everyone has there right to their own opinion and to choose what they want to own.

First all $800.00 is retail. I paid a no where near that. I just paid a few bucks more than a BTL, from a authorized DD dealer.

True. But if you are going to spend almost $500.00 on a subwoofer it would be nice to have a little assurance. But to each his own. I am not bashing Fi by any means. Its just one thing I don't agree with. I just sleep better a night knowing that my pair of subs have some kind of written warranty.

After much comparing and thinking. I went ahead with Digital Designs 9500s. Thanks for all the input.

I was about to place a order for a pair of BTLs until I read the warranty info "WHAT IS NOT COVERED? This warranty is valid only if the product is used for the purpose for which it was designed. *DUE TO THE EXTREME NATURE OF ITS INTENDED USAGE, THE BTL SERIES OF SUBWOOFERS HAS NO WARRANTY COVERAGE (outside of arriving in proper working condition after shipping)" So if I want a sub with warranty coverage I have to choose a lower line like the BLs?

Thanks. I was just waiting on a reply. Now in about 2 min I will be a new Fi owner.

Ok I think I found the answer http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_c...sp?Q=2&I=12

Has the title states, how do I get a 1 ohm load with 2 btls? My first previous subs where dual4 so I wired them in parallel. Do I need dual1 ohm? If so how do I wire them? Thanks.

Do I really need the Hixmcoil option on a 15" Btl? It states that if u use the sub for daily bumping then Fi suggest that option. But if u must have it for daily bumping then should the Hixmcoil be standard/stock instead of a option(If you choose daily option)?

Will a pair of 15" FI BL's with the cooling and flatwind option surive being pushed by a SAZ-3000D? The subs will be loaded in my old sub box wich is 4.5 cu ft per chamber tuned to 35hz. Or maybe I should look into the btl's?

Well hells yeah. Best part there is no leads to bust , just direct wiring to the coil? What size gauge is that by the way?

Do the adioques have a cooling feature like the option u can get with Fi?

x2 I was just thinking asking someone for some Sundown Wallpaper.