Julian

I'll be down in Tucson soon maybe. Going to the base? Gonna visit girl I went to BMT with... Cool, cool. We'll have to meet up if you come out. Yeah man deff Tryin' to figure if I want to drive or fly.. pretty cheap flights.

I'll be down in Tucson soon maybe. Going to the base? Gonna visit girl I went to BMT with... Cool, cool. We'll have to meet up if you come out. Yeah man deff Tryin' to figure if I want to drive or fly.. pretty cheap flights.

I'll be down in Tucson soon maybe. Going to the base? Gonna visit girl I went to BMT with... Cool, cool. We'll have to meet up if you come out. Yeah man deff Tryin' to figure if I want to drive or fly.. pretty cheap flights.

I'll be down in Tucson soon maybe. Going to the base? Gonna visit girl I went to BMT with...

Jesus fucking Christ people should not be "tattoo artists"

Contact the police where he lives

I would have to agree fully.

That's what I meant by splitting, especially around the hole for the sub.

so 13 ply is a default or something you have to look for bass??? Not really 9-13 ply will work Just the numbers of wood/layers But know birch is not as acoustically dense as MDF (hence the weight difference) If you have a lumbar yard locally I would look for Trupan Light or MDF light which is considerably lighter than regular MDF and not as rough on your tools. I remember the thread you had about trupan.. I never looked into it since I had someone build the last enclosure for me... your old thread: http://www.soundsolu...6-trupan-light/ Maaan that's old! Yeah, I haven't got to use Trupan yet, but I just normally get MDF... If you are seriously worried about weight Trupan IMO is the best alternative. Birch is good and all but it is REALLY prone to splitting. I would suggest going to a lumbar yard.. stuff is super cheap.. I know I can get 1" MDF for maybe 15-25 for a 4x8 sheet of MDF.

so 13 ply is a default or something you have to look for bass??? Not really 9-13 ply will work Just the numbers of wood/layers But know birch is not as acoustically dense as MDF (hence the weight difference) If you have a lumbar yard locally I would look for Trupan Light or MDF light which is considerably lighter than regular MDF and not as rough on your tools.

ALWAYS wire the positives FIRST then the ground, it will be less likely to spark

I'll be down in Tucson soon maybe.

Still just a Korean board

Even though T3 is out of business PE is blowing their stuff out, http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=269-087 12" 400w RMS isn't bad Not sure of the recommended enclosure specs, but you could probably stuff your box. Yeah, I can't seem to find any box specs on them but I'm sure they're out there somewhere. The only thing I'm not sure on is the cutout diameter. I think they are just a little too big to fit and my last attempt to enlarge a cutout was an extreme fail. Well if it is too big you can always just cut a new faceplate and make it in to an adapter plate. you could always try to invert it too.

Damn you... mine wouldnt post! Great minds think alike...

Even though T3 is out of business PE is blowing their stuff out, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-087 12" 400w RMS isn't bad Not sure of the recommended enclosure specs, but you could probably stuff your box.

I like 2.4L V8's that are crazy fast I thought I was the only F1 fan here. 2.4L V8? Damn, I always see v8's are always huge like.. 4L+

Might as well ask, what SSA Sub's are those?

nope

Actually unless there is stock at the warehouse they are made to order... That's why I said they usually keep stock. Never said they didn't ever get the subs hand built to order. Skimming FTL But the video i posted will give a general overview on the whole process.

Actually unless there is stock at the warehouse they are made to order, each sub is machined, magnetized and put together by hand. this is a general overview how all subs are made.