Julian

You would not be able to wire down to .66 you're options are 1.34, 3 or a 12 ohm load. Whomever told you you would reach .66 was wrong. I was only able to get down to .66 with dual 2's and 6 of them. Thats why he said he has (3) dual 4 ohm drivers and not (3) dual 2 ohm drivers, with (3) dual 4 ohm drivers 0.66 ohm load is possible along with a 2.67 ohm load. I would personally rather wire to 1.34 ohms instead of .66.. you won't notice between .66 and 1.34.. just less potential stress on your electrical.

Thanks for the info, don't know 100% he has purchased yet. We have been communicating by e-mail. If not, my new one will be here in a few days, I'll sell you/him mine for a good price!

Oh well man, do i believe that companies buy governments? of course, but hell. Idk

It's probably those pesky pesky Romanians

NWO etc etc ? Yep

That's what I was thinking, to start off plunging into an active setup with a simple 2 way setup. As you had previously mentioned about an active 2 way using a pro audio style midbass, are there any that you would suggest as a starting point? I would like to keep to the off axis that I currently have due to the fact that I have yet to find anyone that would sell me some stock OEM doors. As for a budget i would say $200 total for just the midbass/tweeter, the 100.4 would come at a later point. Would the 100.4 render a good enough x-over to start? I would like to keep my present headunit, which is soon to be an AVH-P4300DVD. As a starting point I was looking into the Selenium 6W4P. It meets my budget requirements and is a 6" mid. As this is a first for me, I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking for in terms of specifications. as far as I know looking into the frequency response is a key detail. As far as specs for the Selenium 6W4P 80-9,000 Hz, but the vas is very low at 0.28 ft^3 which would indicate it would perform well in an IB setup? <-- clueless as what to look for while understanding T/S parameters.

Oh, puke. Again, really??? If you read above you'd realize that BEFORE it fell off the adhesive had detiorated and basically failed. With no adhesive you get NO deadening. As for the multiple layers, you are constraining surface motion of the surface you bond to. If there is a layer in between how do you expect it to constrain it? Sort of like wearing a plastic glove and washing your hands with soap, do your hands get clean? No, the soap doesn't touch your hand so it doesn't work. Same process applies. Its a complete shit product with BS advertising. Makes me sick that people buy into it and believe they are getting something that is cheaper and works. It may be cheaper, but its a waste of money. That's like saying "I smoke meth, I've yet to have a bad experience... *scratch scratch*".

Man people are crazy.

more so than that.

You would not be able to wire down to .66 you're options are 1.34, 3 or a 12 ohm load. Whomever told you you would reach .66 was wrong. I was only able to get down to .66 with dual 2's and 6 of them.

Why? Are they designed with more reserve capacity since they'll be supplying more amperage to make the same power as a 16v battery with less amperage? Correct, You will need many more batteries to compensate, I have a few friends who are running an 16v system and they're turning back to a 12v system because even with their huge reserve, they're still dropping into the low 12's. Granted they are running on average around 15k+. Even with a 16v system you still drop down low, and that's when amperage is going to matter. To make the same amount of power you'll need more amperage, but with higher voltage you need less? Well.. Correct, but what happens when you drop down below 16v? Well you'e going to need more amperage, when in comparison a 12v battery has nearly double the reserve capacity as a 16v battery. So in short, 12v system is much more practical, easier to deal with, and you don't need to do any "extra" (subjective) work to your electrical. Because as you may know you'll need either a stepdown module for your engine even possibly for your mids/highs alternator or a dual alternator setup just to charge your 16v system. An alternative setup would be to run 12v batteries and 4v batteries to make a 16v load then charge when not competing using a normal charging system... BUT that's just me.

O.o anything else makes my head hurt lol I can't focus on a 20+ inch monitor 12 inches from my head. That's why you don't game on a laptop. You get a PC, you can clock it, you can change/upgrade parts whenever. Mine is up gradable not just ram, video, processor.

O.o anything else makes my head hurt lol I can't focus on a 20+ inch monitor 12 inches from my head.

With that small of a screen... lol that small.. 17.3 is pretty big for a laptop

http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/ExpandableSleeving.php I read that. Although I missed the 1 3/4" sleeve, but I still think that's too small. http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/american/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=69_70_72&products_id=263 Back ontopic...looks good!

http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/ExpandableSleeving.php

http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/ExpandableSleeving.php

averaging round 60 fps on crysis 2 and about the same for BF3 beta.

vents out the back. No burnt nuts here.

this is what you should do. 1. Grab a DMM 2. Measure your voltage at your alt 3. measure voltage at front batter 4. measure at your rear battery (if you have one) 5. Measure at the amplifier it's self. could be a slightly burnt fuse, bad ground, etc.

I'd keep it where it is, the smaller the box the less efficient it will be. if you can manage .6 ft^3 you'd be perfect.

I bought a high performance laptop. Not a fan of desktops at all. 8 GB of DDR3 2.0GHz (with Turbo Boost up to 2.9GHz) i7 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560M w/ 2GB

Sounds perfect, if you're using .75 MDF you will end up with 0.55 ft^3, but ensure you account for driver displacement. The shape of the enclosure will not make an audible difference.

Birthsheet = retarded They are unrealistic.