Julian

I HATE people with extremely bright headlights (The HID's).. especially on raised trucks... My car is low so i get these assholes headlights straight in my face and i hate it.. even when my windows are tinted at 20% Same here. My last Mustang was the worst as it was so low, I was even in direct line with several normal vehicles. It's even worse when they also have fog lights.

I HATE people with extremely bright headlights (The HID's).. especially on raised trucks... My car is low so i get these assholes headlights straight in my face and i hate it.. even when my windows are tinted at 20%

Welding wire is the best for the price.. The kicker wire is indeed good.. but you're paying for a name and a fancy jacket

We don't know what you're talking about.

"0g" = 1/0 2/0 = 2 1/0's in one jacket. Pronounced One OUGHT, Two OUGHT, so on and so forth

We don't know what you're talking about.

If it's sealed.. No I'd deaden the rear deck since for most cars it's just flimsy sheet metal.

I was googling for that video nick

very carefully with a sharp razor blade cut under the the CA glue and get it off, then re apply CA glue and position it correctly

That tailpipe is looking very sensual I'd like to get to know it a bit more... that is one sexy car. Anyways i love the taste of Crown Royal Black but the next day not so much... not so much hung over but.. feeling bloated

Personally I would deaden the rear deck and make sure it's 100% sealed.

It's the amplifier popping off and on. It could be your hu, this is what you can do Get a 4PDT relay (four channel system), or a 2PDT relay (stereo system), and connect it between the output of your HU and the input of your aftermarket power amplifier. Connect the coil of the relay to chassis ground and the system turn-on lead... If the pop is quicker than the relay, you can add a large value electrolytic capacitor (i.e. 4700 mfd @ 16 VDC) to the turn-on lead of your aftermarket power amplifier... And you'll have to add a 1N4001 diode, or equalivent, in series with the turn-on lead feeding your aftermarket power amplifier... This will keep the electrolytic cap from keeping the entire system active. This is what i've heard to do. http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=1 there you go.

Those amps don't do well on low voltage you need to get a digital volt meter and or a Stinger volt meter. :peepwall:

Well, first off easy thing is what was your voltage at? and was it going into protect?

thanks duran.

It doesn't matter if I can throw a million watts at a woofer.. I'm concerned about how well it uses that power.. The hdc3 woofers' have extremely high inductance.. They're basically power hungry whores. Either way id suggest Fi.. The DC stuff is old designs from RE that Scott later improved on..

My problem with those is that they start "wearing out" when you screw them in and out after a few times. I know, you dont take out and put back your amp every day, but I try to avoid those when I need to screw something. Personal taste I guess, but they sound like a great way to stop theft. They don't wear Down unless you don't have the right tools or no patience, take it slow and try not to strip them, that will detour lots of theft, worse thing they can do is bash up your stuff, but a recone is much cheaper than a whole new woofer, same thing goes with a new HU. the torx screws are cheap and can be had in many sizes from local stores and definitely the Internet, probably something like 5-10 dollars for 100. I'd checks parts express too.

90% of the people don't need rear fill, I had one set of comps in the front and it was Nore than enough for the back

used odd shaped screws on anything that you don't want stolen, hex screws are cheap and NO ONE (for the most part) carries screwdriver for hex heads. give these a look http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx#Variants

The DC Subs are just old FI designs which were sold by the owner of PSI to the owner of DC

As soon As I drop 800 dollars on the dash kit and HU.. My dashkit is around 200$ and I have to get an 80$ Wiring harness

Not tOo bad of a wrap job IMO for my first attempt, I was using thick carpet but I like the looks of them.

I couldn't get the damn grills to stay on so I'll need to do some work on those

Hey, I recently sent in my alternator to be sold by DC... Seeing how they sell like crazy, anyways I sent my alt I believe two weeks ago before MECA, and Rob said he recidved it, he said it was basicly BNIB. I have not been able to get into contact with Rob Nor Kyle, this is a new experience with DC, typically their customer service is fantastic to say the least. My name is Julian smith and the number will be an (816)830-XXX number calling from Missouri. Whenever you guys can give me an update or a call thatd be great. Thanks a lot guys. (and I don't want people posting on here who aren't Affiliated with DC Unless they Are mods, I don't want some nonsense going on, thanks)

PSI is there.. But their soft parts suck