Julian
Super Moderators
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Everything posted by Julian
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take the seats out (rear) and put the enclosure through the rear deck look through this build and it'll show you how, Cobalt Build log
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What's your impedance on the woofers?
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the SA lines fit in very tight places also
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Boobs + Bass =
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The v.2's take hell of a lot of power to be honest, if you have enough space, i'd do 4-15's recone the 18's to 15's then wall that shit!
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you could always get your shades upgrades, are they v.1 or v.2's?
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Like M5 said, you will lose output the lower you keep tuning. More likely to break things, BILTD can attest to this, tuned very low everything flexes even crazier.
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some tangent i went on haah. My brother lives/lived up in MN Twin cities i believe.
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some tangent i went on haah. My brother lives/lived up in MN Twin cities i believe.
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where in MN do you live?
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fixored haha maybe so.. but it seems like it's a turn Sanfran 10 - to KC 31 Chargers 14 to 21 Browns 14 to 16 i say what's more than luck
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I didn't know you were close.. I'm in the AF waiting to go to basic, after basic i'll be going up to witchita once a month for 3 days to work at the local AFB
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You also have to account for woofer displacement, you could also fill it with polyfill, about a pound per ft^3.
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Sorry to hear, and i'm glad you're back it's been awhile!
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Lulz So the Chiefs are actually doing really fucking good for once.
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No, just link from amp A's remote wire to amp B's remote wire.
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I'd just do it like you said, wire to wire to wire. if you're wiring multiple amps (3+) i'd run a relay. but it really depends on your head unit.
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iiiii saw ass!
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Scoshe stuff in general sucks, it's cheap crap
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I now have 1,666 posts. what a day.
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The stock deadener should come off very easily, it did in my new car and it's a brand new car. all you need is a bench scraper and some denature alcohol to remove the residue.