bassahaulic

Hi

I'm not pro caps or anything but why are you so against them? I'm sure it's just a waste of money but can it actually hurt your system? It's more strain on your already hard working alt. It is just a useless POS

Have you not seen the Kinetik battery, the small one, that is 600x more powerful then a 1farad cap? Now imagine a Kinetik 2400 or Powermaster 3100? I could not fathom how a small little 5 farad cap could support 5000 watts. When my Kinetik 2400 could not.

Yes they do. 2 in fact if i remember correctly.

You should wall it

Nice amp fr sure man! I had two of them strapped, they are very efficient.

I was taught how to use a grinder to do it. :-D

As soon as I can afford it we can start building the truck better. But I got fired from my job while I had the Flu :-/

Loudest I have sat in is a tie between my Team mates vehicles. Either Bret's F-150 that's plays music at 158.x or Canaan's Van that has 10 15"s playing a unknown level on music but burps 161's Loudest I have stuck my head in was a 163.8 by another Team mate, Nick.

#1 Wrong section #2 Build a new, higher tuned box.

The SAZ-3500D would be the best amp for you. The 4500 is more geared towards SPL applications as it likes extremely low ohm loads.

ok not gonna lie, thats kinda confusing to me and I was planning on a 2400 kinetic batt per amp, 220amp alt(220 output at 1800rpm), and big 3? big 3/0 gauge wire you mean? IMO It seems like your not ready for a big system like your planning. Your going to need 2-4 2400 per amp depending on amp. And big 3 is upgrading your main grounds and power wires under hood.

Who told you that? I want to know so I can slap them in the face for being retarded. 86% is fine. And who cares about the 4ohm efficiency I mean really? Going to be running it at 4ohm playing 100Hz only? But you have to remember the 4500 is a large step up compared to all the other mentioned amps. And to meet the power output of the SAZ you would need two-three of the other amps. Hell Fire 2500.1 Efficiency: 88.6% @ 4ohms MTX TA92001 N/A RockFord 86% @ 4-Ohm 85% @ 2-Ohm 68% @ 1-Ohm

I have a Sony Mobile ES' XM-7547.... I think the RCA inputs broke or something simple like that. It has full power on and some static as I wiggle the RCA's. It was very nice when it worked right.

This is ganna be nice!! I love cone area. 1,384^2 give or take a few.

Jason?

Am I tripping or is that 6 - 3500D's, 2 subs per amp huh? You ARE tripping!! That's 16 subs for one.... and that's 8 3500's........... You must have failed second grade math.

I loved my SAZ-1000's They were very efficient!! I would personally get the SAZ.

I'm going to go ahead and assume he means making custom headlight housings for your car/truck/SUV that have projector housings built in. HID's are an amazing thing though. They are VERY bright. This is before I had my HID's. Below are Silver Start Ultra's This is after. The set sold as "12 k" but is more like 6 IMO One thing that I URGE you to avoid are blue HID's 95% of people around me have HID's that look like this. ~Note..... These are my HID's powering up These are mine OH and last things........... Lots of info here http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36709 The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) is responsible for setting the standards for automotive safety. As of November 1st, 2005 the NHTSA has revised the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 108 (FMVSS 108) that covers vehicle lighting, due to increasing consumer and manufacturer concerns. The current safety standard has been changed to allow the use of other than OEM source lighting. However, the standard still requires the aftermarket replacement lighting to meet all the same qualifications and photometric requirements as OEM. The interpretation of the new standard is that anything not stock must meet the same requirements for glare and beam pattern output. Aftermarket HID kits in a stock halogen reflector in probably 90% of cases are going to fail the photometric requirements, and therefore are illegal for road use. 90% of aftermarket replacement lamps (OEM knock-offs, non-projector) are not going to be legal either; as a matter of fact, the manufacturers of such lamps have been under scrutiny for a while. Aftermarket projectors are probably okay with their stock halogen bulbs, some may be okay with HID kits as long as the cutoff shields completely block all stray light. Properly constructed OEM HID Projector and OEM HID reflector retrofits are definitely going to be compliant since the sources already meet the requirements with the vehicles they come on. An OEM HID projector retrofit that has a color modified projector in most cases will also meet the requirements just fine, as long as care is taken not to deteriorate the cutoff and beam pattern.

I replaced a Kicker SX900.4 with a SAX-100.4 and it's louder and cleaner IMO. It has alot of power and it sounds amazing!! How many speakers are you looking to push? Just the single set of components? Are you going to run Active or Passive?

I dont know how it will sound with a convertible but I would think you will lose a lot of sound. Why would he want the system to slam hella hard but not want ported enclosures? That sounds like a lot of shit to go in a trunk also. I think you can pound with a lot less. 2k-5k watts and a couple of 18's would slump pretty good in the right circumstances. But if you love to build and he loves to spend...get out the grinder and start stuffin. There ya go. You will loose ALOT of sound and possibly tear the top itself. You need to talk to him and find out his goals, and why he doesn't like ported enclosures. I see NO logical reason why he would want 8 12"s and WANT to be sealed. Beyond the fact that he could say " I got 8 12"s in my truck and it's rattles like King Kong and Godzilla back there thumpin." Which would sound like absolute trash. I have a stern passion for hating trunk rattle.

That is a very awesome box!! vids!!

I'm not whining at all lol I am happy with the wall very much so, It does what it was built to do. Pound down low and it does. And when I had the 1000's, they were strapped so no gain matching. I have heard, idk how accurate though, that average rise is 3x original load. So if both 1000's were at 1, they rose to 3 each. And since the 2000 is at .5ohm, it would only rise to 1.5. But like I said, idk how accurate that is.

I'm not sure what changed from the two amps to this one amp. I did my original testing at a local shop and did the exact same thing I did at the show. A sweep followed by burps. All I know is I gained 1.4db by going in between two 1000's and a single 2000. And since it is sooooo wrong, what box should I use? What woofer/port setup is soooooo amazing that i MUST have it?

That is 3,000-4,000 EACH btw