bassahaulic

I would check ground first, then RCAs, then the rest.

That must be why in drop in tests, SA's are significantly louder, stay together, and sound better. Thanks for clearing that up. Did you really just say drop in tests? The boxes needed for the AQ woofers varies ALOT to what a SA woofer would need, so if the box is optimized for the SA then of course it would do better. Just made your self look ignorant.

I love that stuff for quick mids/highs amp installs.

No, not split. They both get full power. *assumes that there is a non-power limiting crossover in between the two drivers **obviously ALL reasonable crossovers will limit power to the tweeter as 99.9999% of the time they are more efficient and therefore would be significantly louder if there weren't an L-pad circuit to reduce the output of the tweeter The question is a bit moot though. Generically speaking tweeters need almost no power in comparison. Therefore you pick your amp based on what the mid needs to get to a level that you want (assuming it can) and the add the tweeter with a reduction circuit to make it match the output of the woofer. Prove it. Clamp power on a mid and a tweeter using active crossovers so you can't blame it on the passive. Do a full sweep with tones, then do it with music. Post your data. Oh shit.

well i am restricted by space so it needs to be a flat sub and the jl has the most output of the subs i have seen so far and only needing .8 cubes itll still give me decent bass if i had space i would go with a full size sub Check out this woofer. Very good quality and lots of output. http://www.dbdrive.net/products-detail.php?id=K5F%2012D4&brand=OKUR&section=Subwoofers&series=K5%20Series

Sell the JL, and get a better cheaper woofer with normal coils.

Try it and find out.

He's clipping it. Other than the fact that it's tuned too high for music, the box has nothing to do with it. It might be box related if it didn't get louder after a certain point, but the fact that it gets quieter and sounds muffled tells me it's getting clipped. Clipping doesn't always cause it to get quieter, in fact it usually causes an increase in output. More information is need. What amp? What electrical modifications do you have done? More specs on box?

It probably wasn't built or designed right. A wall is a wall, if it's done right it doesn't matter what pillar it's at. Perfect example: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofers/483167-48x-sundown-sa-10s-build.html None of the cab is cut, so it's technically behind the C pillar. Oh, and it does 160's @ 34 hz now. Big differance between Hank's wall and most other walls. Weak score anyway. Just finish a 8 12" wall doing 160's from 30Hz-55Hz.

The Stinger option looks very dangerous, as it's exposed metal. Best option is to use the Stinger coupler for the ground, and get a standard ANL style fuse for the power for extra saftey and much better looks. :-D

Yes the power is split between the two.

Same thing with amps!!!!!!!!!! Drives me fucking nuts. Yeah, at least if they say rated xxx at 12.5v and xxx at 14.4v it helps, but most of the time that's not the case. That's why I'm going to DD amps soon, they are rated at 11.9v!! lol

Same thing with amps!!!!!!!!!! Drives me fucking nuts.

Nothing, all 3 of my rear batteries hold them selves down with their own weight.

I have heard 2 vehicles walled at the C-pillar and it always sounds like hot garbage for some reason.

Xcon based on power is my vote. SQ when talking about woofers is a perfectly flat response, which is IMPOSSIBLE to have with high SPL numbers as SPL relies on a high peak somewhere in the frequency range. You can have a loud woofer that sounds good, which can be acquired just by having a good box.

Logan is so noob.

This isn't necessarily true, since the motor doesn't run with electricity just needs it to start and power some fuel systems. Replace it with a large alternator, and put a large battery under the hood where your stock one goes and you should be all set.

Where are we going Jesus? The land of Audio Knowledge, A.K.A. my house.

Jesus, come on people. Are ALL the wires on the new harness connected to all wires on the radio? The main ones you need to look at are the two blue ones.

What it sounds like to me and friend is that when you had the amp on 12v the ground was good enough to keep the amp grounded and safe, then when you started the vehicle and achieved 14v your ground was insufficient causing permanent damage. This issue with the amp couldn't have been detected as the damage would have been caused in your car.

Would the Yellow Top be a second battery for the rear?

I'd go for 5^3 with 100^2 port area tuned to 35Hz. Should get down REAL good. Same box I have in my GF's car doing 146's at 38Hz legal.

How much port would that 5^3 box have? You want sheer output without caring about how it sounds?

End this thread now. http://www.audioque.com/HD-Series-Subwoofers_c_13.html