CBFryman

I think I already have what Eldorado is talking about. I hope that is all I need. Doing some reading it sounds like I've damaged my rotar, how I dont know since I never had any squealong and on last brake check up they where of adequite thickness. I bet the dusche I bought the truck from put some cheap pads on it to save money and they didnt have the shims that make that terrible noise when you need to replace your pads. Im going to take the wheel off and see if there are any gouges or abnormal wear on the rotar and check the pad thickness.

I hate dell. Notebook or desktop. Dell pisses me off. Esessically their homo casses, one of a kind power supplies and ram, and stupid assed software.

What gapping tool are you reffering to? This is the kind I am familure with. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LJR7...3469?n=15684181

Yes alternators depend on the boat but I'm assumeing this is some sort of run-about or fishing boat. Our bayliner is only 60a and my friends deck boat is only 70a. My dad's chriscraft has and 100a alt on each motor and a 5kw generator. By that is a 29' cruiser.

Thanks, I really hope I havent gone that far. I didnt have any squeaking at all, it just started happening all of the sudden and all of my other brakes are fine.

And I's like to not have to buy a gapping tool. I have shims and All if it is possible to gap with thoes.

First question/problem: As of late my truck's front right break has been making an odd sound when breaking and coasting at a low speed. It isn

I Blew the back speakers in my truck. All 4 wired in series to 32ohm and the wall still won.

Mark Antony amps look like sex...that is all I know about them first hand.

Stoe the amps in a water tight area and you should be good. A place where they have their own supply of air to cool themselves but where it is sealed off from the outside. Use overkill power and keep the gains down to keep the amps cool too. You are correct on treating it like a convertable, If the boat has a tower (fishing ot wakeboarding) it seems to work good to put them above the listener aiming down. The Kicker KS series Co-Ax has a metal cone and rubber surround and is approved for marine use, I would look into thoes. They sound awsome for the price. Also remember to not put too much power in there. Most boat alt's (unless it is a big cruiser or something) arent more than 60-80a that I've seen. Hope I helped some.

Ive bought a number of smaller things from him. He is probably the best seller I've bought from. He goes out of his way to get things done for you over a measly $15 purchase. When a certian *cough* chitty shipping company screws up he goes out of his way to send a whole nother product. I would never hesitate to buy from him EVER. I cannot tell you how good of a guy he is. Ok so it sounds like I'm in love with him, but if I where gay... ok /steven linch Anyway, A+ Seller.

Comming to you tomarrow, the gasket on the JBL's is funky and I cant get it to seal in one place. It's pissing me off, it makes a hissing noise at high volume and I know they arent getting as loud as they can.

I dropped them in aginst my JBL's and let me tell you, things are looking up. Once I get my IS2080 back from Flakko I'll do them IB in the doors. In the mean time I am going todo some "anecho" IB testing and some free air impeadance curves from 50-5kHz.

We broke in our DD's before we put them in the 'Rex But that was to loosen the suspension and we used a wall socket.

The ranger, I hardly ever use my AC...even here in FL. They ranger is also a dependable SOB. Much more so than the contor. You may also want to look into an arealy 90's toyota or honda. You could chit in the gas tank and they would still run.

Celeron FTL

That's 475 watts for the entire system at 100% load ... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I completely over looked that. I retract my past statements.

You got PM back.

First off I would like to thank Mark for allowing me to test these at no cost to me. Ok Here it goes. Initial Impression: When I got off of work and walked around to my front door I saw a box that vaguely resembled an extremely used soccer ball. It was brown and taped up and kind of rounded at the corners. I quickly tore into it and got a peek at these things. I can tell you these are built to the highest of quality. No glue on the surrounds, the surround fits perfectly in the sunken surround landing. The bead of glue on the spider was even all the way around. They just looked high quality. Not fancy high quality like a Ferrari, high quality like a cleanly built RX-7 (not referring to them breaking all of the time because I

I can get you Cadence, Massive, and Sound Stream.

Take thoes back speakers out foo... You might gain a few tenth's just from doing that.

*Could have been taken to PM*

*It depends on how much power potential you have at the given impeadance where you burp as to whether or not you want stiff back walls or not.

No you are correct, a flexing box will have the lowest impeadance where the box flexes the most. The more the box flexes the lower the impeadance because the less resistance there is to pressure changes (which directly effects the resistance to change in cone motion which means coil motion which means lower impeadance). 'Tis why when you look at the back of a wall which is completely sealed from the front sometimes isnt thick at all. Other times you want to keep that energy as soind in the enclosre and not as motion and sound on the wrong side of the enclosre.

Kinda funny when the EMS pulls up and asks how it happened and we say "throwing a frisbee around." LMAO