CBFryman

lol. Too much of a head ache running the power wire right now. Damn toyota and their cramming of everything agianst and around the firewall. Its getting dark. All ive had to eat today is some pop tarts, 2 burrito's and lots of moutian dew.... fudge it

SE homebre'

Personal Experence: If you are going to exceed you're alternators maximum capeability for extended periods of time, to the point you put a load on the battery, and you will do it in inconsistant dynamic peaks. Look into buying a new High Output alternator. My stock 95a alternator just died. I've been informed by some of the asssociates at some of the alternator companies i have spoken with that that is often the cause of permature alternator failure. Usually it is the regulator and NOT the alternator itself, but if you are going to replace the regulator you may as well replace the whole alternator. Most are internally regulated anyway.

I have early bird. IE, i go to school at 7:00AM and get out at 1, busses run for the students who go to school at 9:00 AM and get out at 3:20.

chit fudge chit driving home from school today, music playing next thing i know my truck starts randomly slowing down and my ABS light is blinking. THen i see my voltage meter is droping lower than usualy with the beat. I turn the system off and everything is good. Turn it back on and same problem. Im pretty sure my alternator just died on me. how this relates to the ABS randomly comming on i dont know. Glad my 4 year old battery had the life in her to get me home, Hopefully it can get me to the parts store to have my battery and alternator tested. If it is the alternator, while im paying $150 for a new stock replacemnt, i'll probably pay $100 more tops for a Hight Output Alternator. Since my battery needs replacing too, i may as well drop in a red top. sucks thought because i was planning on a HU but that may have to wait. We will see. This really sucks. I dont know how i will make it to school for the rest of the week either. Glad i get paid today.

meh 2 i dont want to stop by my bank account hates me

Yeah but i seem to have misplaced my camera....ill look for it tomarrow. Wicked one is almost finished and basically waiting for paint/baffles. These drivers are so beefy im going to have to put the baffles in with the drivers already mounted, good thing is once the enclosrue is bolted down there is no way in hell anyone will be able to steal the drivers without either stealing a 55lb enclosrue with it or completely tearing apart the enclosre.... and all for a pair of $55 drivers...ehhh not really worth it. HU went in easy thanks to a sosche install kit. First time that ive used one and it went perfect w/o any hitches. Wires are ran except for the power wire and i have the molds for the kick pods. this is going to be one hell of a system i beleive. Anybody think i should remove the rear speakers to vent the bass into the cabbin? she uses the back seat for friends/books/little brothers so keeping it folded down isnt really an option. Also, best to have the opening facing rear with the box pushed all the way to the back of the trunk? oh yeah. That $150 pioneer unit form Wally World is pretty nice. Even if i had to wait an hour for someone to come and open the damn case for me. List of To-Do's: Sand and paint Enclosure Make Enclosure Lid Mout baffles Run Power Wire Reenfoce and cut out shape of Pod Molds Make Pods Im trying a new pait for the enclosure. It's rim paint. Sapposed to be uber durable with no need for primer. for the pods im using matching interior pant. With a texture im hoping to get a nice plended in look. I may paint the grills too, or just leave them black. They arent the bestl ooking but they are nice.

sealed batteries dont need to be vented. Clean...almos too clean...

nice go-fast toy

i can drop a chevy 350 bored and stroked to a 383 with a high performance cam, and total valve train redo, high CR, etc etc... into an uber weak unibody and never be able to get on it hardbecause the torque will snap the uni in half.... makes the car worthless for anything but light driving.

another fine suggestion. what is the price range of thoes new/used?

holy hell, i need a pair of 12's of thoes.

invert it.... if that is possible.

Or 6-9dB near tuning of course this is assumeing you have a high(er) tuning so you burp near to it.

bung schnizzle. yeah i gave up on the Type R stickers. Printed another set up and couldnt find postage. Went to walmart to get like a $3 thing of stamps, come back and mom trashed the new ones. Sorry guys.

kool, now i just need to track another one down...lol.

WOOT!

its a shame when a basket/suspension is what is holding a driver back....

im possibly down, depending on price

damn my un updated quicktime

- Driver Features - - Solid Copper shorting sleeve - Solid Aluminum phase plug - Split coil design flat-BL design - Ultra low distortion - Extreme excursion - 11.5 mm one-way - Opposed tinsel leads for linear performance at higher excursions - High quality spider - Rubber surround - Open frame cooling vents for voice coil - Curvilinear cone profile - Ultra low inductance - Flat and extended frequency response - Incredible bass output in sealed or ported designs - Infinite/open baffle compatibility - Neodymium motor structure - Detailed sound - High output capability - Cast metal frame - Fully sheilded design - Light weight and easy to mount - Reflection free compact motor structure

i not really concerned at ALL about SQ. this is strictly SPL set up. the Ava will be in all days except for competition.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=295-190 Pair FTW VERY similar to Adire's old Tempest's. i had a Tempest in my room for a short period of time, never even got to crack it open at all when the parents where home, much past 3/4 and stuff was falling off the walls and the neightbors where calling the house complaining. mine was 5cuft@18Hz with a single 4" PVC port downfiring.

me likey, me likey alot. Though ported will take up alot of room, maybe it will stop the slap. Another thing you could do is glue some felt where the leads are hitting the cone. The coak's i got from Flakko had that done between the tweeter and the cone. realt phase plugs FTW. get some vid of it getting stroked

dont get RE's...they fall apart in a year