CBFryman

Im thinking about doing a test, im going to get Gorrila GLue, Standard wood glue, an w/e eones i can pick up, follow directons perfect to teh T and then to tensile strength tests.

i was so pissed off and tired by the time we got it all buttoned up i never got a finished pic. Then we where having throttle cable problems. Made a huge difference though. I used to hate Hyundias too but this is a quick little car (Tiburon). I Do hate the way the heat sheilds are st up and the desigenrs of the engine still though.

in some cars water runs throuhg the doors Some neoprene is damn heavy while others is quite lite. My we suit weighs aboud 1/2 as much as my vest but uses more neoprene.

Sweeet. In my new enclosure im going for interchangeable ports....im gonna go up to 8.25cuft@40Hz... any more and my port will have to be less than 6" long which ive heard really doesnt make it a port any more. 60sqin of port area. i stay below 60ft/sec for daily and peak at 85 ft/sec with the SPL port in. Hopefully i will have my new 1100D Refurb by Mar 18. See you there.

When my wood working skills get better im gonna try biscut joints with gorrilla glue and use nothing but clamps.

BTW, yo ureally only need 2, 3 at the max, and 3 cynder blocks (cynder blocks are my best friend when building alone) all that cost less than one good bar clamp

i have 6 cheap plastic/nylon clamps (the ones that are black with orange teeth or w/e) and 2 cynder blocks...its all i need

Oh yeah and if its real bloody just put some MDF dust in it.

Been there done that Just filling the cut in with pine sap and then putting some sand on it makes for an instant scab too.

I tried my hand at making an enclosure with miter joints instead of butt end joints like normal. This is going to make finishing the box 100% easier and take half as much filler (just having to fill the screws). I had always been turned off by the thought of miter joints because every one says they are so "complicated" and the thought that iff i mess up that pice is gone for good. Well now i realize that if you think about what is going on and tripple check its easier than designing a box with butt end joints, best part is if you fudge up a lil it isnt gonna be a big thing to corrct it. Case and point: My first set of 45's where slightly steeper than 45...i realized this, made some adjustments on the saw to correct that and all i end up with is a little skinny lip that on the corner. two brushes with the palm sander and its gone. The corners where going to be rounded anyway. It also gives the glue mroe surface area to bond to. I love them now and if this enclsoure turns out A++ with half as much work as regualr joints i will never go back.

im not looking for a location....im asking how to flare it. Im thinking about jsut not flaring it

the cement idea was more for HT Still needing an answear for hte port question

Wish i had some

Ok, 1st question. Ive heard of making cement lined enclosures where you basically build and enclsorue inside and enclosure, but what about cement enclosrues where the outer enclsoure is ment to be removed and the cement finsihed off liek they finish off cement counter tops? Its reletively cheap to finish cement counter tops, you can make them smooth like glass or retain the cement feel. I dont have any plans to do such a thing but im just wondering if anybody has though about doing this or has already dont this. 1 1/2 80lb bags would probbaly be what yo uwould need for a moderately sized enclsorue plus reed bar and that wire stuff...so all in all your moderately sized enclosure that normally would weigh 50-60lbs when built soldey out of MDF would now weigh 100lbs more. I wouldnt think you would need any bracing wich is even better for SPL and no funky responces. Other questions is when flaring square ports which would be the best in my app with my truck, out the drivers side, all 4 sides, top and bottom, or front and back? of course all corners will be rounded but what about the actual flares? also, when making the flares how much space should i leave between the notches in the MDF? say a 2" flare 4"long

Yes Yesm has to be in a TCAB and you have to pay $60 for a single 6" Port to see any gain at all.

Lots of Mass, Spike it to the floor and suspend the surface that the turn table actually sits on with capilary tubing.

When you pawn/sell spare equptment for new audio equiptment. You drive less to buy more. You eat out less to buy more. You pawn/sell spare equiptment to make next months payment on w/e. You refuse to step foot into a local audio shop You know the difference between Class A, B, A/B, and D amplifiers and know why there is no such thing as true B-Class amplifiers for most audio reproduction. You measure Impeadance Curve just because You build enclosures just because you have an old driver you want to play with. You Buy MDF just incase. You have a stash of wood screws just incase. You have enough 1/4 full bottles of wood glue lying around to make 10 full bottles. You have Glue/Chaulk/Bondo/Paint/Primer/Stain somewhere on your hands almost 365 days a year. You use that as an excuse to not shake hands with people you dont like. You sit around making this up because you dont have an audio project to be working on at the moment. Your installs for your buddies are reguarded as higher quality than the installs of the local car audio shop by multiple people, almost a whole high school infact... and you are only 16 and have no formal training what-so-ever.

Woodworx? wood glue from loctite or what? im too lazy to google. So far ive found nothing better than gorilla and your standard wood glue works fine with screws....however, the lie that your basic chitty woodglue is stronger than the wood itseelf is BS...i had no problem tearing my 1/2 finished wicked one with a few hits from a 2lb hammer.

my camera is 4mp and it cost like $150 with docking station but only has 8mb internal memory, i have a 256Mb thumb nail flash drive and i have hundreds of pictures on it (hte batter dies before yo ucan see htem all in viewing). It has epoxy, glue, and polyester resin all over it but the pics are still good....

::runs to pawn shop:: ::Old silver necklass from my "bling bling" days = $30:: ::$95 to go:: ::searches room for stuff to pawn/sell::

oh andi love the Miter joints.... im thinking about useing them on my new ava 18 enclosure, i wish i had the ability to make blind dove tail joints.

Sexyness. All i have is a circular saw, cheap one at that. but i do have a $18 carbide blade that cuts MDF like butter.

YGPM Taxes end early april? i think, not sure.