CBFryman

mine sound fine...but my substage will way over power them...the tweeters are harsh...and im still trying to track down some more mounting hardware...damn ductape is holding them in place now, LMAO...

yada yada... its getting late and im tired and i reached a good stoping point...here is what we have so far. no more cutting...just drillin, gluein, and screwin.. 2nd sheet ready to go under the knife something out of starwars... what it looks like to me i went ahead and resinged the corners because they will be part of the port which will be next to go in, then the top, and then finally the baffle. hopefully tomarow i will get it all sanded and painted black...i was thinking dark blue or red but i already have black pain lying around from my tweeter pods...

ya, the damn homedepot guy sat there and watched me lug these 2 50lb sheets of MDF into the bed of a nissan frontier (small bed, and with the roll out toneu cover i couldnt push it althe way to the front so i had to tie it in because the talegate wouldnt go up...it was wedged in there at an angle) while he helped some guy twice my size get a dog pin into a full sized GMC.... and did you know you have to BUY your own flags now? they didnt even have the red plastic anymroe all they had was these 3 dolar fancy ones...so we went down the interstate with no flag, oh well...2 hwy patrollmen where passed and we didnt get pulled over... anyway, im hoping to get all but the baffle for the 18 togather today and the ports rouneded at the edge...but its pretty hot and humid so i may quit working if i get too tired. long night last night......but a fun one.

ive been hearing nothing but great stuff about mean grean. if i ever upgrade my stereo enough to need an alternator mean green is what i will be getting.

damn.....

Better beleive it, beyotch

oh, i was just unloading it from the truck...i had sandles on and didnt even think about the jack being there.... here is the culprit and here is an update pic of what i have so far. oh ya, and cynderblocks are your friend when transporint MDF short distances incase you havent figured it out, im going to have to ports (3.5x11) come down and bend towards each other, hence the overhang. the only thing i am worried about is the motor somewhat blocking the airflow. if it does ill have to bend the ports back up (180degree bend) ill have plenty of extra MDF incase... but i dont think it will be a problem (3" from the corner to the back plate)

Here is a little update, one whole corner done, its getting dark, i dont feel like having to sweep the garadge and we have no lihgting under the car port...tomarrow... i got one more side done ill have pics soon.

ok, some off topic chit (hasnt this whole thread been that so far?) what a good wax job does when it rains the culprit and something on topic, the MDF

not...pics coming soon, as soon as the bleeding stops... Well i got my MDF...while hauling it into the garade because it was starting to rain i tripped on my Floor jack, sliced my foot pretty deep, and got traped under a 50lb sheet of MDF.... well needless to say it was funny to me, untill i realized how bad my foot was bleading... 2paper Towels and a gauze pad later 2 more gauze pads later and a small bandaid and 2 hot pink bandaids later.... well once the bleeding stops completely (its starting to seep fomr under the bandaids...i hope i dont need stiches) and i finialize my enclosure plans (ive gone with my original idea, dual upfiring ports...screw it...) ill start on my enclsoure and post some pics

may just be the camera mic...but thoes are deff not for SQ

Bracing a fiberglass enclosure is quite easy. after already streching the fleec with no frame work (initial framework is just for the shape, not the strength) then you cut a strip of MDF or other wood andwedge it where you want it. then glas 4-6layres of mat around it and few inches up its base. the resin will bond to the wood and, of course, to the interior walls. same thing can be done in an all MDF enclsoure if you are going the screwless way. Fiberglass enclsoures that sound "hollow" are generally too thin.

::shrugs:: dipping is too messy, uses too much resin IMO. i can get it soaked with a paint brush, the key is fresh/new resin...old resin doesnt soak as well... it is also usually a darker brown where as new resin is a light light brown... see pic below...try and figure which one used old resing and which new.

somehow im going to say this is bush's fault...lets impeach the damn lameduck just had to say it... This is so gay....sometimes id just like to ***************************** ************************* )(*^&%&$^%$(&^%()*&^&^(*%%$(&^%T)(*&^ ******************************** but they do pass some really stupid stuff...lets just hope and pray this isnt one of them...

jesus, cant i make a joking, yet true, responce...i didnt know this was SIN...

Polyester is cheaper, strong enough for audio, and more easily obtainable, plus you can ONLY use polyester in most fiberglass mats because they have chimeicals in the glass strands that help POLYESTER resin adhear and soak in. NjccBflo said 5-6layres with epoxy... about the same (maybe an extra layre or two) will do in most cases with polyester. but it doesnt have to be as thick if you have a lor of curves because curves is where polyester (and any fiber composite) is strongest. dont mean to call you out NjccBflo. Epoxy is great when building surfboards, extra light and even stronger for ding/dent prtection...but for car audio, polyester is fine.

youd be surprised on how fast your first jobs go...sure it makes things safer but id rather mix up a small portion, glass it in, then have to mix up more and do another area and have both cure quickly then waite over night to get the chit to cure. my first glass project took 2 days to cure completely because i thought i would go the "safe" way and mix less hardener than reccomended...now when i glass, for the most part, i mix it very hot because i get done with what im doing in only a few minutes... gets tacky enough to do another layre in 10-15min and gets gelly in 5min...but im talking with polyester resin, with epoxy they give you an aprox cure time and you ALWAYS mix to their reccomendations...ive found that out the hard way...too much hardener and its brittle and curse WAY to fast, too much resin and it never gets past gelly type stuff with out days to cure or a heat gun. use of a heat gun can also make it brittle.

used Tshirt???? lmao

wigga what? no bondo?

well see who is saying that when noah and i are making mucho denaro and you are pulling a whopping 30grand a year being a MacDonalds Manager.... Since, we actually care about education (well me only sort of)

areo ports are teh suck...and it isnt that i CANT fit this driver its that im squeazing out the space while not going above the window line and me sitting comfertably with only the removal of the jump seats...oh and mounting the amp on one side of the enclsorue restricting my length by an extra 3.5".... going 2" above the window line, removing the jack and 3rdand 4th door panels an seat belts and mounting my amp on top of the enclosure or below a seat with a slant i could easily get 7-8cubes with 80sqin of port area.... But that takes too much work. and that is just a quick example i drew up in Quick Cad (the suckier of my 2 cad programs, my other being auto cad which still isnt that great, not everyone can afford an $800 CAD program for their home computer) with out layres or anything and then did a screen shot and croped it so anyone could view it. BTW...Chad, who knows a hell of alot more about the drivers than you do num nuts said 6@~30 is where to start with the driver for SQl, and that going larger only opens up the low lows in the mid 20Hz area and lower. and 77sqin is following enclosure rules of thumb which are, for daily, 12-16sqin for ever cuft. i dont know where you learned arethmatic but 6*12=72... and with a true 1000w signal gay WinISD says i will be around 40 ft/sec port velocity...and since i doubt i will get a true 1000w with impeadance rise and the fact that i will rarely send it that much since ihave RE comps and even with rap i like to hear some of what they are saying...port noise WONT be and issue. Now...back to my question side firing, my other design, or another idea BESIDES areoports or PVC or any of that chit. Slotted ports ... BTW...wont be 15 for long... and i lost the chops a while ago from the last pic you saw of me...since ive started working i actually have to shave oh and i already told you why i am going ot have some sort of grille, not to protect punctures...to keep dumbasses form moving the seat all the way back

lets see, you can get a gallon of polyester for as cheap as $30... do you have any idea what a gallon of epoxy cost around here? lets just say the chit that takes forever to harden completely cost about $40 a for 2 qts...and that is the cheap stuff...

Need Mo Pics Dawg because and with out pics you are a and i call now, but what you have so far

I Recently Talked to Chad Kyupers Drivers Start Shipping a week from today. While talking to him i mentioned 6cuft@29Hz, he said he had a guy do 4.5 at 30Hz and its output was INSANE with only 800w. he said 6@29 with 1200w should wang hard so im down to 2 enclosure options, both with equal port area (77sqin) only one iwth 2 ports and one with one. originally i though there was going to be no way to get the ports on the same plain as the driver, so i designed a side firing enclosure and the port a straight shot. then i came up with the idea to get the port on the same plain... see image below http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBFryman2/avatest.bmp the bottom thing is what the front of the enclosrue will look like (though the enclosrue will have a slanted front so i can get that "gangsta lean" on while driving) and the top thing is a cross section of one of the ports bottom being the plain the driver is on. and top being inside the enclsorue. The other idea was basicaly like a normal ported truckbox for a single cab with a sloted port seee DD's design and it was very similar only it was for a single 18 and super sized for the needed volume. a rectangular box just isnt an option, i cant evne squeez 5cuft ported from a rectangular enclosure with the needed port area. so slanted is the way to go. and im not sitting uncomfertably, ill go 5cuft sealed before i sit uncomfertably with room for .... ill shut up now my other thing is, i am going ot have some dubasses sitting in my truck, who will in herently move hte seat as far back as possible just because they can as soon as they get in (split bench seats) and befoer i notice i will have the sub turned up and will probably crack the coil from the cone from oneside being held down and the other not. so im working on a template for a fiberglass grille, check the design below.... http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a167/CBF...2/ascendant.bmp my only problem is im worried about air flow...it seems like there is too much blockeage...well post your thoughts, i could open up the grille more if i wanted to, it will just take some more deisning on CAD

Epoxy also cost a chit load more and polyester resin and fiberglass are fine for 99% of audio projects... you jsut have to make it thick enough.