CBFryman

i wish i could get a mean green 220 but i dont need that, my lights probably wont dim much with the amp i am running...

not really, when you first start the engine most newer ECU's have the engine idle between 1000 and 2000 RPM. after 10-20min of driving idle can drop as low as 200RPM in some cars...my truck will have the needle between the 500 notch and the 0 markcloser tothe 500 though...and i have a vacume leak in my EGR controller. older ECU's and carburated engines have to always idle where they would have to idle to keep running on a cold start because they dont have varible idle control.

well that is all what MOST pwople can do since they are only in development. you can make a concious decision with out experencing somehting first hand. anyway i should have known better than to bring up the pitfalls of LMT on a board whith SS's official bord...you go over to SIN and say LMT is better than XBL and the same chit will happen...only because people jump on the band waggon of what the prominant people on the board are saying...and because there are 3 companies with XBL drivers on SIN XBL is the more liked technology. But IMO if you want to fix something you look at the motor, not the coil. to do what XBL, LMT, DM, etc are trying to acheive you have to elongate one of the two magnetic feilds, the stationary or the moving one...

there arent any backwaves on a tweeter...why would you need to seal the back off. its sealed with its own enclosure anyway, if you are chaulking it in place are you going to use your mounting hardware, one of mine was "misplaced" id be happy to give you a few bucks ofr shipping via paypal or w/e.

Lamp wire carries a 60Hz signal (or right about there) at 120v all day long...

dood eDuh is sooooo gonna crus the competition...that is because they eD will, by default, get 3 drivers instad of just one because it is being held by the con himself... really fomr all the chit ive heard about him, i dont care what he does...i send ICSX a good nasty e-mail for junking up my mailbox with this crap when my IP is banned from there...

do you care about dimming at the stop light? most places where you will have a stop light you should have your low beams on anyway...low beams dont dim all that much, they only use 50-70w at most generally, unless they are HID or fake HID that burn blueish purple in which case they can use as much as 100w to make that higher frequincy (and there for energy) light. there may be slight timming when dropping to 13.5v but unless you are pushing a good number of Kw 100-115a and a deep cycle battery should maintain 13.5 pretty easily.

oh and BTW... ever need a few more feet of speaker wire for componets? got and old lam you dont want? using 16 or 14ga? ....flexibility isnt a problem untill you get below around 4ga, even the "crappy" home depot 4ga is quite flexible so unless you are planning on routing it around 180 degree bends with a 1/2" radius. speaker wire, even 10ga or 8ga, is usually quite flexible, and for 14ga or 16ga lamp wire works just fine. and BTW if you want high stranded "car audio" speaker wire walmart wire conducts just as well as MTX or Roxford Fosgate wire...

makes thoes motors look small...

i said XBL>LMT BECAUSE it hasnt been developed yet, wether ive heard it or not a the downfalls, at the moment, out weight the benefits hwen looking at the numbers. all of the XBL haters started ranting when LMT was announced for the millionth time that the LMT motor responce chart was like a ruler as far as excursion x frequincy goes and XBL was just an improvment over overhung. thing is this was a driver vs just a motor free air. either way inductance and super high Q isnt a good thing. and im just going by what i have read, personal opinuions mixed with their fantasy world facts and write ups on it. and the common sence of how it works, you elongate the coil to make a longer feild you will, inturn, increase inductace.

Sin...but half of them dont know wtf they are talking about and half are flipping geniouses

oh but did i remeber the correct kelvin for STP, i dont feel like looking it up even though it would take like 5 sec on google...im going to bed ::yawn::

noah is teh gay...like that is common knowldge...at least i pay attention...but i am no GD scolar like some... ::points and smirks:: no more chem for me for a year...then i gotta do AP hard stuff

RE- Good chit, im the dedicated RE whore, and now they are coming out with teh shizzle amps. Ascendant- Ive only heard the atlas, yet to hear an avalanche but i have an 18 on the way...sapposed to be good chit and the price is unbeatable. Hifonics- Lookng for a budget amp with a good number in the power section? look no further. Brutus series is great for the money and the XX Colosus... i have wet dreams over that amp. Tru Tech- ive heard their tube amps, which i loved for rock, and the SH-1 is just so bad ass...i wish i had the money to buy their stuff. i just get to drool at car shows. Pheonix Gold- same hting as hifonics, good amps at a great price, they have some great solid state amps for mids/highs for the price... JL- if i had a chit load of money id have a pair of w713's and 2 JL 1000/1's above most things audio right now...but i dont so i get my good chit from internet/factory direct companies DDaudio-teh wang...thats all you have to say...dominated the SPL scene for years, even before i even knew how a speaker worked led alone about 170+ dB vans. Crystal-damn great componets adire- MSRP price raise or not their old chit was great and im sure the new stuff wont be disappointing well that is my fav brands that i have a good ammount of expernece, wether it be drooling over at car shows or helping install.

so yall know how we talk in the south? i wish i could make big speakers go boom like so untill they cant go boom no more but i like my money, or at least the little bit i have.

lol, let me go check which. "MTW or THHN-2 or THWN or Gasoline/Oil Resistant, Nylon Caseing" i dont know what that means but it is wire ment for the home not the car but once agian, i must reiterate, COPPER IS COPPER

check SIN Car Stereo > Bestus Install Evah 2

silly rabbit, thats OSB not plywood...and i did a science project on it, even plywood has better acoustic properties than OSB because OSB is so porus.

Meh, simple logic, Colder=More dense, the more dense it is the closer the molicles are. Remember that sound is a compresion wave, so one molucule has to bump into the next causing a rise then drop in pressure following the wave pattern. because the molicules are closer togather they more efficently the transfer of energy is. think of it like that cradle thing (i forget the name) with the 5 balls. the balls are molicules, idealy they would be touching, but that is near imposible iwth a gas, so lets move thoes balls arpat, the closer they are to each otehr the more efficently they will transfer the mechanical energy form the swinging balls. Humidity also raises the density of air, so it will have the same effect, to raise the density of air a whole lot you have to cool it quite a bit, so loading the air to 100% humidity is the easier way to get maximum density. hope that helped Just and FYI if you want to try using a compresed gas to cool the air, look at the molar mass of each gas, the safest with highest molar mass will be best beause it will be most dense since 1mol of any gas is 22.1@STP (if memory serves) (STP=274? kelvin which is 0 celcius and 1atm, 101.27kPa, etc...) so the gas with the greatest molar mass will be most dense because it will have the greater mass per volume.

but it is still quite flexible (to be so large) andmost dont use 1/0 for amps but as long as you didnt have to bent it around a corner wil a radius less than 1" it would just take a little more work and you would save 75% with just a few feet that is more than an hour getting paid minimum wadge.

you cant change the electronic configuration of copper. well you can but lets not make theis an ion chemistry discussion. Copper is Copper and all the copper used in all wire has very similar physical properties. there is "oxgen free" wire which is tinted with lead/tin (solder) befoer the caseing is placed on it. but this just prevents oxidation which, once the 1st layre is formed on the ouside it forms a protective coating so the inner copper doesnt oxydise (unlike iron and thealloy steel) so that doesnt do much since most wire will out last the vehicle. Look at these pictures and tell me if this wire is any different then the wire you see on the internet for 4.15/ft...

Home Depot

ohh and this is what will feed this little monstor, if it wants more than that it will jsut have to starve untill i can afforda new alternator. $.92 perfoot and its pretty flexible, not great but "ok" for doing the Big 3 bigger strands, you couldnt run it very easily but its pretty easy to bend to shape and it holds the shape compared tothe 4ga for the amp the 4ga and 1/0 togather and this scale is about 1 1/2lbs light

XBL^2 > LMT...call me an RE/Adire/old Ascendant Whore...truth is, LMT has benefits but it has a lot of developing before it can compeat with something as renound as XBL^2. and LMT is been around for a while, long before i was intrested in car audio (which isnt that long compared to some) Word Has it that because of the extra mass and inductance it takes quite the power to get the thing moving to be loud, not the XBL is efficent, but 4kw to compeat with todays prominent XBL drivers at their RMS. Either way that thing, "LMT" knock off or not, is a POS.

i just bought 10ft 1/0 and 15 4ga from Home depot, 0.92 a foot and its pretty flexible, but 10ft of 1/0 weighs a good 7-8lbs. they had 3/0 for like 1.20 a foot but i was like serious overkill. it was like 2 times the diameter of 1/0. 10ft would have been like 15 lbs. now i need the end lugs, i though i could save some money by getting them from lowes, 4.10 for soild copper ends for 4-3/0ga at lowes and 4.50 for 2 at home depot...for now on, in my book, homedepot >lowes. im gonna have to cut this 1/0 with bar cutters or bolt cutters...