CBFryman

oh and for thoes wondering. here are some pics of the 6.5's...RE hase a nipple fetish.

well, after i get my sub stage i will probably need some dampening. i really do need it now, all i have done is sealed my doors with "Great Stuff" for my componets. well sealed them from the outside, all that keeps the back waves form the interior is the spash guard (which isnt needed now that i have my doors sealed fomr the outside) and my door panel. but they still sound pretty good. someone told me Duplicolor's Truck bed ruberized paint works decent for adding mass to lower Fs of panels. is this true? im looking for a cheap alternative to most good mats/liquids. SS is probably top of the line from what i heave read but to do my intire truck interior would coast hundreds. hundreds a teen just doesnt have.

that is the draw pack of paint, especially black. every little imperfection will show. im hoping to work that over. it is a dent in the paint, not the glass. so some wet sanding should take it out.

patience, the paint is still drying and i donw ant to get a wrinkle. but here is a look at what they will look like once installed. i ended up getting a little wrinke anyway. oh well. some wet sanding and another coat will take care of it. it will give me something to do while i am waiting for htings to cure on the passenger side pod, which still has a ways to go. and i wont get to work on it next weekend. maybe this up coming firday.

the finsih is looking pretty sweet. actually a little too glossy for me likes, almost. i may wet sand with some 440 to pring th gloss down some. there is a little spot up around the top that wasnt getting enough paint, so its finish looks s little flat/grey...but i fixed that iwth another coat of paint, pretty much. with the flush mount tweeter ring installed, the finished doenst look as glossy because there was a 2nd light source bedites the camera flash.

shhh, it was special made...lol i ment 18, sorry. there is an L7 15 though, right? well either way it is either an SX18, or Avalanche 18 at the moment. XXX18 is too much for my parents to cope with. F'in parents. so while on the subject. Which do you guys think would be louder? say 1000w 6.5cuft 7cuft if i squeaz or make a molded glass enclsore instead of all MDF. tuned around 28-29Hz with 80-100sqin of port area. or reccomend another woofer. SS have any 18's? im not extremely familure with their line up. multiple subs is out of the question. beleive it or not 2 15's require more air space than 1 18, and 2 12's wont get as loud and 3 will cost more. i was thinking 2 atlas 15's...but i dont have enough space.

Thanks for the complements. Im done with primer on the drivers side pod, now on to paint. ill have pics ASAP...now i just need to mud the pasenger side pod.

not bad for a ford... so what car is that anyway?

well if it was for anything but tweeters the molds would have been trashed the first time and redone. also i would have done another layre of mud with some acetone mixed in to make it more milky to fill in the pin holes. Aiming would have been differnet as well. So are thoes pods going to be your first fiberglass project? if so well all i can say is, wear gloves and if working in a enclosed space use a resporator. and work when it is warm outside so you can mix the glass a little less hot and give you some more working time. oh and TAKE YOUR TIME. dont be frustrated. and whne laying the mat for the mold tear/fray the edges so it will be easier to form or use cloth instead of mat. but if using cloth do at least 3 layres of 4-6oz before poping them off and make sure the paterns meat at a 45 degree angle for maximum strength. Read all the tutorials you can and tape off anything that resin may get on...because if it can, espeically when you are first learning to glass, it will. Good luck and post some pics if you can.

^^lmao... man he dont drive a Neon, he drive an SRT-4 dawg sweet car though...it would shure whip my trucks ass all over the pavement.

Well i got my RE comps from the SIN group buy a while back and it has just been these past 4 weekends that i have been working on making some tweeter pods....well actually like 2hrs of work total each day. i am finally up to paint...well here is a look back. Well here is the 2 molds. im not going to go into how to do this because there is already a thread filled with Fiberglass Tutorial Links Stickied. ya i know, the mat wasnt 100% saturated...old resin doesnt like to soak. Streching the fleece glassing the fleece a hole cut i know, not a good mounting andle by any means but we alerady discussed this for like 3 pages in a thread and the RE's have swivle mounts so i can utilize firing them at the windsheild or at me. however i like firing them at the windsheild because RE's are pretty harsh, even being silk domed. but if i ever get it EQed then i may want to spin the mabck towards me. and yes we even discussed "smearing" from refraction. I dun went muddin, but i didnt get my usuall stuff (i usually get the "good" bondo body filler but i figured for some make=shift tweeter pods id save a few bucks) and i mixed it too hot...it dried before i knew what had happened and so it isnt very smooth After 2 shets of 100 grit it is decently workable. so i moved up to 150 looking smooth, so i moved up to a quick 220 before primer a look after the 220 and a wipe down with 50% acetone and 50% methanol. i would have used tac cloth but i figured id save myself a few bucks and steal som stuff form my chem teacher. there are a few pin holes but i am doing 3 coats of primer so they should be filled in. one spritz of primer. not looking bad. a friend even commented that they look better than most of the stuff he has seen come out of the local JLaudio/MTX/Kicker/Sony Xplod dealer. of course when i tried to talk to him about companies like RE and Adire and SS and AA...he called it crap and i would never get as loud as a JL w713 or Kicker SoloX 15....we will see so there it is. dont be too harsh. not my best work.

i spy with ym little eye Big light up guages with large chit point light and lots of guages. however i do not recognize the interior as a honda civic. nor do i know the performance modificaitons done to your vehicle... but nice work on the stealthy install...it'll keep theives away but your guage wont keep ricers away.

well, from an example i read somewhere else, which, i belelvie, was written by the DW crew, and also makes sence to me: Lets say we have a mystery box. internal box area is 3,000sqcm. our sub, sub X, is 500sqcm. if the entire box flexes 1cm (extreme) it is wasteing the energy of the sub moving 6cm... but if a box is flexing 1cm you have problems. i tend to agree with yall that for dailly application if using 3/4MDF and if you dont have any large panels, bracing and doble baffleing isnt needed unless you have a heavy sub or are really putting the power to it. but just to be safe i would say minot bracing would be a good idea, especially if you have a large panel. and if your sub is 40lbs+ double baffle it just to be safe.

i didnt say you couldnt cut straight with a CS but it is easier with a table saw. BTW Carbide tipped blades have shown the best results for me when cutting MDF... But w/e, i have a table saw and a circular saw at my disposal along with a Jig saw, Saw Zaw, 2 drills, and if i want to drive out to my grandpa's whot a plainter and a router along with a stationary sander.... oh and a band saw, and a drill press... oh and more clamps than any one home depot....

mind you that a circular saw is good but a table saw is better, more accurate, and straighter cuts...

sounds like what i may end up doing, only thing i i am doing it because i am pou....that right, pou... im hooked on ebonics...

if you need an enclsore plan drop me an E-mail at [email protected] with the driver(s) you are using, maximum dimentions (Depth, With, and Height), and desired results. i design for donations. though not required they are appreciated due tothe fact that it does take time and some algebra to design enclsores.

never buy "speaker power wire" copper is copper which means wire is wire....as long as its 100% iz all good weldingsupply.com but you DO NOT have to fuse to the stock wireing fuse form Alt to Batt. really, some people say double the alt's rated output, or w/e the wires maximum ampere capeablility is.

Thanks, you guys are friggen awsome...well...now i just have to fix the crap on my truck before i get my SX18, yes i switched to the SX because of money and parents "why the hell do you need a $500 speaker" oh well, for rock and rap (what i listen to) the SQ differnece should be slim to non, since the SX will never be pushed very far in the gap when listening to rock because i dont like pounding kick drums drowning out the rest of the music, but i do like a good bass guitar line, however....

needs a pair of Magnum D2 15's....magnums in a hemi magnum... then you could make it look OEM with matching carpet and have the molded into the cargo area and all then tell people they where part of the OEM system...

I know that ports are most efficent when they are facing on the same plane as the driver, and that you loose any gains form the port if it fires 180 degrees from the driver. but, how much SPL will be lost by aiming the por just under 90 degrees from the driver? In a (hopefully) up comming enclosure construction for an XXX18 in a Mazda B3000 ext cab putting the port on the same plane as the driver will be very hard, so i am thinking of having hte port firing up and the woofer on a slanf facing forward.... how will this compare tothe woofer and the port being on the same plane? im not concerned with not being loud, i am concerned with not beating a friends 4 JL w1v2's with a 500/1.... He says he has the loudest daily substage someone can have for under $1500....we will see about that

Whats up, i just found this bord, scanned through it, and said "hell, why not join." well ya well maybe this place will be as awsome as SIN...because thoes guys are awsome... peace