audiolife

You can mix sizes of the kinetik, the reason why it is suggested to use the same size is just for balance, which usually give you a longer lifespan. I know Impious seen my old car when he bought some speakers 2 or 3 years ago, that car had 2nd gen hc2000's put in it in 2000 or 2001 that were in it working in 2008 (6500 watts all class A/B on a 190 alt) On another note I spent part of yesterday and today trying to desulfate a couple of yellow batteries for a friend but they failed to after 4 hours, have a couple more to do this weekend but they are different.

The pertective cases can be bought seperately. They fit both the audio line and racing.

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2127/imag0108.mp4 He just put in the new engine and got it fired up.

What is the battery voltage after you have left the car set a few days? You can be experiencing a accumulation of a parasitic drain.

There are batteries 13 lbs lighter than the 1700 with 1 less aH on your list. I would monitor the resting voltage of the batteries closely for the first few weeks, also if you live where it gets snow and you wont be driving the car for a few weeks I would disconnect the batteries from the car and put them on a maintainer/charger inside until you are ready to roll again no matter what you choose.

I look at it like this the car is going to need 20-40 amps of the 250 to run the car so you are basically running 210 amps for a 3800 watt system. There is not a battery made that can charge as fast as it discharges so if and when you are pulling more from the alternator than it puts out you can be drawing 100+ amps from your batteries at any given time (more with the engine off). To a lower capacity battery those 100+ amps mean more to its state of charge than it does to the larger capacity batteries. Smaller capacity might recharge from 50% DOD faster than a larger capacity battery discharged to 50% DOD but it is going to take longer to get to 50% DOD on the larger battery so you would be cycling the smaller batteries more which would effect lifespan. Also you want to make sure the batteries do not get overcharged (seen it with every battery listed) and you want to make sure they never reach the state of being undercharged for a long period while . Last I checked no battery company warranties for those conditions. I would get a charger that does AGM charging like a ctek us7002 or hard wire install a KIPS 60 or KIPS 80 that will charge up your rear batteries more fully than what your alt would. Doing so and monitoring the the voltage will help you in finding a potiential issue before it becomes a problem and will keep your batteries lasting longer and perform better in the long run.

Over 5 year old Kinetik HC 1400 under the hood Voltage at battery from the alternator after 10+ minutes after start up while getting ready to check transmission fluid. It has been this way since I installed it over 5 years ago and over 50k miles. "New" Kinetiks are made the same way mine was as well there was no magic change over or lower quality parts. 2 most common ways to kill a battery are undercharging and continued use as the battery is continued to be left undercharged. Can be a very slow process. The second way is to overcharge a battery which becomes rather obvious when you start hearing valves pop, smell rotten eggs and then end up with a swollen battery. Every battery is susceptible to these factors and many 12 v AGM batteries come with a little note that says * do not charge at over 14.4 volts* . It is a very common and is not a "bad thing" especially if you are concerned with lifespan.

the new cd-1's are pretty loud and are not plastic. I wish I would have kept a set of horns. I have had cd1-E, cd-2 , cd-3 ultras, and some funky tads on a usd horn body. use a horn right in this application you can just add mid bass (mid basses) and 1 or 2 pair of horn loaded super tweets crossed over at about 15k.

BRZ are different than a bxi

They had a vehicle (Craig Butler) at sbn that broke 180's in MECA, Db Drag and IASCA. SBN 2010: Congrats Craig Butler & Team 182.6!!! As far as their amps go all I can say is they make them small and make some powerful.

Important Kinetik Battery info for those with problems - SSA Car Audio Forum - Page 5 Funny thing 14.4v is what almost every manufacturer will recommend with the paperwork with their 12v agm battery . I have had my kinetik for 5+ years with voltage above 14.4v but below 15v.

I would get an alt of at least 160 solid amps 200+ would be better and a battery front and back. The battery in back will keep your amplifier happy. Parked at idle, engine off, driving slow or driving down the highway your system will work better given everything is hooked up and working properly. In the not so distant past there were people running considerably less power be it a couple rf punch 200's and 500's, or a couple of ppi 2150's or even a kicker ss500 with another amp for components people still blew up amps, alts and speakers because they didn't have an upgraded electrical. Granted efficiency is better now but the power went up quite a bit more.

Was the battery ran down? How close is it to the engine? How good of shape is the voltage regulator? What is it hooked up too? Stock alt can cook many things including the whole car and batteries.

I will also add I actually worked at Kinetik between 2005-2006 and with thousands upon thousands of Kinetiks sold I rarely received any failures back and I would be pretty sure quite a few were hooked up to high output alternators. I know a few who have Ohio Gen alts hooked up to 6+ year old kinetiks.

Totally not true, in fact they are bigger now than they even were last year. If you look you will indeed see shops and online stores have them in stock and it is new stock. When I worked at Kinetik back in 2005-2006 people had high output alts back then as well and I rarely seen returns. Thousands of Kinetiks were sold when I was there and less than 1 pallet came back with issues. To put the total ammount into context I took all the cells in to the local battery drop off to be recycled and they all fit in the bed of my very standard 4 banger s10 and less than 1/3 of the those batteries were kinetiks, many were out of the pallet lifts and other brand batteries that were tested (this is just one load mind you). Many of the returns were flat out not installed correctly as they would take and hold a charge (load tested as well) and were then used in electric pallet lifts. Most of the returns where the cell was bad sent to me ended up being hc600's and hc800's hooked up into systems that had SEVERAL thousands of watts and the 600-800 were the only battery in back which was well above and beyond Kinetiks recommendations + what was explained in training. I also built some mod banks when I was there and many of those won at various spl world finals in DB Drag, USACI and I do believe MECA. I would run a dual battery system. I would make that system a matched set of batteries (not just same brand). Sure wire will cause indifferences between the front and back battery but why would making the difference gap wider with different batteries be an improvement? When I competed from 1990-1998 I only had 1 battery fail on me at a show and that was at 1997 IASCA world finals and that is the only show I didn't trophy or at least win a top 3 prize at a non sanctioned events. That battery was a red top suggested to me by a local battery shop. Back then in IASCA SQ you more times than not had above trophy level turn out. At SBN I had 19+ cars in my class and at Midwest Nationals I also had 20+ cars in my class. IIRC the smallest turn out my class had at an IASCA show I attended inbetween 1996 to 1998 was 8 (single point event).Top 5 got points/trophies.

Been running mine at 14.6-14.85 v for 5 + years

I would do 2 hc1800 if you choose to go kinetik.

Couple guys in my home town run a hc1800+an hc1200 in back for 1860 watts and another runs a KR5112 up front and a KR1212 in back for 1900 watts, the first is on a 105 amp stock alt and the later ran the fall with a stock 110 amp alt but has a new 240 amp alt to put on in the spring.

Looks like it would work out pretty good. I put my 1400 under the hood in Feb 2005 and it still works out fine.

• Mixing Different Battery Technologies Kinetik Power Cells are compatible with most standard 12 volt charging systems and battery technologies. We do however advise using Kinetik Power Cells exclusively throughout the vehicle for maximum voltage, performance and longevity of aftermarket electronics as well as the Power cells. This will minimize self discharging of the power storage devices in the vehicle while not in use also. Kinetik Power Cells have a very low self discharge rate much lower than that of a standard ‘wet cell’ car battery. When different types of power storage devices (batteries or Power Cells) are used in parallel in an electrical system, current will have a tendency to flow between storage devices unnecessarily resulting in heat build up and loss of power where it is needed most. When Kinetik Power Cells are used throughout the install, current will flow directly from the Power Cells to the load in a balanced manner minimizing ‘fighting’ between unlike storage devices. Kinetik High Current Power Cells Thank you. I remember reading that, just wanted someone's personal ' war story' about the issue. guess ill scrap the cheap battery and run only the kinetik and see how it works out. dont want to damage anything.. im trying to do this right, so keeping with the spirit ill stay with one type of battery. sure it would work if i didnt.. but doing this install half ass isnt what im going for. if not ill just buckle down and buy another kinetik (even though ive been hearing bad about them lately).. thanks again It is better to go matched size as well as brand. The farther away you get in specs of the batteries the harsher the end result can be. My old SQ comp car I sold in 1999 or 2000 ended up getting the back seats taken out with a wall of 8 12's put in. The system consisted of 12 st and later mc 300 memphis amplifiers. It had 1 amp bridged to each sub and 3 more bridged to each 8" memphis sync (1 was a center channel) with the last amp ran in stereo to another pair of 8"syncs behind the front seats.1 hcpower 2000 (that was before they changed their name to kinetik) under the hood and 3 more in back lasted at least 8 years and it was a comp/show car for the shop for 5+ years all off one Ohio gen 190 amp alt.

• Mixing Different Battery Technologies Kinetik Power Cells are compatible with most standard 12 volt charging systems and battery technologies. We do however advise using Kinetik Power Cells exclusively throughout the vehicle for maximum voltage, performance and longevity of aftermarket electronics as well as the Power cells. This will minimize self discharging of the power storage devices in the vehicle while not in use also. Kinetik Power Cells have a very low self discharge rate much lower than that of a standard ‘wet cell’ car battery. When different types of power storage devices (batteries or Power Cells) are used in parallel in an electrical system, current will have a tendency to flow between storage devices unnecessarily resulting in heat build up and loss of power where it is needed most. When Kinetik Power Cells are used throughout the install, current will flow directly from the Power Cells to the load in a balanced manner minimizing ‘fighting’ between unlike storage devices. Kinetik High Current Power Cells

I always look at it from the standpoint its not where the electrical starts from it is where it ends up being for what I want it to do when I want to do it. I listen to my stereo longer than a few seconds even when I listen to it turned up usually it is at least the length of a whole song and maybe most of a cd. Totally different than listening to a test tone, totally different than constant load test that runs down to 7.2v because the output to music will have many peaks and valleys instead of a straight load. Some people like pressing their luck dropping down to 9.5v on a burp to get every last db on a limited by rule battery system. Might be good IF you have factory support and they are at your contest with spares but would suck otherwise. When shows were bigger you could always count on a few amplifiers emitting the magic smoke. Since you are already beyond a "magic" limit of batteries and you already know your system can draw more than your alt having reserve is a good thing. Most of the choices you listed will work thing is if you plan on parking it for demos.

http://www.kinetikracing.com/downloads/kinetik_performance_racing_series_flyer_web.pdf Some high horsepower race cars use the Kinetik KR912 in their Camping World race trucks and such which is the same as the HC800 and it starts up a 700-800 hp engines. The thing is if you have a smaller capacity battery and it gets taxed doing odds and ends with accessories on daily driver street cars, those loads are draining it more deeply than it would larger batteries. The 2 things that wear a battery out are cycles and more importantly the depth of those cycles.

How much can you get Odyssey pc1750's for? stinger 1700 vs powermaster 2700 Most Prefered Street A battery 650cu in? Also going off of specs that runs the battery down well past 9v doesnt really say too much about what it can do for audio especially since they are at an unusable/dangerous for amplifier voltage usually in a second or less. Also with what is listed the deka set up should do pretty well parked and handle burps well.

My alt stays between 14.7 and 14.9 (has for 5 years) and I am still on the same 1400.