audiolife

something like a kinetik 1400 or 1800 wouldn't be too bad

Terra-liner

1. How old are you? 37 2. When did you get into car audio? intrested 1986- installed 1989 3. How did you first get into car audio? Buying Targa power boosters and 6x9's 4. Whats your favorite color- red 5. Male or female? Male 6. Your first Car? 84 1/2 ford escort ended up with 27 mb quart/jl audio speakers and 4 amps LOL 8. How did you find out about this site? Sold an amp here some years ago 9. What was your first system? aiwa tape deck targa booster and 4 6x9's then moved on and up weekly 11. Were do you live? Lowcash 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? too many 15. Who is our hero in the car audio industry? They retired from it 16. Whats your dream system? 2 usd super A 2 10" IDW and 1 IDW 18 17. Whats your dream car? Corvette 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? late 80's cosworth corvette, coolest was my dad's 67 vette 427 tri power 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? CAC (local shop) 20. What is your job? Electrical construction 21. Whats your favorite saying? What? 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars? Too many good cars and of those makers they all make something i hate 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? Cars 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? MadMat 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? All have experiences 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? 149.9 (AC 160) 2 IDW 15's 4 ohm on a modded SS 6.0 33. SQ or SPL? why? SQ because i like music

if they do get a lot louder one amp is well under 750 watts or the 1000 watt amp is well over 1000 watts.

interesting, my fathers big arsed deisel 4x4 ford truck has used kinetik for 2 winters(bought used) since the stockers died..it took 2 as it replaced 2 batteries and they operated the snow plow on the truck flawlessly in the winter pulling double duty. Since he switched trucks due to fuel being what it was one now resides in his work truck and the other operates a bobcat. Both get used heavy in the winter and to my knowledge neither has failed yet, which for the bobcat says alot imo because you could not let it set for a week without hooking it up to a charger. My 1400 has survived under the hood going on 4 winters now and late january-early march MANY a day/night weeks at a time it stayed under 10 degrees and it has never failed. Multi cells are not legal in street A so an 8400 is illegal. Most guys that are serious about street A run odyssey 1850 or NSB75 and I have seen a few kinetik 2000's. Heard of people using HX400's in street B and 2 in street C but not 300's in street A (doesn't mean they do not just means they don't say so.)

If you went Kinetik you should go an HC1200 or bigger for a 1500 watt amp. 800 imo is too small.

Were you going to add the 800 in back?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13166_Kinetik+HCSPA.html you can add these to a kinetik 1800 or 2000 to make them side posts

I would go bigger 1400-1800 or get 2-3 600's

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13554_...ontrol+DQX.html - eq and 3 way crossover -active digital http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7197_A...OR-+WHITE-.html -eq and 2 way xover -active analog

Ohio gen http://www.ohiogen.com/html/catalog.html

the % of the distortion would have to be higher than full percentages..back in the 90's people used to put "junk amps" in expensive (blown) amp heat sinks and all of the sudden their systems magically sounded better to those who didn't know any better...you can indeed tune 2 different amplifiers to sound VERY identical especially if you bypass eq's and x overs that come on the units (which with digital processing avalible why wouldn't you use analog?)...you can agree to disagree but for the most part this has been hashed out over and over again without a definite winning side....in that case what does that also say???

all the more reason IMO all the fuddy dud issues about getting every watt out of a 2000 watt amp unless you do db drag is pointless...every .1 of a volt is not going to be audible and does not will not mean you will automatically gain fractions of a db. Three db is also a little high on 2 times the power..perfect hearing can tell 1 db differences but generally speaking 2+ db would be needed to tell the difference in a daily driver .... And with no reference (ie a good span of time in between) you can't even hear a 3dB shift. I also get very amused over chasing tenths of a volt, but I also don't care about SPL at all. Me either really..amplifiers were designed to operate within a voltage range. I care more about it working and to be able to tell a performance increase by listening to an actual performance increase than to have to use a meter that tells me if I am louder by (.2db) LOL

all the more reason IMO all the fuddy dud issues about getting every watt out of a 2000 watt amp unless you do db drag is pointless...every .1 of a volt is not going to be audible and does not will not mean you will automatically gain fractions of a db. Three db is also a little high on 2 times the power..perfect hearing can tell 1 db differences but generally speaking 2+ db would be needed to tell the difference in a daily driver ....

Eh... Eh... Didn't want to go there hush tube boy!

http://www.analogrules.com/dbwatts.html good read

yup joined it a long time ago and came back because i had to get info on a sub i bought like 4 years ago from ascendant audio.

dual alt would be the best way to go. 1 for 12v (14v) the other 16v (18v) dedicated to the audio system regardless which system you ran, you would/ could need 2 modules. if so you are already looking at $180 - $300 depending where you get them. that money could be applied to a dual alt bracket. those modules are rated at 25 amps continuous 50 amps max each. Might be great for a race car but for a daily car i would think running the dual alts would be better reguardless which 16v battery you use...be it a powermaster, turbo start, kinetik or a v battery. All your alt power from your high output alt goes to your audio system.

if you want "easy kick arse" get a set of boston spz's hooked up to a 4 channel 100x4 amp bridged...if you go active make sure you have the equipment to cross everything over to run proper. active will give you more tuning options and can potentially sound better..how much better depends on how much money and work you want to throw at it.

look into odyssey pc1200's-pc2150's you might get them for less and the warranty is 2 years longer..also think you would find them to be very simular

wow considering one is 20 lbs heavier than the other and slight size difference can you say they are just the same sized battery? kind of like comparing a deka g 31 to a odyssey 2150 or another g31 sized battery.

thankies!

thanks i had the info at one time lol lost it in a reformat

Is the atlas 12 able to be used in an IB set up for car audio? I can't find any of the old specs.

i know there are plenty of people who use kinetik with many different brands of highoutput alts and have used them both under the hood for YEARS without an issue. 14.3 is THE standard charge voltage for agm cells btw. "Lead acid batteries have different charging requirements based on their specific design. Flooded and maintenance free batteries require a higher voltage per cell than do sealed valve regulated types such as AGM and gel-cell batteries. Overcharging will reduce the life of any battery as sealed valve regulated batteries are especially sensitive to high charging voltages and overcharging. Overcharging an AGM or gel-cell battery will cause permanent damage. The proper charging level can be selected by means of a battery type switch on the front panel." "CAUTION: Use the correct battery type at all times. Do not charge AGM & Gel-cell batteries in the