kirill007

This, What do you mean with having the gains on 50%?

So this is going to be like caraudio.com?

Uuhm, make that a atleast 300amp alt, the T4000.1's are really power hogs.(they use a lot of current, they have like a 500amp fuse i think)

Aww, damn i was about to post that.

You can see in the manual what the positive and negative is. The 2 inputs under the remote power distribution block is the negative, the other 2 are the positive. (and you really shouldn't use the cap, it does more harm then good.)

Sorry 95Honda, you're probably a very smart man but you used low power drivers that don't have cooling features like most subwoofers do have. Most subwoofers use a (sophisticated) technique to guide the air thru holes/vents to cool the coil. They are the most effictive when used with a sine wave instead of a square (or clipped) wave. What moves the most air a square wave or a sine wave?(which one moves the air more efficient?) Think about a fan , if u have a fan that moves 100cu ft/min, if which will be more efficient: if the fan moves the air, then stops for a second and starts again Or the one that keeps moving air around. It's harder for the fan to move the air because it stopped , and the fan which moves the air all the time doesn't has the problem thus cooling more effectivly. (this is in theory, just pure fysics, you have done a test i think noone ever did and i respect it, but it not correctly done, because you used 170hz which almost doesn't moves air, you can't apply it to SUBwoofers.)

Well, if everybody says their opinion about car audio shops in general in this thread and then you show him this thread. Maybe he will change his mind. Most car audio shops don't install correctly, and the good ones are hard to find. And most of the shops that say they are proffesional aren't. PS, i would be surprised if they would let you watch while they are installing.

You forget one thing, when the sub is playing a square wave the cooiling will be less effective thus lowering thermal power handling.(but other then that i agree 110% with you.)

LOL, please stay away from the "other" forum.(it's probably caraudio.com) Scott and Nick know what they do, if the subs would have coil rub or more mechanical noise they wouldn't relaese it to the public.(that's why Steve Meade got the first pairs, to test/abuse them) The have a special mouting thing on the back for it to mount otherways then sub up. Don't think it has more mechanical noise then a RE XXX, or other high excursion subwoofers, you wouldn't hear the mechanical noise anyways.(the sound that the subwoofes produce would be waaaaaaaayyy louder then mechanical noise.)

You might want to reword that, your contradicting yourself. Having an amp with less rms then your subwoofer is not a problem at all unless you push the amp past its limits. That's what i meant, i just can't write it down.(i'm from Belgium )

(wtf, i can't edit my posts. hmmm.) Jay-cee, you have succesfully thread-jacked this thread.

So what's your recommended tuning? I mostly listening to rap, RnB and techno/trance/house. If you listen the most to technp/trance/house, then 37hz would be perfect. But if you listen more to rap, and like to have lot's of lows, then 33hz would be better.

Competitors also use a big battery bank because there are classes where the car should be off. I would always advise a alt, because that's what makes power, not the batts they only store it. And most battery's have a floating voltage of around 12.8V or 13V.(some a bit more)

Love the marshall amps. Underpowering a speaker cannot harm it. Like KU40 said, if you put the volume down the amp will not keep sending 250 watts. Only thing that kills speakers if u use a amp with lower RMS then the sub, is clipping.(know how to set the gains and use no bassboost, and also know where you're HU starts clipping.)

Around 1000$ sometimes more, sometimes less, but you need to buy them at a shop that sells Asendant Audio.

You want it to sound good, but you tune it to 37hz? I don't know if the 12 would handle the 4k w RMS in a 2.5cu ft enclosure.(maybe if you're responsible with it)

Why would you want T/S parameters? Just use the recommended port area/tuning/airspace they recommend and then change boxes if u wan't it to sound better. If they would post T/S parameters for all the subs with all the upgrades, then they would have like 10 T/S parameters per sub. They already have 36 different T/S parameters. If they would make T/S parameters for every sub with it's own upgrade they would have over 100+ different T/S parameters.

No, he said all the options you can wire a dual 2 and dual 1 to. Dual1=0.5ohm or 2ohm Dual2= 1ohm or 4 ohm. Look at the 12volt site like bigrank916 said. Search for subwoofer wiring.

To answer the title: Sealed box and a lot of cone area. So you're box is 6.5cu ft NET? Then around 130-138 sq inches would be perfect.

Nails (long nails, atleast 2.5 inch long.), and wood glue would work good. The screws only hold the box together till the glue dries.

I don't think the a tube amp will make a subwoofer sound better. I don't know current pricing on tube amps, but i think 150$ is a too low budget. Where i live most (cheap) tube amps cost 400-500 dollar.

What's you're budget? Because you sure as hell couldn't afford a SMD, if you choose 500W amps...

Still, tune higher, atleast 40hz. No need to tune that low. Only if you would use it for Home Theater. Also make the port wider, because if you have a 1" thin port it will have port noise. Atleast 4 inch wide for the 4 L5's.

X2 How did you set you're gains? With a Oscope, a DMM or by ear?