Jay-C76

It's the same thing as Dynamat, this just isn't labeled yet.. I found a guy, who knows a guy.....since the plant is about 20 minutes away from me.... It's just not available whenever I please...

LOL... Never noticed the face until you said that...

Infinity 2-way 6x9's, countersunk to match subs. and the shelfs down the side serve three purposes... To hide cabling and give a clean look, help to brace side panels, provide mounting for secondary battery.

That was pretty funny! I clicked and watched hoping for the obviouse.... then BOOM, Steve amazed me again! Never guessed he'd do that!!!! LOL On another note I did get some more work done today on the enclosure. But, first I had to dry fit this sucker, plot and measure some things, yank it back out, and all by myself..... Now it's on to starting the rear 6x9 boxes and battery shelf. I still have a lot more detail to add to the sides.... The next time this puppy fits into the rear the solid shell has to come off and be put back on. It's an exact fit....dang near needs Crisco to fit in there!

10-20 bucks a year...... Should be no problem for most to come up with... At 20 bucks it's only a nickle a day!!! I'd paypal it as soon as you offered this up!! I like this site a lot! It's a huge, informative place!! I tip my hat to the work Mark and others have done to bring us this cool forum! Viva SSA!!!

Whoa!!! That's a solid looking sub!!! Very nice!!

Ooooo! That would be fun!!!! I'd have to do it on the same day the new one would be getting put in... I bet it would blow out!

Thanks! How do y'all like the split in the windshield???? I have to get that fixed before I unleash these Icon's!!

LMAO!!!! You always have some colorful words! I feel really dumb sometimes b/c I have to look some word up! LOL Nice picture there Ray Bans!!! You know I was going to tease you on that......LOL

Now there's one nice piece of furniture!!! LOL It's huge!!!

Nice!!! Two thumbs up!!!

Put the final coat of primer on the port today, worked on the amp rack, and finally fined the sound deadening in the rear! Tomorrow's my 33rd B-day and it's supposed to be sunny and 70!! I have the whole day to myself so I can get some good work done!!

A R/F T1500-1bd on 1 ohm... Two dual 1 ohm coil subs FTW...

If I had a garage..... I'm at war with the weather on this one! LOL MDF loves rain! Soaks it up like a sponge...then swells to twice the size... NTM I won't let anyone else help me do "actual" work on my install... I like to hog all the fun myself! :-) Hope to have a few more pics of progress by this weekend.

Sweet!!!

I usually rip strips for the corner bracing.. Rip a few when building, just try to keep a real straight line or you'll have gaps during assembly. Corner bracing generally takes up very little displacement too. Miter's are easy once you get the angles right. Actually the ball wouldn't sound "dead".. With the less angles and degree of banking (like found in standard designs) there is minimum loss of energy... Everytime something banks at an angle, it loses energy due to impact. It's very drastic with a 90 degree angle, less with 2 - 45 degree angles b/c the amount of initial impact is at a smaller angle each time. even less with 3 - 30 degree angles (but who has the time for the skill level this demands) Optimal would be a smooth radius 90 degree angle..like a curve.. I build all of my enclosure with a circular saw so I know cuts can be a B!@$&..... A table saw would be real nice but I haven't the space for a woodshop...

It can and most likely will. unless severly underpowered rms to the sub.

window bracing is kinda like it sounds...like a window pane... Using this style bracing inside the enclosure usually reflects the sound waves in the enclosure resulting in a physical loss of energy. The ideal design would be a perfect ball due to the lack of banked angles.. The problem is, there's no way to actually do this using wood... Unless you are an absolute Lumber Lord!! LOL edge and corner bracing is easiest with 45degree angle cuts.. but, miter the corners....

The larger the area of the port opening, the less velocity the air will have exiting the port. Circular ~vs~ slot....may be the same results, usually not b/c slot ports are designed to have a larger opening to cut down on the "huffing" sound of the port. Aeroports utilize a flared opening on both ends to disperse the air in a wider less focused path. Be carefull not to cut the velocity too much as this can drastically harm the woofer's performance and ability to fire correctly. If it were me building I'd use a slot ported design anyday over any aeroport or circular port. The main factor in design would be that the slot port will have a much larger displacement to factor into the final internal volume. Having a sub in the "right" enclosure usually means: Manufacturer specs. of net volume maintained, all displacements calculated (added) into the internal volume, (sub, bracing, port displacements) port (if any) properly tuned, (length, port area, proper opening ratio usually I use 7" to 1" ratio) assembled properly using correct glues and accurate cuts..

Thank you! Wait till you see it wrapped and finished! I hope to test fit everything tomorrow.

I'd hate to see what that's going to cost for shipping!!! LOL Nice work once again!

If it wouldn't rain everytime I get to work on this it'd be done by now! Well, I did manage about an hour and a half of time after I got off work today.... So, I put the port in primer an drilled out my wire locations on the amp rack, plotted and drilled all the pilot holes and dropped in some threaded inserts. More rain forcasted for me this week off and on. I hope to get some work done in between the showers!

WoW!! That's going to scramble your brains inside there!!

Nice! Can't wait to see some pics!

Welcome!! Can't wait to see them pics!!