Jay-C76

Simple physics really.... Energy is lost if anything has to bank at a 90 angle Less energy is lost if the banking is split into smaller angles to achieve the 90. Ideal would be a smooth radius 90.

It helps to deflect soundwaves...No 90degree angles.. On the port it helps deflect the air more smoothly into the port. Inside the port it keeps the throat the same dimensions when the port changes angles. It's very worth it to do. It also helps to brace the seems of the enclosure.

I needed a little more rms wattage than the Rockford Fosgate speakers. I went with Infinity Reference series 6x9's .... 100rms I run two 3-ways up front and two 2-way in the rear. On a R/F T400-4 these puppies scream loud and clear!

Well it was your swift kick in the arse that got me here! lol I like this place, lots and lots of info here..... Especially about my new favorite subs SSA!

Yep 3 years of saving money!! I bought most of the gear last summer. It's been killing me just looking at it sitting in boxes. I'll have mass pics as soon as I get cranking on it again. I left off with the Big 3 and some layout ideas. Got the enclosure basically nailed out on TermPak, and I might get to start on the enclosure this weekend. Although there's still a lot of wires to run in the cab.

After saving for dang near 3 years, I finally get to do my install. Here's a list of the toys: 2 - 15" Icon D1 1 - R/F T15001bd 4 - Infinity Ref. 6x9's 1 - R/F T400-4 1 - JVC KDSH1000 H/U 1 - 260 amp H/O Iraggi Alternator 1 - Stinger SP1000 Battery (under the hood) 1 - Stinger SP1700 Battery (in the rear) 3 - Stinger 12ft. RCA 1 - Stinger Inline ANL Fuse holder 1 - Stinger 0ga. to 2-4ga. fused ANL distribution block 1 - Stinger 0ga. to 4-4ga. distribution ground block 2 - Stinger 8ga. Tee distribution blocks (for the sub wires) 2 - Stinger Shock Chrome dual ring battery terminals 2 - Soundquest single ring battery terminals A lot of Soundquest Shock Chrome crimp ring terminals (soldered not crimped ) Many, many, many feet of 1/0gauge, 4gauge, 8 gauge, 12 gauge Stinger HPM cables Big 3 done all in Stinger HPM 1/0guage and 4gauge. (did that last year) Over 200sq.ft. of dampening mat (3 different companies ) I have everything except the Icon's....UPS man brings them Thursday!! Here's some pics of the gear! For under the hood. Secondary for the rear. 1/0ga. power, 8ga. sub wire, 12ga. speaker wire. Iraggi 260 amp H/O alt. Most of the terminals and distributions..(shock chrome) Infinity Ref. 6x9's T400-4 powering the 6x9's T15001bd powering the Icons The H/U Stinger RCA (3 pair) Most of the rear covered in soundmat... Big 3 done in Stinger 1/0ga. and 4ga. (all soldered) Now all I need is some nice warm days to work on it!!!

darvex.com I do all my install work through them. Trail is a good guy who will dang near bend over backwards to hook you up proper. With a H/O alternator you'll want the biggest gauge you can run. I recommend 1/0 with 4ga. tied into the fuse box, starter, you know the rest....

I'd say it's the ground location then. Like I said, I'm 99% positive on this one. Gotta leave 1% for error! LOL

I like trying to help! Plus it's a learning experience to read about other's problems. Them Gremlins are everywhere just waiting to booger up an install! It's half the fun tweeking out the bugs!

Or atleast it's a start in the right direction. It the amp getting hot in any way?

I've seen the problem happen at least a couple dozen times... It's a very common mistake. (One of the most common) A lot of people just don't know, I didn't at first either. Since i've done it the righ way for years now, I've never had a problem and it fixes this issue every time.

Cheap way... Wrap it around a mounting bolt on a seat..(shine it all up first) At least the bolt is threaded into the frame. Correct way... drill a hole, add a grommet through the wall or floor then find a good spot, easy to get to, drill a hole either through or thread (tap) into the frame, clean it up till it shines, slap a ring terminal on the end of the wire, use a stainless bolt with washer. Sheetmetal grounds are good for things like lights and acc. that's about it.

Needs to be grounded to chassis (Frame) of car not the sheetmetal body! The sheetmetal doesn't carry the same resistance as the chassis. I bet 99% that's the problem.

I'll be watching!!

Nice gear! When are you going to start gutting the van?

I would but I'm waiting on 15's... Great deal on these though! They'll sell quick I'm sure!

Try to keep them 30" or under is what most manufacturers say. Can you tap through the floor to the frame anywhere in the trunk? I've found in most cases as long as you have a GOOD, CLEAN connection to the frame (chassis) of the vehicle, you usually won't pick up any ground hum or current loss. You're ground is just as important as the power feed. Any poor connections will introduce unwanted results.

Thanks to all! This place looks cozy! Lots of goodies to read up on! I'd have to say my first impressions are that this is one of the best forums I've seen by far! You guys do some nice work on here! :bigclap:

We won't be dissappointed I'm sure! Nice blanket of snow there! LOL

I know a dealer.... and I'm glade that I heard about SSA i have been vary impressed so far I can't wait to hear my first SSA sub in person!

Hello to all! I'm here to learn what I don't know. I look forward to sharing ideas and learning lots of new tricks! I Mod for poundthatsound.com on a devoted basis. The Lord of the Double Flare, Thumpper led me through the woods of deception, and to the promissed land of SSA. I hope to be tossing the my first pair into my install very soon. Hope to make you all proud! :bigclap:

Through a well known little site called Pound That Sound. Thumpper's the man who got me itching for a pair of SSA's.