tripslipfall

That's not how it works. The baffle is what isolates the front and rear wave. The rear wave is not exiting through the vent, in fact it's not exiting at all, nor is the air in the vent or the enclosure. It's simply being excited by the rear of the driver just as it is in a sealed enclosure. The air in the vent and enclosure is still a spring, not a pump. Think of it this way. Take your hand and wave it in front of your face. You feel the air correct? Is the air moving? No, it's simply being excited by your hand. This is how sound is created. Now stand in front of a fan. That is taking air from one spot and physically moving it to another, essentially pumping air. The front and rear waves are still out of phase, as is the vent, but not 180 degrees, so cancellation is not an issue. Your idea may work, but it will take some testing. It will not be optimal that is for sure as you have the driver on an actual vent wall, but many systems have been designed to couple the output of the vent and the cone at the same spot. Think JL's Pro Wedge, or whatever they are called, enclosures. This has been done many times for years and years; it's nothing new. Man I love this site, it's so helpful, I've learned so much from it.

How do you draw curves in Sketchup? Like you did with the port.

12"s would probably be much louder, depending on how you build the box, and they're only $10 more, so get 12"s.

Do you have any videos of your system? Links please?

For one SSD or two?

Poor woofer. How's it holding up, is it dry?

Alright, I guess I'll just have to find another way.

Well the only thing I have is 1", I have a small piece of 3/4" I can use for the front, I made the box using RE Audio's L Port calculator, and then I drew it in Google Sketch-up. I'm not really sure where it's gonna go either, either in the trunk of a 95 T-Bird or the back of a 93 Suburban, I'm not worried about the sides being in the way, because the subs are really small and I made the cut outs a little big in sketch-up anyways. Here's what I get with your calculator. And here's what I get with RE's.

I'm thinking about making a box for some older Rockford RFP1408's that I have, they are 200 watts RMS each, the only wood I have is a 30"x60" sheet of 1" MDF and another smaller sheet of 3/4" MDF. So, I'm gonna use the 1" sheet for most of the box, and the small 3/4" sheet for the front. 1.25 Cubic feet 1" x 11" port tuned to 33hz What do you think?

So is the problem fixed?

It's Google Sketch-Up, it's free. Awesome program.

I wish I knew how. Are there any tutorials or anything explaining how to do it?

That doesn't seem to be the case with me, I notice everything around the box vibrates more than the box itself, go crank up your system, and feel how much your box vibrates, then feel everything else around it, so far every time I've done that, the box vibrates the least.

Yes, go, hurry!

Anything new?

What should I do with them? They are RFP-1408's, I bought them off Craigslist a while back for $30, now they're just collecting dust, what should I do with them?

I myself have no idea how to do it, my uncle is doing it though, he's drilling out all the spot welds, and the rest of the frame is fine, passenger side fender got smashed a bit, but I already got another one. Already bought: Passenger side fender Driver's side window (someone broke in and stole my Rockford BD1500.1 ) Rearview mirror Headlights Header panel Left blinker Still need: Hood Windshield Core support A/C Condenser Right blinker

I just use Tinypic. But if you're uploading more than one picture, use Photobucket, someone else might be able to provide you with a better site.

Ahahahahahaha, that made my day.

Delete this topic, double posted it somehow... Here's the actual thread.

I posted a thread about it on ford-forums, please read it and let me know if you can help. http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-thunderbird/32883-please-help-1995-ford-thunderbird-lx-front-end-damage.html

How the hell did that happen?

Was it the same cable that Cable Yard has?

Happy birthday!

Here's pics.