nigel

try them all and see which gives you the best response. That's what this hobby is all about, getting to try different things.

thanks all. like said above, might get a minute tonight to look at this but probably not, 12 hr shift tommorow followed by a union meeting and vote on a new contract, then camping for the weekend so progress from here is going to be slow.

very nice.

he's very expensive. very, very expensive. But worth every penny at the same time. The little one in post #7 really wants to help too, but he's not quite able yet. Both love music, tools and anything I do, so I have many fun years ahead. thanks for the views and replies, hopefully get back at this next week, rest of this one is gonna be too busy.

ok, that makes sense then. again, the workmanship looks phenomenal.

ok, some evening progress to post up: Front, back, one side, and bottom glued, screwed and nailed. The little helper was awesome.

In my SUV what I did to secure the sealed enclosure I have in it was to take some flat stock steel from the local hardware store that had holes in it, bolted it through one of the UAS? (UAL?) anchors (meant for securing infant/child seats) and secured it to the box with a bolt and t-nut. Like this here: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/papc-1-3-8x36-slt-flats-zinc/956909

is that a shotgun propping the trunk open?

just showed that last pic to my 5 year old and told him isn't that beautiful? his reply, "no, it's handsome" and then explained because it looked masculine... love the box, looks awesome.

box looks good. Nice workmanship. Why the green and red though? just out of curiosity. Wondering how it fits with the rest of the vehicle.

so pieces that I got cut today are: Top, bottom, front, back, and 1 side (messed up the other one), but, I no longer have one massive sheet of mdf taking up all of the space in my garage... Still to go: other side, inside port walls, bracing, cut hole for sub and assembly. So my big question at this point: Should I make the port serpentine, or L shaped? is there an advantage of one over the other?

so, some of today's progress: So at this point, I noticed that when I was drawing my lines for my cuts at 10 last night, The outside of the box on the port side that was supposed to be 3/4 of an inch longer than the opposing side I measured wrong. For some reason I marked 16.25" instead of 17.25" oops.... So I am going to need to go to my other supplies to get a piece big enough to cut a new one, but that's ok, since the piece I measured to short I can still use to cut to the right size to make on of my port walls, so that's fine. Also, I would've been able to get more done today, but this guy tried volunteering his assistance: So I had to keep stopping... Will be on 12 hour shifts the next two, then camping for the weekend, so, likely no more progress till next week.

well, looks like this is the box that I will be building, started a thread in the build logs section, picked up the wood yesterday, have most of the pieces marked on it last night.

roof rack is awesome. put anything up there. It's an RE SEX 15. Yes, plenty of room, so when the helper is old enough and we want to we have something to compete with. The vehicle is a nissan x-trail. Was only available in canada in 2005,2006 plus in europe and australia. Nissan never released a U.S. version of it. Great little SUV and reliable. Was replaced by the rogue which has half the cargo room and is all angles in the back.

so as i said in my other post in the fab section, I got a little money for my birthday, so some of it went towards this: So, out with the old sealed: Here's the helper that I've enlisted: Now just to finalize the plans. Aiming for ~4 cubes at 34 Hz, Sub up still, port back. Still have some other left over MDF in the garage, so I should have enough wood now.

it will roll of beginning at 29 hz, depending on the amps ssf setting, either 12,18 or 24 db per octave. This is to help prevent your subwoofer from unloading below tuning frequency of the enclosure and damaging its suspension/coil. Once you begin playing below tuning, you now longer have back pressure inside the enclosure to assist in keeping the cone/motor assembly from driving rearward and bottoming out against the backplate/extreme limits of the suspension depending on driver design, likewise when moving forward, nothing to assist in over excursion other than the suspension. If constantly pushing the sub past it's limits below tuning, it will prematurely wear and cause early failure.

ok, so using the calculation that stefanhinote posted in the how good is your port thread pinned above, using these measures with an input power of 600 watts, it gives me a vent mach percentage of.029341853811 He stated most people shoot to aim for less than .045, so I should be good to go, or is that mach too low?

guess I should give a goal for it as well. This is my daily driver vehicle. Will not be competing of any kind, rest of the speakers in the vehicle are stock at the moment, and are sufficient enough for now. May down the road change the fronts to a component set, but that won't be for a while. Just looking to pick up the bottom end some. Currently running the sub in a sealed enclosure, just looking to get a little more oomph out of it, nothing crazy, was originally bought with the intention of building a ported enclosure but that was for a different vehicle that is no more. Listen to just about everything music wise, country, rock, rap, pop, techno/house etc...

no it's not. He was a true role model. Very professional officer and supervisor. Had the respect of everyone who worked with him or trained under him. I had the fortune of doing both and will always remember the times I've dealt with him in a positive manner.

ok, 18mm linear xmax one way 810 cm^2 Sd Bl of 17.7 Fs of 22 Hz Qes .55 Qms 4.3 Qts .49 VAS 209 liters 88 Db spl 1w/1m Would this help?

RE SEX 15, thought maybe I could leave that out since most on here don't like RE and there is no money in the budget to change the sub.

okay, well I got some money for my birthday, and was thinking of picking up some mdf to build a ported enclosure for the SUV. Single 15" sub off of 600 watts. mfg reccomended optimal enclosure is 4 cubic ft. tuned to 34 Hz. My max dimensions available are 38.5" W x 24" D x 18" H Here's what I was thinking: 38.5" wide by 18" high by 18" deep (outside measures, using .75" mdf) Sub up, port back. Port 16.5" high by 4" wide by 28" long (acoustical, physical 23.25" since it will have a bend) gives a gross volume of 5.82 cubic ft, net of 4.24 cubic ft after subwoofer and port displacement, tuning of 33.8 Hz will be adding some bracing but not enough to bring tuning above 34 Hz Questions are: For 600 watts power level on a 15" sub, will 66 square inches of port area be enough? Or will I be choking it and causing "chaffing"? If not what port surface area range do I want to be in? Thanks in advance for your advice/help.

I bought them on presale before SBN 2012 but I went overseas for my job for 13 months and never hooked them up. I will be switching to Incriminator Amps very shortly but i will only be going with two. Guess what they will be! 80.1's? gonna send me those skar's for guessing correctly? My boat needs a new anchor...

I would suggest finding a way to secure the enclosure to prevent it from tipping, rather than rely on shape. If you were to end up in an accident, if it's not secured it could really do some damage. This would be my first priority.

came in to work to find out a colleague/mentor/trainer passed away yesterday of a heart attack at age 53 while cutting firewood with his son. Very sullen mood. He taught myself and many others at the staff college when in training, was our lead firearms instructor for years, and all around great person. The type of guy you could talk to about anything, and was always there for everyone.