jcarter1885

If you have an aftermarket headunit in your car then yes you will need a pair of rca's for each amp so you can send signal to your amps. 10-12 gauge for subs 14 gauge for interior speakers

since you have to ask then run it at 2 0hms but it will be fine on 1 ohm as well if you set your gains right and can control the volume knob. Check out Audioque AQ1200D for amp alternative as well.

You should of just kept this in your old thread, no since in making two topics on the same thing.

Depends on a lot of factors such as box size, listening habits, goals and so on. Yeah they could take it but more information would be required to help us answer you but as long as you can set the gains right and your knowledgeable on how to control the volume know then you will be fine.

Calling is your best bet, nobody has one listed for my car anywhere online but as soon as I called DC Power that had one that will fit my application.

The Big 3 Wiring is adding wires to your factory wires to help out with your electricl, it consist of 3 wiring additions: 1. Negative battery terminal to cars chassis 2. Alternator Case or Engine Block to cars chassis 3. Positive battery terminal to alternator positive post http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/THE-BIG-3-t200.html&view=getnewpost

Yeah to his Mac from the sounds of it

He's gonna try to find happiness with you Duran, watch yo self

No you want hear the difference at all, if price doesnt matter then go with the SAE-1200D.

It shouldnt be a problem for his designer if he knows what he is doing, basically BanginGMC was just showing you an example of the box he designed for a recent build and not how yours will look. Just explain what you want and Im sure he will get you taken care of. BanginGMC, how much does he usually charge for designs? Thanks

Rule #1 of driver design compromises; Hoffman's Iron Law. I would be interested to see how he's rating the frequency response and what the sensitivity of these "pro audio" drivers are, as good low frequency response and high sensitivity are contradictory performance terms. This is the reason, based on the laws of physics that I can promise he did not defy, that most "pro audio" mids do not perform well at low frequencies. Their high sensitivity necessarily excludes them from having good low frequency response. Oh, and I would highly recommend against trying to run any 6.5"+ drivers up to or over (or anywhere close to) 5khz. Im definitely with you on what the sensitivity will be considering any pro audio drivers that are 6.5" dont have a low frequency response and if they do such as the Seleniums 6wp4's then they do lack a high sensitivity. Considering that is one of the paramters he left out Im thinking that he did that for a reason, knowing they would be lower than normal or whats expected. Im still curious to see what he has, it may fit my needs/goals or it may not. But thanks for your input as it is always helpful and eye opening to gullable individual like myself who is still learning more about speakers and how to decipher there T/S Parameters.

I doubt it considering the topic name has nothing to do with SMD subwoofer or the fact that is not even in either one of their sections

Are the batcaps your secondary batteries or is one your starting battery and the other you secondary battery. I find it hard to believe you have two Batcaps and still dropping like that, when I had an 800 alone as a secondary battery I was pushing close to 2000rms with small electrical issues (I know my alt is way smaller than a 300C). Give us more information on your install and make sure sub is D2 ohms and not D1 ohms that is wired to 0.5 ohms. Make sure it is wired right and take it out the box to see if it is. Just cause the shop did it doesnt mean they did it right (hopefully they did and it sis just some small issue). Have you done the Big 3?

Like said earlier for more information on the sub and how it works your better off asking a dealer or emailing Nick or Scott at Fi, they would know more than anyone else on a forum.

That will come down to box size and other things, dont assume cause you get the BP Power you can throw tons of power to the sub. Look at it as a sub that is rated at 1000 rms with more a little more thermal power handling then a stock SSD subwoofer.

What makes you say that, just curious?

, any amp that can produce 3000 rms or better but it will come down to your budget and a lot of other factors so more information would help out.

Well instead of adding a band aid then either show us some pictures of how it is wired or tell us how it is wired and we will be glad to make sure your you get it right before you cause damage to your car or equipment. First things first, do the Big 3 if you havent done it then make sure all your ground wires are grounded right (good ground spot, paint shaved off and so on). What electrical upgrades do you have at all if any? If your running on stock electrical then tell us what it consist of (battey and altenator size).

This should be stickied in the technical section for the Q's to prevent people from thinking that Cooling is a new alternative to BP Power, most people will read that Cooling will automatically give them more thermal power handling regardless of the application.

I appreciate you guys on your input and it will be taken into consideration, still waiting on your input Nate .

I Have a XXXXXXX watt sytem. What battery do I need? - SSA Car Audio Forum

Do it, do it

Cant wait for pictures and the video.

You might want to reword that, your contradicting yourself. Having an amp with less rms then your subwoofer is not a problem at all unless you push the amp past its limits.

The drivers definitely do look nice and they are real beefy, Im kinda suprised that they are pro audio mids that will drop that low (seems pretty impressive so far).