jcarter1885

That is one throwed ass Cartier, I seen one the other day without bang and rim; it was still fresh (I want me a Lincoln or Caddy to fix up one day).

You cant go wrong with either one just flip a coin and get which one you want, Im not a fan of ebay at all (I would rather buy the audioque one since your buying directly from who made it). just my .02, nobody can really tell you which one to get its now your decision.

I think it will work out fine but wont be what you are looking for at all in my opinion. From going to a 18" Q ported at 27Hz to a 18" Nightshade ported at 31Hz will still be complete opposites regardless of how low you tune a Nightshade but Im curious so keep me posted.

That would be smart if you could fit 3-15"s, the batteries, amps and still have room to let the air flow get around the box and into the cabin from the trunk.

x2, 2-15"s or 1-18" but to know exactly what can be done measurements of your trunk would be better than a picture.

I think the SAZ-3500D in the right hands will be fine for a BTL but if your just a beginner and dont know how to listen/smell or see signs of stress then you will blow equipment. A SAZ-3000D or SAZ-2000D will be fine in your case.

Thats the same thing I was thinking too, especially in his last topic he made (sounds like he is past confused).

x2000. The question is what are you going to be powering and what is your budget? Do you have the electrical to back these up also?

The resistance of the voice coils in ohms when measured in parallel and series, not really helpfull when looking at subs for purchasing.

Probably becuase it is not a low end monster like the sub you had before or are used to (not saying it cant hit the lows). I dont know why you bought one if your looking for a sub with an authorative bottom end that could get loud, I would of went with an Xcon but thats me.

Like I said it depends on your personal preference or if you want a true front stage like most people on this website (SQ guys). If you want an accurate front stage and like how concerts sound to you, all the sound coming from the front of you then only do a front stage. Im one of these individuals who tested the sound only in the front and then with it in the front and back, I did like just the one set up front but Im more of a surround type of guy. I like how it is in the club or movies, where the sound is all around you and thats what I want so I put me some speakers in my rear door but took out the ones for my rear deck to allow more bass into the cabin from the trunk. So like I say its up to you but most will tell you to ditch the rear fill, thats why I say it is personal preference. Just my .02

Only add an isolator between batteries if your going to be playing your system alot with the car off or you want to be on the extra safe side if your using two different brand batteries (but it isnt neccessary).

What do you mean hold their own, they're are gonna play music if thats what your asking? Go to different car audio shops and listen to speakers, thats the best way to find out what will suit your needs or get the job done (since everyones music preference and speaker output preference is not the same).

Doesnt go with the topic, he doesnt want someone to make the box for him or give him designs. He wants to know what will be the best box for his car, output wise without testing.

Well that doesnt make any sense at all, that you want to try to make different boxes to see which one will work better but you dont want to keep wasting wood. You gotta compromise or leave it how it is now, if you dont want to keep spending 60 then leave the box how it is. Once you find the loudest position then you dont have to keep testing but asking us is useless man, nobody can tell you since every car and isntall is different. The only person who can answer this for you is you and testing, so good luck.

try posting this pictures on here so we dont have to click on the link and look at them individually. Thankx

Yeah that will be your best bet since every install and car is different so nobody can really tell you then it all comes to down to personal listening preferences too.

Glad you could join us ; but to keep your topic open and posting priviledges, please read the new member guidelines and fix this topic so it is useful to you and others. Thankx

All these are budget amps, and you will get out of them what is expected. Get an amp that is within your budget, the power you need at the ohm load needed and flip a coin if you still cant decide. Nobody on here will be able to tell you which one is better unless they used all three and tested and Im pretty sure nobody has. These comparison threads are uselesss and the info giving is horrible, make better topics to help you and other users (otherwise mods will stop your posting priviledges, fyi).

I would go with the 5ft^3 tuned to 30-35Hz or whatever your preference is, just my .02

Big Jon, what are the pros and cons of circuit breakers?

Looks and seems to do justice, glad you like it.

Yeah you have it on the wrong wire or have your wires switched up thats all.

Well Damn, I dont have an answer for you on the circuit breaker size that big but curious on system info such as: numbers it is hitting, what vehicle, box specs? Any pictures, should be a good build log.

Ok I will go over it again incase others are confused...With my OLD cd player -- I would put the key in the ignition and turn it one click the cd player would turn on. When I started up the car it will stay on. When i turned the car off the cd player would stay on until I removed the key. With my NEW cd player -- I will have to manually turn it on and off every time I enter or exit the car My head unit does the same thing, I have a Kendwood and you cant even turn the radio on with the remote you have to hold down the source button on the head unit to turn it on and off. So different brands have different methods, if you want it to stay on then leave your head unit on when you turn the car off and pull the key out, so that way when you start the car on it will come on automatically.