jcarter1885

Im pretty sure he knows that, nobody even spoke on this so its way left field (he's asking about subwoofers, not what he shouldnt play his interior speakers down to).

Doesn't matter. It's OT, so pretty much anything goes. I know that its off topic, I was just wondering if he was going anywhere with it but nevermind.

Im pretty sure he already has high pass on those front speakers or they would have blown by now playing on low pass frequencies.

The question is what is the purpose of this topic, to find out who smokes and then what?

What kind of amp is that?

Well, I want something i can beat on. At the same time i'm not dumb, and wont be clipping the woofers and such. I'll have an extra batt for electrical and 2 runs of 1/0 wiring. On a single 12" and 1500rms I was able to burp a 140 @ 38hz and 139.2 on music. I wanna be able to burp around a 145 and music around 142ish Its not about clipping, its about sending to much power to subs. Contact the mach5audio by email if he doesnt respond on her but I dont see the point in giving those driviers more than a 1000rms, just my .02. It looks like you want something that can take a beating, you may want to look into something else.

As long as the load of the speakers is less than the amp load then your cool, 1.3333 will work fine for 1 ohm stable amp (I wouldnt try it on a 2 ohm stable amp). 2.67 speaker load will do fine on a 2 ohm stable amp. www.the12volt.com will help you in multiple subwoofer wiring, and yeah they should have markings on them (my CVX's do). If not then just get a dmm, that will get it for you if the subs dont have markings.

They dont need that power and really dont need all 1000watts to shine, so as long as your safe with the gains and volume know you could do it (just make sure you look, smell and hear for signs of stress).

Buy me some 1/0 awg while your out, appreciate it.

Any facts to back that up, how did he scam him?

Actually if you need help or determining what can fit in your trunk then you go measue before someone has to ask you (that would be smart). Get max dimensions for width (usually use trunk opening unless building box in car), depth and height of trunk. Everybody is wondering how big the area is considering we cant tell from a picture.

You can buy an adaptor but if you already have the 4 guage than it will be fine, most will tell you to up it to 1/0 awg but it isnt really worth it. I would just do it like this: Battery #2 to fuse block 1/0 awg wire and the wire leaving fuse block going to amp use 4 gauge and you will be cool.

Go buy a volt meter like most of us who didnt have one come factory and install it. Well I understand what your saying about your installer but if you want to listen to someone who cant even tell you why your lights are dimming off of 300 watts and he is supposed to be the best then that should tell you something. But its your car and not mine, so shortcut and see where it gets you but I would take my shit to BMW or someone else who is certified before the problem continues and gets worse, just my .02 but to each its own.

Good amp but the sundown is better and cheaper, very underrated amp (a 1200 watt amp that puts out 1700 watts, can you say ridiculous).

Yes an HO alternator will keep up with a secondary battery, thats the purpose of getting them so you wont put too much strain on your factory one.

that was my thought exactly, i mean the alt was 6 years old but the car was checked over by a professional car audio installer and it was fine and like i said it has 4ga wire to top it all off my friend has a 2000W system in his 3series (with same battery) and he has no dimming at all Getting your car checked by a supposedly professional car audio installer means nothing nowadays especially if it deals with electrical or voltage problems, take your car to someone who knows or specializes in electrical work (be smart about how you take care of your car especially if you want it to last long). How about you get a volt meter so you can watch your voltage (Im pretty sure there is more in your car than that if its dimming, what other car audio equipment do you have in there?). Buy a digital multi meter and test amp and battery, with car on and car off. I hope when your sitting idle, you turn your system down. Do you play your system with car off alot?

Because he doesnt know what he is doing, when you order your subwoofers make sure you are requesting them to get you Dual 1 ohm subwoofers. I think this setup may be to advanced for you but if you feel that this is the route you want to go, good luck and I hope it comes together. I think if anything you should try one Mayhem with a 2000-2500 rms amp first, just my .02 so you can get more experience with this and then upgrade.

How about reading the thread names, we have a section that says Amplifiers, Head-Units, Electrical (it would go in the electrical section). Everytime you post you type "I dont know where this goes, nobody does that". Just read each sections title and description about it under the title and post in appropriate section, its not taht hard man, at all just takes some reading and common sense. I dont see the amp being that powerful, when you look at its specs it is only rated at 1500rms x 1 @ 1 ohm (the 3000w rating is max). But that amp will push that BL very well. Battery #1--- fuse ---------------------------------------- fuse ----- Battery #2 (1/0 AWG wire) Battery #2--- fuse -----------------------------------------------------Amp (1/0 AWG wire) No Isolator unless you play with your car off alot, if not then it is not needed.

Actually the D4's can be wired to 1.33334 ohms, I dont know how I just know they can. My friend has 3-12" CVRs tuned to 30 Hz and bangs but he has some funky wiring, me and the local car audio shop were suprised because we didnt think he was wired that low and sure damn was. Id love to see how but are you sure they werent svc? I never heard that before but there is a first time for everything. Yeah Im pretty sure beause when I was ordering my D2 ohm CVX's and we were talking about how mine can be wired to 1.3333 ohms and his cant since his cvr's where D4 but he should me and it is some crazy wiring that I cant even remember off the top of my head (its rather confusing but it drops him down to close to a 1 ohm load.

x2, the reason why you say your system is around 500-600 rms is because that amp probably is rated at 900 watts but doesnt do 900 watts. New headunit and amp and subs will benefit you but you already know that.

Just like any other system in a car, its all install dependent. Please read the new member rules before posting again, this topic is useless to you and others at this point.

Actually the D4's can be wired to 1.33334 ohms, I dont know how I just know they can. My friend has 3-12" CVRs tuned to 30 Hz and bangs but he has some funky wiring, me and the local car audio shop were suprised because we didnt think he was wired that low and sure damn was.

x2, I rarely smoke ciggarettes only when drinking or with friends but dont buy them. I do enjoy my weed but soon it will stop but for now just slowing it down, I dont go throught a pack and a half off cigarillos anymore.

I like the ride and wheel combo, nice system. Do you have any videos?

Just pick whatever amp out of the two that you can afford and make sure you have the electrical to back it up.