jcarter1885

I started off tuned to 36 Hz. Then I tried 32 Hz, and I found 29 Hz to sound the best. So I guess I like it tuned as low as possible. But I still don't know is larger subs mean deeper bass, or if frequency response is what determines how low a sub will play. I have a low pass filter (non adjustable) on my amp. If I wanted a sub sonic filter, would I need an amp with one built in, or can you hook up one like a crossover? They do have external sub sonic filters, I just suggest buying an amp with it already on there. Alot of factors play into deeper bass while the most important one is the enclosure for the subwoofer, sub size doesnt have really play a role just moves more air than a smaller version of the same sub.

Need more information such as goals, what electrical upgrades have you done, what other equipment will be in the car and etc?

The best way to find out how much air space you can fit is measure the area where you want to place your subwoofer and get the max dimensions that you have to work with.

FI Car Audio SSD's FTW!

Looks good man (I would just test it with it dropped in and see if there is a noticeable difference and which every way fits your listening preferences more than keep it in that direction. 4 gauge wire "Your crazy man, Your crazy" - voice of Will Ferrell in Old School after being shot in the jugular with tranquilizer.

alright. thanks i wish it wasn't so. it's definitely a tad louder and hits harder with bass boost on.. i wish i had an oscilloscope to set the gain at its peak without clipping.. doing it with a dmm is wackkkkkk Bass Boost will always make your system hit harder but it doesnt mean you have to use it (it centers the bass around a 45Hz frequency, which is why it seems louder).

For a turn on? No. lol.. No. Just splice a bit from your power wire to your remote. That'll tell you whether the turn on is damaged. Yeah that should work because after re-installing my amps this past weekend I noticed my amp keep popping on and off with no remote power wire/radio off (thought it was wierd), then noticed like 2 fray wires from the positive wire in the positive terminal were barely touching the remote start terminal causing it to go on and off like that. So that amount of power wont hurt it for a few seconds, just see if amp comes on or not.

Glad you could join us.

lol didn't even realize that, good point. Unless someone has some experience that would say otherwise I'll definitely stay away from that. I did an install with them and it made the subs bang but not top notch quality or anything (a cheap budget amp that wont put out gobs of power and overrated).

Glad you could join us.

Glad you could join us man.

I wouldnt do it but I hear of other people asking about it and doing it.

SSA Xcon would be a good choice with a SAZ-1500D and the SSA Store has the set on sale as a combo, just my .02 (would fit your goals nicely). http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/SSA-XCON-15D2-%252b-SUNDOWN-SAZ%252d1500D-COMBO.html

You can upload the images to your SSA gallery and use the image button on the posting tool bar to place the pictures link from your gallery.

Nows thats a good sounding idea, Im gonna be tuned into your build when you start it if you do go this route.

That's fucking tits!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! x2, I love BMW's (my favorite luxury car). Every feature and attention to detail is sweet but the best thing about the looks on that car is the seats.

I had surgery on mine in 1990 from a soccer injury and it still hasn't come back all the way. Earlier this year my buddy woke up from surgery and looked down to see they did the wrong knee Now thats hilarious and messed up at the same time (thinking doctors spend all those years in school and dont know there right from there left).

Freaking sweet enclosure man (Im drooling on the keyboard, gotta clean it up), I envy your craftsmanship.

Wire the subs like this: There should be two wires leaving the sub and going to the amp (positive and negative wire), look on the amp or manual and it should have something that points terminal in channel 1to a terminal in channel 2 that says these can bridge them together. Take the subwoofer positive wire and wire it in the positive bridging terminal on the amp, take the subwoofer negative wire and put it in the negative bridging terminal on the amp (basically your changing a 2 channel amp to run in 1 channel mode).

Im about to go get them from your porch rite now, just playing and good luck man ( I love my CVX's).

x2, First do big three upgrade (battery ground to cars frame, engine block/alternator ground to cars frame, battery positive to alternators positive with 1/0 gauge wire). Then buy a volt meter to watch voltage, you should be eyeing batteries and if you have bad voltage drops then you know its time for a bigger starter battery if it can fit or just add a secondary battery in the rear are by the equipment.

Im thinking its port noise, or you dont have a sub sonic filter low enough to control that woofer on that amp. How low does your subsonic filter go on that amp?

I would tune higher, why did you tune to 24hz? What are your goals with the system and how would you like it to sound? First I would do box designs with a higher port tuning frequency and when you get home rebuild the box and see if it helps. But if at the end of the day you still want to find a good amp in the future or for future installs check out the ssa store/ db-r.com/ sundownaudio.com.

Yeah that could be the case, try to find one with more amps (that will definantly help out).

Its just the dimensions that you changed altered it somehow therefor you needed a shorter port lenght thats all. I cant want to see the pictures of this new box and your new box (the old box) and some videos. Good job on using that box to help you out.