jcarter1885

Well give him what he wants and when someone pulls up next to him kicking his systems ass with less and smaller equipment then be like I told you so. But personally I wouldnt even build it for him because it will be a waste of time, money and equipment. He should be grown enough, mature enough to sit down and be like fuck what you want its a waste just go this route (and if not then he probably the same person who wants all this to show off and kill the car audio industry scene thinking he has a killer system and playing it without others respect in mind).

x2, i would suggest that be the only reason why you shop at Best Buy ( a warranty is there for company defects, not to help the end user who fucked it themselves because they didnt know what they were doing). Personally you can get good products from the ssa.com store or ficaraudio.com, but Im not completely against mainstream like some people (The only mainstream subs I would still buy are Kicker CVX's and Alpine Type R's, now Rockford makes good amps but they are expensive and draw alot of power). If money is the problem and you want a quick upgrade then yeah save the money on the subs and get an SAE1200D to push those subs nicely (the amp is on sale now, look at the ssa.com store under the Amplifies/Sundown Audio section). just my .02

x2, I would vote for replacement of speakers first and then head unit (that right there will give him a night and day differnce). I do understand that some people are on a budget and nobody said he had to go and buy the best out there, but there is better out there than what he has for cheap. Just tell him to do some shopping around and get some good brands entry level or medium level products and they will kick the sonys ass. Just my .02

Glad you could join us and you shared pictures with us . If you have anymore pics or any videos of the install I wanna see them.

Its not point in him telling you what you can see, that is just a shelf for the w7's with the back door as the rest of the enclosure.

CVR's are cool cause the get loud, but Im a CVX fan all day long and would suggest he do a build with some 10''s, 15''s or 12"s and call it a day. Once you measure up the max dimensions of the trunk then we can see what we can put in and how many while giving each sub the optimal space to perform and have the best output.

Big systems are for people who have room for big sysems, If you put that in the car the way you guys are planning is just gonna look ugly and not perform as well. People need to learn than 2-18''s in a trunk is not cool anymore if it sounds like shit or 2-12's can come by and make it sound like popcorn popping, just an example. He's better off measuring his trunk and seeing how much space he has and put what he can in there, that is just my .02.

Yeah just get the kit, remove the license plate and clean the cars paint in that area. Then take out the dampening and lay it in that area and place license plate and holder on top of it and screw them in. Good luck man.

It seems like your friend is a kicker Fiend and he wants to stay Kicker then grab two Kicker CVX 15"s and call it a day (will sound better and perform better than the CVR's). Just my .02, or shop around on this website and see if he can find something he wants.

Look in the For Sale thread, for things for sale (thats the point of having it). You have to shop around for an alternator, if you dont see one on a company's website for your car then call up there (thats the only way you will find one for your car). Please do some type of research before posting, you will be amazed at what you can do or find on your own (then come back and ask for help or questions).

Glad you could join us.

Yeah Kinetiks are good and yes the Dynamat License Plate Kit does work (I have one on my car), but if you get a license plate cover that some people get from there school, dealerships or sports teams then it doesnt stop that from rattling.

Either Sundown will do (SAE-1200D or SAZ-1500D), I would go for SAE-1200D in your case, FTW!

What Im thinking is that those subs are crushing the low notes (you said you can hear it a mile away but cant feel it in the cabin) and not doing to good on the high end, which is what you guys are wanting. Right or wrong?

Naw no isolator is needed, it depends if that battery is strong enough to run your system by itself (it is only good because is causes less wires to be ran and weight added to the car and money spent on more than one battery).

He only has three amps but they are all mono, he was just saying 550x2 (how much power per channel). What all equipment will you be running to these amps? Okay so i cancelled the alpine 650 and went with an older amp i found in my closet. Its a TMA 250. So I'm going to run that Sundown to my sub, the TMA to my front drivers, and the Rockford 2 channel to two Wake board tower speakers put up in the back. I'm having a bar welded in the back so they can hang. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7142_Infinity+6000M.html There is the link to the speaks. Will that work? The only thing is is that i don't know drivers to run in the front? its a 97 4runner. any ideas? Would it work, sure. Does it make sense? No way. All im trying to do is to have speakers loud enough to hear over the sub. So i thought that two tower speakers would do the trick. Any other ideas? I hate music when its straight bass. I like being able to hear the lyrics. Read the pm (personal message) I sent you. Check out madisound.com or parts-express.com for speakers and tweeters or you might need to invest in a pair of horns (Image Dynamics, they get loud off of low power from what I heard.

dont listen to your friend. the woofer is dual voice coils, so you can wire a dual 2 ohm woofer down to 1 ohm. the hifonics amp should be sufficient. get a dual 2 ohm sub when you order it. to wire an amp you need a power wire, ground wire, and remote wire, rca cable from headunit to amp, and speaker wire. but before anyone gets into the details of what goes where and how.... are you planning on upgrading your big 3 and/or adding a 2nd deep cycle battery? x2, on everything said above me.

Yeah the Big 3 is upgrading your wiring to 1/0 gauge or larger your preference: Wire #1- Positive Alternator post to Battery Positive Terminal (Power) Wire #2- Battery Negative Terminal to Car's Frame/Chassis (Ground) Wire #3- Alternator Block/Engine Block to Car's Frame/Chassis (Ground)

Naw im actually glad to help you, just making sure it sticks in thats all. I need help to so, those I can help will help me also. Yeah a stock alternator will support your battery and if your having voltage problems or just to be safe by an agm charger and charge your second battery time to time to help your alternator out time to time. Good luck man. Again I would try and learn how to use the DMM just for the safety of sub(s) and amp, but for now just be safe with volume and use ears and nose for stress on the subwoofer and turn it down if it occurs.

No problem, glad you like it know where's the video and pictures.

Glad you could join us with posts and a build log, starting off nicely .

If it is wired to your remote start on radio and radio comes on during ACC position then yes amp will come on in ACC position.

Whats the new box size and tuning of the enclosure?

Need more information than what your giving, if you want the best possible answers. What electrical upgrades have you done to the car? What other equipment will be in the car? First step make sure you do the Big 3 (if you dont know what is, do some research about it online plenty of pictures and info on it). Enclosure Recommendations: •Sealed: 1.00 cu.ft. •Sealed: 1.35 cu.ft. optimal •Ported: 1.90 cu.ft. @ 27-33 hz •Ported: 2.50 cu.ft. @ 27-33hz opt.