Sir-Lancelot

Eh, it needs more Cowbell! looks good bro, I need to do some spring cleaning with all my wiring too. Tuned in for your build!

Sorry to hear that. Really wanted to run a RLP for my HT. Sad day~! Best of luck to you Sir. From the comments I have read in this post, I have no doubt you will persevere and find success no matter what you decide to do going forward.

Lol!! Just watched that the other nite. This is natural me sexing your mother. Why didn't you put a lot of speakers in the door bro? Good start mang! Tuned in for more.

LOL, that was a hella good deal man. I am curious as to what JL is up to also. People hate because it's expensive, but they make great stuff no doubt.

And there you go, I would have done the same damn thing Bro. Good match for your install and more money in your pocket! $$$ > hugging nutz! lol

Lots of amps share the same board. LOTS! It's a small world and people get boners for different reasons. There is tons of information to be found and by searching around a bit you can see side by side what really matters. Do your homework and buy what makes you happy. 'all that matters in the end. Watts are watts and people are not paying me to run their product. Personally I get wood when I save money on nice amps not because of the label on the heat-sink!

^ This?

Agree on both!

Bet ya $1 it wasn't the same way. All the Fosgate amps I have ever owned would not wire lower than rated impedance without shutting off and I have owned a bunch.

Not upcoming, but I took the kids to see Real Steel this weekend. Pretty cool flick! Now I wanna robot. lol

Icons look great! Store looks great! Tech team fucking rocks! Really badass forum! Thank you for all your hard work, Well done guys!

that new intro is badass Mark! Mmmmmmmmmmm Bork Bork!

What amp Homie?

Very nice Bro. Uber clean, always!

Congrats on the new moofers! Sorry about your car. lol I keed.

Check your wiring. I bet the sub wired too low.

To make this easier I am going to C&P from his web site. If you guys see any reason I should not go this route over the sealed AviaTrix design please share your thoughts. I like both of these honestly, but I am leaning towards the Zaph. The deminsions are the reason I want to build one of these. They fit in the space I have to work with. Here is the link to the projects based on his new drivers. ZA5 ZA5.3c MTM Center channel This is a version of the MTM design done specifically for horizontal center channel usage. It is also workable as a near boundary or near TV design. You will hear many people say that a MTM is just not good for horizontal usage, and for the most part they are right. The problem is that upright center channels will not work with the average home theater layout, unless you are lucky enough to have a front projector with a sound transparent screen. But for most of the HT world, we've got to squeeze the center channel between the TV and the furniture it's mounted in/on. We can however optimize some of the typical MTM off axis response issues out of it, and give it a tonal balance that favors dialog. That is exactly what we've done here, and it's a completely different crossover rather than just an option based on the standard MTM. The crossover point has been dropped down a bit, though still not as low as the TM. There is very little baffle step compensation in this design, and the overall tonal balance favors a broad smooth rise through the upper midrange. The result of that can be seen in comparing the vertical polar responses between this and the standard MTM version. We've widened the listening window when this system is laid horizontal, and even when the response starts to droop due woofer center to center distance, a mild increase in the upper midrange minimizes the effect. The result is a horizontal MTM with a forward listening window of about 50 degrees from side to side. This is much more usable than the typical commercial center channel, which usually has serious lobing issues even 5 degrees off the horizontal axis. An MTM will never be as suitable as a W-T/M-W 3-way center, but here we've done our best with the format. Complaints of dialog audibility should be minimal. For those who must use the left and right MTM systems right up against the TV, this design is suitable for that also. With that standard MTM design I said it didn't matter much if the tweeter goes to the inside or outside, but for this system it does. The tweeter needs to mount away from nearby obstructions to avoid issues with reflections in it's operating bandwidth. If placed against the side of a TV, the tweeters should go to the outside. If used as a center placed on a shelf below the TV, in most cases tweeter up will be the best. The idea is to keep the tweeter side as clear as possible from nearby objects. For your left and right channels, If you have to place your enclosure right up against a wall, this is the design to use. Note that the ports face forward so they are not restricted by hi-fi furniture or the back wall. Most centers will need the ports on the front. But for the left and right, if the rears are at least 6" out from the wall, it's not going to matter either way.

Yeah I got that, but from my recollection of his system description, Zaph recommended using the crossover design in the center for left and right if they are to be placed up against the monitor. He does recommend to place the tweeter position in relation to the TV, but I cant remember if he said inside or outside. I believe it was outside of the TV so it wont obstruct. He does offer 2 designs but recommended using the center design as L&R if placing near the TV. I may need to read this agian as i am going from memory, but that is what I understand it to be. @ Edub. You have to compensate for the tweeter depending on how close to an object, the cabinet baffle, how close they are to the mids, and more. It's called baffle step and it's WAY over my head also. lol You are trying to balance the tweeter using the crossover design. I am learning as I go. Apparently there is A LOT more to building a good crossover that I ever imagined.

If you want your mids to be louder than mine it is. Lol.

If I am reading it correctly, the port forward MTM center has baffle step compensation for near monitor on wall. If I go with that one, I would build three of the centers for the front. The sealed AviaTrix also has baffle step compensation for mounting beside the monitor. Hopefully they will work out. Not a big investment if not. Would make a nice gift for a friend. lol

Headrest are the new thing Bro. Got to mount a pair in the headrest for that stereo effect.

I just like the cabinet really. Pretty, lol I talked myself out of that pretty quick. The two I have chose can be wall mounted and mounted close to the TV. So the designer says, I will let you know how that goes. Apparently they compensate for this with the crossover. Would like to hear your thoughts tho?

Possibly yes. It' between two designs, mainly because they fit in the space I have to work with. With a coin flip, I believe I am going to build either the Zaph 5.3 MTM or the AviaTrix MTM front and a MT rear. I think either would work well and both builders/designers have excellent reputations. I will post my thoughts.

I willing to bet the 32hz stays in there even tho it wont be the loudest on the meter. Once it drops bottom -

Budget? Active/Passive? Which of those listed did you like? Didn't like?