Spencerk

1 18 will be a tight fit and two 15s?? ur guna need 8 cubes I don't think you will fit it in their and still have room to move the air around the box effectively

have you modded this amp or bypassed the protection circuits??? Bc that is the next best thing to a dead short and it should be going into protect mode, that is probably like .2 ohms or less lead to lead

I suppose you don't have to if ya don't want, but bc the alt is the main source of power in your car and the ground comes from its casing its deff not going to hurt. To give your alt the path of least resistance that would be the way to do it. Even if ya don't put a wire on it proly would not be a bad idea to pop out the bolts and just make sure the you have a good clean connection with the block.

well... yeah because when you have two types of metals you can get galvanic corrosion between the two and that will cause problems. if you do put a wire right to it put some die electric grease on their to stop the oxidation ( the root cause of the galvanic corrosion the casing of the alt is its ground

145 mph Raced some gay ass 13 sec Grand prix in my 93 Ford Taurus SHO 3.0 MTX on the highway

I would put a wire right from the alt to the chassis some alts have aluminum casings with steel hardened bolts holding them on. this combo can lead to poor grounding. Just pull one mounting bolt and clean the area and place your ground their. just my .02

I don't think anybody here likes E.D. and im not sure why....I have never owned any thing other than their amps but they are great and they do way more than rated power. the owner of the local audio shop has their liquid deadener in a explorer with 4 R.F T2s on 5k and the only things that makes noise is the wipers, seems to be good stuff.

I was just reading this articleHERE thats what they label the two as, was just wondering why we all don't use this set up, because you can tune the thing on the fly with no rebuilding of boxes

What design is better a 4th order ported box or a 4th order passive radiator box with a one to one ratio (passive to active). The radiator seems to have so many more advantages... so why does everyone have ported boxes?? looking for some ideas and opinions on this, might redo my box soon.

I DO NOT like this skin, the most annoying thing is how when you click on a topic if jumps to the last post, I want to read the whole thing so I know what is going on. I will take that crazy shopping cart corner over this any day.

was that done with arch or mig.... I cant tell if it was spotted with 7018 or forgot to turn the argon on with the mig??? Be careful if any more cracks start they will start right along the sides of the welds that were put down Tungsten or heli arch would have stopped that...sick set up though man

Makeitlouder.com they have a meter for like 70 bucks and I have a nice fluke oscope for it........ hmmmm I see a brown truck dropping something off to me in the next 5-7 days Leister-- I am from Muskegon and live in lansing. I have called tech audio/ skory auto sound/ extreme car audio, and you are right, I dont think their is one TL in michigan... Now if we could only get a Comp to come out are way sometime hu??

I have wanted to get a meter for a while now so I can play with diff box pos. etc... term labs are sooo pricey, do you guys know of any good meters for less. I think shizzon said he is using a Hyperdynamics or something like that....any input is welcome

welcome ED.... what kind of set-up do you have???

No such thing as to little power... 300 watts on a BL you could proly clip the shit outa that thing and not hurt it. you will be fine just dont push that lil guy too hard and make it sound nasty

OMG the BMW and the shack is my neighbor!!!! BRAND new $60,000 caddy with 26s and the bank just took his house last week...

Hey np man glad to help

They also sell like a lil eye-dropper type thing that you can take a sample of ur water in ur bat and these two lil balls will float to tell you what ur ratio is I think that thing is called a Hydrometer (again Freshman year) and on average you would like to see the specific gravity if the solution around 1.215 to 1.28 but most hydrometers will have a green area or line and just get it to that line, too high and you will need to take acid out and add water too low means more water. as far as how full to fill it I have always heard that you only need enuf to cover the top of the plates you don't have to fill it right to the top of the fill holes

OK well if you can fill it. then check the level if they are full then nothing. but if the bat is older than it will proly take some water the just fill it up. Also at wall-mart, autozone, etc I have seen acid you can buy to add to ur bat I do not know what the ratio is for the water to acid but I know that all water and no acid will lower you float charge, bc all a bat is is a chemical reaction and you need equal amounts of water lead and acid to make it work to its fullest.....Think of it like checking your oil, just dont get this oil in ur eyes you will go blind and it will hurt

Yep distilled... if you have a batt that is NOT sealed you can add water/acid to it. you will know if you look at your batt it will have 1 or 2 caps you can pop off and add water. OR if you have a sealed batt then just be nice bc once that baby shorts or the water or acid gets too low..you better get out the check book

Almost forgot...if you have a gel cell ( like an Optima) or an Dry cell like a Batt cap not all of the above applys... Gel cells can take inrush and draw very well bc the sulfuric acid electrolyte is suspended in an immobilized paste ( like peanut butter) and the plates are a calcium -lead hybrid that is flexible

Man I new that these last 4 years and $75,000 would be good for something..... And this is it right here. The float charge of a Batt is the Voltage that the batt will maintain with a state of Natural current ( no current out or in just chillin ). Standard lead acid car batt is nothing more than six 2.2 volt cells in one casing. It is conducive to the batts health if you do not pull HUGE amounts of current off the batt and the go and give it a inrush or current greater that the max CCA. This will lead to you warping the plates and the batt will shorting out. Because car batts are secondary chemical electron transfer cells they also have a life cycle of on average 6500 cycles, then once we put amps and other goodies on them that number is almost cut in half. Also use DI water in your batt minerals from regular tap water will cause build up on the plates and electrons will not be able to flow efficiently. Thus giving the batt a higher internal resistance and a lower float charge......I think.....this was like freshman year and I was hungover A LOT

Strap them, not all amps are exactly identical, one may make more power than the other, their could be a time delay between the two amps even if its only 1 ms that could cause distortion.

KU40 is hit it dead on, once the windings, casing, etc gets hot the internal resistance goes up thus a voltage drop occurs

OMG i am tarted, sry guys OK here total is like $460 with shipping, not top of the line but off brand.. amp- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6882_M...dio+TC4001.html HU- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17269_...KDC-MP342U.html Wire kit- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7228_e...by+Scosche.html Sub- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9105_R...nch+P3D412.html