Spencerk

No would not give you a -1 your imput is appreciated...I was reading up in my book for one of my old magnetic / electron theory classed and I came across an article in their about this, so I poked round the net and came accross this ( Generator synchronization (John De Armond) ) and it was exactly what the book said.

HA bc their "Braille" LMFAO

Well actually an alternator produces an alternating current or AC hence the name for the machine and the name for the sign wave formation of the voltage...the DC the is produced by way of a tri rectifier and diodes that in the most simple terms (much more to it of course) chops off the bottom half of the sign wave and gives you BAM!! DC voltage

Yeah I have heard the same thing about other cars...Supposedly the clam that 3000 miles is when you should change the oil is only to benefit the oil and service industry's. My father is the CFO of the company I work for and he has be able to see many things in his career including the R/D rooms of ALL of the big three and a few smaller Italian companies. Supposedly they (for limits tests) have run motors at 4k RPM for thousands of hours non stop, tore the motor down and have seen minimal wear to cam lobes, mains, bearings, rings, lining of the sleeves, etc. I personally change my oil in my ford every 7500 miles and shes got 150,xxx on her and she runs like a top, when I adjusted the timing chain the cams had minimal discoloring due to carmalization and NO wear at all. I totally believe that you could go 10k on a single oil change.

OK I have made the decision to go with a custom dual alt set up in the Taurus...yada yada ya mount it, longer, belt, etc.. done. BUT I got to thinking about a few things I learned in school and I was wondering if anybody else on here with a dual alt set up has run a equalization connection between the two to prevent the alt that has the stronger field excitation from taking all the load and turning the other weaker one into a motor? And how do you know that both are in phase as not to double voltage when they are 180 degrees out of phase, 28 volts will fry my car. anybody with knowledge of electron physics that could help would be GREATLY appreciated

X2

Speed, discovery, science, history.... those are all i watch if I cant learn from it I wont waist my time

never heard of them but they look cheap.....if your looking for a way to light your car on fire I can think of 100 ways to do it for under 5 bucks, save ya some cash. If you are worried about the price look around for a old rockford, kicker, sundown, etc.

You could also just run another wire in parallel with the remote wire and put that on ea switch so you can turn it on and off when you want to, and your amp wont have to stay on all the time

what subs, box, size ect???

if you are going for output then 4 12s will have more surface area than 2 15s (not by much) so in that aspect it has the potential to be louder, BUT!! with more drivers in the chain you will have an over all less system efficiency. Both set ups will need about the same size box when all said and done. In your situation the 2 15s will be louder bc they will be seeing twice the power imput as your proposed 4 12s set up

how much for one of these???

X2 im in the market

Yeah if your only going to use it for round the house and the car that would be a good one to get.

lWhat kinda of DMM should i buy? I looked at some today and they all had different power rating. 200-750volts sound good? to check an amp you will need a dmm rated for 200 vac or more ( that should be plenty of head room to test ) and one that also has a amp clamp that can do 100 amps ac would be nice but you wont NEED it but it can save you lots-o-time doing all the math.

now all I need is the gears shirt and I will own every piece of clothing that FI sells......does that mean that I have a problem ???

Any 12 volt batt will rest at 12 to 12.8 volts normally. If you want to "run off your batt and not your alt " and still do that at 13 volts or more you will need to get 14 or 16 volts batts. IF you want to run off your batts and not go the 16 volt route you will need a batt with a high reserve capacity, and that will depend on how long you want to run with the car off.

if you don't care about numbers then go sealed, that would be the best way to do a hair trick. ported box will always have an opposing force against the air. sealed box+ lots-o-surface area+ small cabin= MESSED UP HAIR

Their would be NO advantage to doing this.....The ONLY thing you will gain is maybe 2-5 watts of output, by way of .03 or so ohms less resistance

Cool. Just noticed you are into SHO's. I've had 3 including a Vadim built to the hilt car. yep I have a 93 Gen II. I've done the 3.2 swap Big Bore Secondary butterfly, ported heads, extrusion honed intakes (both 1st and 2nd intakes) and full 1 off 2.5 inch exaust from the block to the back bumper. Other than that shes all stock its fun to pick on Z28's, transam's and C4 vetts. They never see you coming in and old 1993 ford Taurus. How much did you have wraped up in your built up SHO and what gen was it? Previous owner spent $26k on it. One of the first 92's Vadim went nuts on. Springs, shocks, sways, crossover, exhaust, displacement bored to 3.4L, stage II cam, injectors, ported heads, extrude honed intake, custom tune, quaiffe diff, and I know I am forgetting something. The car was retired in 1998 when the engine finally went, had it towed to a shop and the tow truck totaled it in the process. Convenient timing as their insurance paid for it and I was able to part it out. Still have the Powerdyne in my basement though just waiting for another project car. Amusingly I bought it for $10k a month after it was built, the guy who had it done couldn't get his valet's to start it as if she didn't fire on the first revolution she'd flood. All you had to do was step to the floor and it would roar to life, but they couldn't figure that out. Considering he was paying $800 a month to park it living in Chicago it wasn't like the money mattered to him. Thing was fast as hell and when not traction limited would stick with anything on the Chicago freeways. Yeah if half of these high school punks knew anything about cars besides what they see in the movies, they would know better than to mess with a SHO at 50mph or faster

Cool. Just noticed you are into SHO's. I've had 3 including a Vadim built to the hilt car. yep I have a 93 Gen II. I've done the 3.2 swap Big Bore Secondary butterfly, ported heads, extrusion honed intakes (both 1st and 2nd intakes) and full 1 off 2.5 inch exaust from the block to the back bumper. Other than that shes all stock its fun to pick on Z28's, transam's and C4 vetts. They never see you coming in and old 1993 ford Taurus. How much did you have wraped up in your built up SHO and what gen was it?

I work for a automotive parts manufacture, we are on the cutting edge of light weight automotive die casting, we are currently testing making entire doors and hatches for 2013 vehicles, we also make brackets of all sorts, seat brackets,mirror brackets, dash boards, rad supports you name it and I've casted it . I am a electrical controls specialist, Basically I program all the machines and robots for manufacturing / set up the new machines when buy them. I work on Buhler prince 3000 and 4500 TON die cast machines,they weight 120,000 to 500,000 tons and cost 12.5 million give or take a few million.

Hmmm weird because AGM batts contain no liquid, they are a dry cell seal chemical reaction. A gel cell or standard lead acid battery contains a sulfuric acid electrolyte in an immobilized gelignite electrolyte, which is the cause for their main down fall ( they fail at low temps) As with most everything in the world of electron transfer when you lower the nominal temp of the transferring material the resistance lowers. I would expect nothing less if you told us you had a lead acid or gel cell, but with a glass mat style battery Im kinda out of ideas for you solution. The only way you could tell if it wad the car or the battery would be to take the battery out of the car and check the voltage and load test it. then let it sit outside for one night and check again.

160 amp.....wow you have a nice stock alt I thought I was hot shit with a 130 stocker......yeah you should be fine with that, your amp will need about 130 amps at full power, so if you have ANY other acc.(winch, lights, rocket boosters, etc) you might want to think about a AMG batt

WOW ok well I think thats my sign i need to get some sleep. Thx man...she HATES that I have it up their, I think that half the reason I wont take it down