emh9009

Does that mean there is a different one you would pick than those sizes? There is always 300 amp fuse. Less resistance, but more chance of wire failure. I have all 300 amp. I don't remember what the 3k fuse rating is though..

Recones have a set time on fridays that they're dealt with, that's why it's been a couple days for ya'. May have been too many before you to get done last fri. so you got bumpped to today. Ordering 4 at a time shouldn't slow them down at all. They can do so many a day. If they only get 3 of yours done one day, i'm sure your 4th will be the first in line the next day. So really no difference

We're clogging this thread. I'm sorry, Mark. It's all personal preferences on my part. I want things to work perfectly. 1/0 terminals with 1/0 wire. When my wire is too big for my lugs it's stupid having to work around it, but I understand that I'm mixing welding terminals and CA wire so it's my fault. That's why I bought welding cable this time around As far as the wire not being able to handle as many amps after being trimmed, i've always thought that was the case. But now thinking about it I could have been wrong this whole time!

Of those I would go with 250

What do you mean by, "the top one"? I think it's pointless to have to modify something like that to be able to use it. I have a way around trimming and using all the wire, I just prefer it all to fit in my terminals is all. No big deal. I agree with you, 98GMC.

What? That's weird. Sucks, sorry bro. Glad you found the problem, though!

I noticed that. But i prefer to get all the wire in the ring terminal with the welding cable, rather than having to trim some down with the CA cable. Seemed pointless. If I want 2/0 I will get 2/0. Welding cable still meets the standards for 1/0, IIRC. Getting pure copper, be it a tad smaller than leading CA cable, cheaper than CCA I'm all over that But you can get pure copper car audio wire for same as welding wire. And if you use the correct ring terminals, you don't have to trim. But if you use 1/0 welding ring terminals, you will. But why would you think its pointless if you have to trim? Do you think just cause the wire isn't actually in the terminal, that its not getting used? I meant it's pointless to have a wire that's so large you have to trim it to use it with crimpable ring terminals. I don't solder my terminals, I prefer pure copper terminals I can crimp. So I guess I don't use the "correct" ones for CA wire. Oh well, those are too expensive anyways.

Take a look at this site: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html Gives a good explanation and diagrams to think about. I had tried to follow that, but I kinda' got confused with only having 3 batteries in the back, not 4. Didn't want to run so many wires for the last method, and the 3rd seemed difficult with the space i have. So i tried to do my best to get close to option 2. That make any sense? lol Seems like any way, other than what i came up with, I'll need to have 3 runs of 1/0 from front to back.. Am I missing something?

Woo! Amp looks like it has some crazy Xover features!

I agree, just figured they would be out of their budget. Unless they finally decided to try and find some used.

I noticed that. But i prefer to get all the wire in the ring terminal with the welding cable, rather than having to trim some down with the CA cable. Seemed pointless. If I want 2/0 I will get 2/0. Welding cable still meets the standards for 1/0, IIRC. Getting pure copper, be it a tad smaller than leading CA cable, cheaper than CCA I'm all over that

That made me LOL! Not wasting any time, are ya'? Getting right to work, keep it up!

There is no reason to NEVER buy a used sub. Especially when you're on a low budget. What makes you think that? If the LI are a little cheaper with the sale going on, get them! They will both be great subs. Or you could always flip a coin, as stated.

did you try a different amp with your wiring before you sent it in?

Would like to see this stuff tested as well!

Would you really put them up against the SA or LI? I know you run them that's why I'm asking. I have the old models. With the BP option? Yeah, I would. Coming from the SSD tech, but it's the same option so I assume it's the same. "
BP Power: This option adds a machined aluminum compression plug to the pole which helps channel all of the air under the dustcap around the coil for better cooling. To aid with this increased airflow we also add 6 axial cooling channels in the top plate. Along with increased thermal capacity comes the addition of an extra spider and a changed spider pack. All of these features increase power handling from 200-500 Watts depending on the application. 
"

OP, have you looked at Fi's X series? Add the BP power option and you should have a comparable, custom sub. https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154e72c53845987/shopdata/0050_Speakers/0045_X/product_overview.shopscript

and this is why jacob should have made it a secret that he did anything for this company... but then again he prolly didnt know he would act this way.

That's where i got it from. http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html Used a discount code(s) to get it a little cheaper. Just google for some.

Got the batteries today. Thank you to Ram_Designs! Made some wires to connect the batteries in the back. Love this hydrolic crimper. Next step is to make a new beauty panel for the 100.4 and make room for these guys! Any more insight on my wiring "diagram"?

Completely agree, but this is online pricing, so the shop charging $7 doesn't seem to fit here. Still a bit more than just about anything popular out there. But then again, it really could be that much better, we don't know yet.

How is $5/ft competitive?

If it's any less than 3.75/ft I'll be amazed!

Nice 'lil speaker, should sell well!

Hmm not too bad of drop. Is that after the 10 seconds or so when it's louder or whatnot?