hondakilla98

Why not run the 1500 @ 1 ohm and set the gain accordingly? More power. I'm not running a huge front stage. So it'll be turned down most of the time. But I'd like to see what I can get spl wise down the road. And more power generally equals a higher number. And the amp used to be warrentied to .5 ohm so I know it'll take it. If you can burp a 3000d on your electrical at 1 ohm, then a 1500d on the electrical I'm putting in should be fine to burp on .5 ohm as long as I watch my voltage drop.

Why not run the 1500 @ 1 ohm and set the gain accordingly? More power. I'm not running a huge front stage. So it'll be turned down most of the time. But I'd like to see what I can get spl wise down the road. And more power generally equals a higher number. And the amp used to be warrentied to .5 ohm so I know it'll take it. If you can burp a 3000d on your electrical at 1 ohm, then a 1500d on the electrical I'm putting in should be fine to burp on .5 ohm as long as I watch my voltage drop.

I'm also thinking about getting a dual 1 ohm sub so I can run the saz-1500d at .5 ohm daily with the gain turned down. And be able to turn it up for burps. I think my electrical should be sufficient to support it. A Deka 9a78dt up front, a Deka 9a31 in the trunk, a 240 amp alt, big three in 1/0, 1/0 from front batt to back batt, and a stinger volt gauge to monitor voltage drop. I'll also be running an mb quart dsc4125 active to my 8 ohm mids and highs. I'll be using the cca 1/0 wire from knuconceptz and fusing for 250 amps.

I did some measuring today and it looks like I can fit a 15" sub in my trunk. Which is what I really wanted in the first place. But to make it all fit, I think I'd have to lose my spare and put my amps in the spare tire well. I'm thinking a sundown Z15v2 in 3-3.5 cu ft ported with a 6" aeroport tuned to 32. So I think when I set everything up, I'm going to put my amps in the well to simplify the change later down the road. I also installed some 55w 6000k hid lowbeams. They are sweet.

This is so much better than the old mobile.

I ordered my Deka intimidator 9a78dt front battery, smaller serpentine belt and alternator underdrive pulley today. I also put the 240 amp guts in a spare alt to test them out. Hopefully it's right this time. It worked intermittently before. It turned out that the 240 amp stator was 1/8" thicker and it wasnt keeping the brushes lined up properly with the armature. So I put two washers that equal 1/8" under the brushes before I bolted them down to shim them into position. I'll take it to my buddies shop next weekend and change out the alt, do the big 3 in 1/0, and put in the Deka starting battery. I also put up an enclosed carport so I can work on the car when it's raining. Which is all the time during spring in Oregon. So I can finally start making progress on the install.

Here's a used 1 ohm daily 18" Fi BTL in the classifieds for 325 shipped. It's not an n2. But it should perform very similarly.

Are you planning on keeping your current amp and box? And if so what are the specs on them? It should also give us a better idea of how loud it is now. Are you against adding a second w6? Or maybe stepping up to a 15? I know a few 15" subs perform in small 3 cu ft boxes like the sundown Z15v2. So you wouldn't have to sacrifice alot of trunk space.

I'd go for the cone area advantage and get the dcon.

Happy Birthday!

Looking good. This should pound. Do you have a bench or bucket seats?

If your on a budget, look at an audiopipe Ap15001d or ap18001d. They put out rated power, and are cheap.

I have a roll of audiowrap deadener. I've only dealt with it and fattmat. I can tell you the audiowrap is stiffer, stickier, and smells like rubber instead of asphalt. I have only used a small sample of it. So I can't tell you how good it is in a complete install. Well after reading Don's post above I'm glad I got it for cheap.

I have a roll of audiowrap deadener. I've only dealt with it and fattmat. I can tell you the audiowrap is stiffer, stickier, and smells like rubber instead of asphalt. I have only used a small sample of it. So I can't tell you how good it is in a complete install.

Better for what? That's a pretty vague question. Give us some info on what you will be using it for, budget, how much power you'll be using, what vehicle, etc.

Are two ported 12's out of the question? There's always the 2-12" Skar vvx deal. You get two 12" subs in a ported box built to your specs, shipped for $350. And two of those would be a great match for your amp. If you don't care about room and are on a budget, that's what I'd do. Or maybe one sa15?

I got an autopage alarm with remote start installed on Wednesday. Damn it's nice. Especially since the low tonight is 17 degrees and I get off work at 4 am. I also think the guy that installed the alarm is gonna do some fiberglass dash pods for my highs. Hopefully soon I can make some progress.

Including inside the box.

I just ordered a set from sharphid, and a set of spare bulbs. I'd hate to try to track down a spare bulb in town.

If you run one 12 ported. Could you do an external aero port? Maybe come out of the top of the box and run sideways across the top of the box?

Payment sent to sundownz. And email with questions sent to Derrick. Derrick replied within 10 minutes.

What do you have for subs now? What are your goals?

Most shops have a minimum job price. Meaning if you want something done it's $100. But they'll do multiple things for the same price. If your talking about small parts. Wheels I checked locally and they wanted $200 for a set of four wheels. If you have room. You could powder coat yourself for a few hundred dollars. You need an old oven, a sand blaster, powder coat gun and powder. You can pick up a sand blaster and powder coat gun and powder for about 175 at harbour freight. Then get a beat up old oven and find a 220v outlet to plug it into.

What's your idea of "low end" you're missing? Like, are there certain tracks that lack? A known frequency range? An EQ isn't the answer to gain frequency bandwidth. Generally speaking, if you gotta add/cut more than 3 dB, you have an overall problem that should be addressed with the installation or equipment. I know eq isn't the right answer. But if he's too stubborn to change the box he overpaid for, he's going to end up with an unflat response. Which would then need eq'd out. Which is a band aid for a poor installation, but a possibility.

Are 4 sealed subs in a non optimal box(2 of them anyway) going to be that much louder than two ported ones? And your trying to gain low end, by running more subs? Do you have the ability to eq the subs to do that? Otherwise your also increasing all the bass. Not just the low end. So if your set on using the box. Could you adapt it to take 2-10" subs instead of 12's? Your box volume sealed would work great for alot of 10's. And if it's a little big, you can put something in the box to drop volume. Then build an equally sized box for two more tens. And have 4 sealed 10's in optimal boxes. Giving you good output and great sound with good low end.