hondakilla98

My friend angled his about 10 degrees forward and 10 degrees up from a direct crossfire. His seem to be a bit lower than your listening position. I guess you won't know until you try. That parametric EQ will help a ton with mounting problems, nothing is as good as getting the mounting correct I guess, but It seems to help me. What frequencies seem to be harsh? I don't know what the natural rolloff of the mid and tweeter are but they could be overlapping too much, that is purely a guess though, I would wait for some more advice on the crossover points. Wow. You weren't kidding about having them firing at each other. I'll try moving them. Should I put the eq flat before I spend anymore time on aiming? Then after I get them where they sound the best. Then play with the eq? And after I do that and repost, then I'll post up my complaints about the sound and get reccomendations from there?

I haven't messed with the eq much yet. I just put it on one of the presets that wasn't too bad. The parametric is flat. My sub is 24 db@63hz Mid 24@80hz, 24@2khz, high 18@2khz. So on aiming. Is the height ok? Where should they be aiming? In between the front seats, middle of the dash, above the shifter? Should they aim up at my ears or down? And how far up or down? I have the mx turned off. Everything I listen to comes from my iPod. I have the eq off on the iPod.

Deadening will happen soon. I'm waiting to get MLV and CCF before I tear apart my doors again. I'm already running active. I moved the tweeters to the A pillars with some 3m double sided tape temporarily as suggested. They are about chin level. It sounds better, but still very harsh. Espescially listeninng to hard rock and metal. Everything sounds muddy and run together with little definition. Just a bad sounding harsh jumble of high end(I might be exagerating a little). These remind me of the MB Quartz seperates I had back in '99, way to harsh. pic from driver seat of passenger side Driver's side tweeter location and aiming Driver side woofer hiding behind my big ass white leg.

double reply

I have my front stage running active with my 9886, h100, and mrp-f250. I currently have Focal 165a1 speakers installed. 6.5" in the stock location in the bottom of the doors, and the tweeters in the dash reflecting off the windshield. I'm not happy with the sound currently. I'd like to find some mids with better midbass, less harsh tweeters, and put my tweeters on axis. I'm new to the world of buying seperate speakers. I looked on madisound and found the Vifa BC25TG15-04 and the Scanspeak Discovery 18W/4434G-00. What do you think of this combo? I'd leave the mids in the doors in the stock location, and make a pillar pods for the tweeters on axis with the driver's seat. I'll post pics later of speaker location. I only have about 70mm of mounting depth available for the doors and a max diameter of 7". I'll also soon be buying MLV and CCF, and dampening the doors. If you have reccomendations of speakers preferably 4 ohm and around 50 watts, with a max of 100. If if have to i can upgrade to a 100x4 amp (i only have room for one midrange amp).

Great build log. As far as the Dcon sounding better than the Icon. Was the Icon in as good a box that was built to spec? And in a vehicle that was as well deadened as yours? I thought the Xcon>Icon>Dcon. Either way, great work on your build, and I'm excited to see what you come up with for your console.

how much do they charge you to do it? if its something you heve to get done often you might as well invest in a torch, you can get a hand held torch from any hardware store. i bought mine awhile ago and if i remember right it was fairly cheap (under 30). its just as easy as it looks. Charge me to do what? I used my vise to cruch the connector onto the wire.

I'm ghetto. I use my bench top vise and just smash the hell out of it and then cover it with heat shrink. I tried soldering it but my soldering iron is too small and the only torch I have is my oxy acetylene torch. Which is way too hot. I went to harbour freight but they were out of stock on the hydraulic crimpers.

The gti's are nice. My friend had an 05 1.8 turbo. It was queit well built and an all around good car. Just expensive when they break. The newer civic si's are nice as well. Just hard to find for cheap unless they have a bunch of miles.

Well if it doesn't have to be jap. What about an srt4? They make 225 hp at the wheels do 0-60 in low 5 sec range and run the 1/4 in 14 flat. And they're cheap. For the money you won't find anything FWD near that fast for the price. But it's not jap or German.

That would sound great, but if an xcon costs him 600 an icon is gonna be around 500. that's a 1000 for the pair. It sounds like the OP wants to spend around 500 for the pair.

Have you thought about running a single 18"? A single ported xcon 18 would be just a little more than the pair of L7's and cheaper than the pair of GTI's. And with 10 cubic feet available you have enough room for a proper box.

I'm pretty happy with my RE SX15 ported. It has great output and decent sound. An RE SX12 ported in about 2 cu ft tuned to 34 would be a nice setup. And since they came out with the new SXX replacement the SX's are a little cheaper.

So we'll just send our orders to you? Or a pass to the employee store would be good.

If your going to add more amps later you should wire accordingly. So if in the future you'll have a sub amp and front stage amps I'd just go 1/0 now and then you don't have to spend more money and time later upgrading. For your fuses between batteries, you want to fuse to the capacity of the wire itself. So the knukonceptz 1/0 wire I have is rated to 250 amps. So I have 250 amp fuses to go inbetween. Then you can run the appropriate size wire from the rear battery to your amps. I'll have 1/0 to my sub amp and 4 gauge to my front stage amp. With appropriately sized fuses for each amp. In my case 150 and 80.

Whoever painted that chevy truck has alot of talent. Unfortunately he wasn't blessed with any taste. Just because you can paint everything, doesn't mean you should.

STFU Fatty. I worked hard on being ghetto. LOL I didn't know autozone sold battery hold downs. But next time I'll start there, instead of working for 30 minutes in the garage. Besides, since I don't have a front bumper I figure nobody is looking at my battery hold down. Either way It's good to see your checking my progress.

If your asking if you need to run a ground from your starter battery to your secondary battery. The answer is no. Can you? Yes. But it's not neccesary. Just ground it to your frame and make sure your other grounds are good and you'll be fine.

I would imagine it depends on panel size and thickness. If you building a box out of 1" mdf that's 1 cu ft and sealed bracing would be serious overkill. Because there's no way your going to get panel flex on a 12" x 12" piece of 1" mdf. Too add to your question. What constitutes bracing? Because i put 45 degree pieces in the corners of my box and glued and nailed them in. Which technically braces the corners. Is that bracing? Or are we talking about a big piece with holes in it in the middle of the box, or threaded rod?

May want to check out who the engineer/designer is on the JL Audio amps! So are you going to tell me? Or do I have to use google and actually do something? I'm hoping to take the easy way out and have you answer for me.

Nooooo, install both sets! EDIT: No screws in the box? why both? So it can be loouuuuddd. LOL! It's plenty loud. Lots of Titebond II and about 500 brad nails. It's not going anywhere. It just needs sanded and painted to make it look good now.

Thanks. And thanks again for the common sense help with the H100.

I did the big three today. My lights dim less when the bass hits. I checked voltage at the battery with my dmm, and got 14.05 at idle. And with the stereo bumpin, it would drop to around 13.5. The lowest i saw was 13.2 volts with the headlights on and stereo up. Next step is to run the 1/0 to the back and install my second battery. Hopefully that will eliminate the rest of my dimming. If not then i guess it's time to get an HO alternator. Here are some pics of the battery with my ghetto fabulous battery hold down. I made it with my torch and vice out of 1/8" x 3" steel plate. I don't have the covers on my terminals yet. I need to cut down the 1/0 set screws that are too long. then the covers should fit just fine. Ghetto battery hold down, with fat mat melting out from under it.( maybe that wasn't the best idea) Negative terminal Positive battery terminal My stinger 150 amp circuit breaker (soon to be replaced with 250 amp ANL) and 1/0 battery to frame ground Two of the big three

I have an Active front stage in my jeep! I moved the tweeters to the factory location in the dash. Got my wires ran and hidden. Finally got to put my door panels back on. Put a layer of fattmat on both sides of my woofer spacer in the door. And played with the crossover a little. It still needs more tuning. But it already sounds better. Now I need to work on deadening and ordering MLV and CCF. Then I can tear the doors apart again.

Well it is active capable. I didn't see the tiny switch on the side of the pxa-h100. Now I can finalize my wiring and put my door panels back on.