altoncustomtech

Dunno about other uni-body vehicles, but my Venture mini-van was horrible. Before I ran that separate ground wire from the front battery to the rear battery I tested the resistance at both points at a whopping 121ohms! After running that ground wire and grounding all the body seams together along that wire it's a nice 1.4 ohms which is much much better.

I did this in a way. I have a 1/0 cable running from the front battery negative to the heaviest metal in the rear of the van where the rear battery grounds. I have that cable connected to ground lugs at each point along the body where the sheet metal is overlapped and spot welded together. It's definitely overkill but solved quite a few electrical issues I had with windows, door locks, etc. operating correctly and that way I know the ground is solid and probably cannot be improved upon. I doubt it would do much if anything just to help an amp, but it is commonly done for multiple battery setups from what I've seen. I figure it's got to help on vehicles without full frames under them too, like my mini-van. In vehicles without a full frame there's only the body's sheet metal to transfer the current where a full frame is heavy steel and can handle lots of current flow with much less resistance. You didn't mention the vehicle you're doing this in, but I doubt it would be worth the cost and trouble with only 4awg wire, and especially if it has a full frame under it like a full size truck. 95Honda simplified it much better...

I'm tuned in CHOP!! Looking forward to seeing how them SA-8's look in it and as I said before, I feel sorry for them poor little AB 8's on that 2200, LOL.

I voted for A due only to the "different" factor, I just don't see a lot of boxes done anything like that. It still has a bunch of port area and I like the symmetry.

Them grand kids are somethin' else chop... that face is priceless and the smile on that lil girls face would melt anyone's heart!!

Option 1 is the best way to go, and with that much power on tap to those neo's they'll get more than loud enough.

Not without putting your tweets/horns on another amp and bridging the 100.4 to each side.

The stereo image is the sound "image" you hear with certain instruments, effects or singers on the left side of the stage with other instruments, effects or singers on the right side of the stage. For most music to sound right it takes a blend of the left and right from their perspective sides for the right image. There's a lot more to it than that, but the simplest explanation I can come up with is FM radio. Most HU's have an "ST" indicator on the display and if you've ever listened to a station where that indicator goes off and on and the difference in the sound of the music when it does so is the difference between listening to a stereo signal and a mono signal.

The amp is rated 320wrms bridged into 4 ohms and with both speakers connected each will see 160wrms, but I really don't think you need to put that much power to them first of all and second bridging the amp to the speakers will ruin the stereo image since it is a mono signal at that point. I'd go ahead and leave them hooked up normally, they'll still get plenty loud and it won't ruin the stereo image either.

That movie is a classic. My kids love it, along with other good movies from that era like Short Circuit, Harry and the Hendersons, Howard the Duck and many more, but the Goonies is just hard to beat man. BTW, sorry to hear about the bad luck dude. Hope things start to turn around quickly for you.

WooHoo!!! Yes, the SSA store and the guys behind it are #1!!

Sounds as though the center of the input that clamps around the pin could be a little worn out. If you can get to it with a pick or small screwdriver you might be able to bend them back in a little and get a better connection. If that's not possible then taping it is about the only solution. If the RCA's on the amp are a little worn out you should be able to recreate the problem by wiggling them, if not then your problem lies elsewhere IMO. Try bending and messing the the RCA cables themselves, grab/pull/yank on the speaker wires as well in various locations you can get to them to make sure you don't have something wrong in that area. You could also switch the RCA's around and see if it changes the speakers it happens on. If it does change then it's in the RCA cables, your HU or anywhere in between, if not then it could possibly be in the amp itself. Hope that's at least a little help.

The "Q" changes the amount of frequencies that are effected on each side of the EQ point. Say you have the EQ frequency set to 80hz for an example. As you adjust the Q up and down the "width" of the frequencies above and below 80hz changes. That allows you you tailor how much you want the 80hz EQ setting to affect the overall sound, basically. I'm having a hard time finding the right words to explain it. With the Q set all the way one way, the EQ may only affect a small band of frequencies centered around 80hz making it almost the 80hz only. Set it to the other extreme and it affects a much wider band centered on the 80hz, maybe more like 70hz to 90hz would also be adjusted when you adjust that EQ band. I'll be amazed if that makes sense to anyone else other than me, I really wish I could figure out a simpler way to explain it.

Woohoo!!! Deal of the century, got a Delta 10" table saw, 8" Delta scroll saw, black & decker router table and a full articulating Ryobi radial arm saw for $100!!!!

I'm not doubting the enclosures build quality. I've seen quite a few very well built pre-fab brands, the problem is in the size and tuning. Most pre-fab enclosures have a bit higher tuning than is optimal for most good subs and they're often on the small side as well. Without knowing the exact specs of your box, no one can say for certain, but I would imagine a box that's optimally built for the Type-R's would likely surprise you at what they're capable of. For the Type-R's you really don't need different amps, the one's you have are perfectly capable of running them to their fullest. If you're still bent on getting different subs the BL's are definitely great all around subs, but I can guarantee your prefab enclosure will not yield the great performance they're capable of giving.

I doubt you're going to gain much by changing just the subs. The Alpine Type-R's are proven performing subs and I'm led to believe that if you're looking for more output then you should look at your box. Sounds like a sort of pre-fab and it's not likely optimally tuned for those subs or your tastes. A good custom built box would do more for you for less money IMO. Don't get me wrong, I love Fi subs, but I think your money would be better spent on a new enclosure first.

I would love to make it, but I'm on-call. Have a good time for me!! lol

WooHoo!!! Got to meet some of the Chop family in person yesterday!! Had a great time meeting you, Gina and the girls. I love your idea for the sound off get together so I'll go ahead and say it here. To all the IAK family and anyone else who would be interested in attending, I've got enough room for any number of people and no one nearby to aggrivate with it so if it would ever be possible to get everyone within driving distance to work out a time it would be really cool to be able to organize a great big get together and sound off down here. It's a fair distance away but unlike most places up north there's more than enough room here and no neighbors close enough to bother with it as I'm sure Chop would attest to after visiting yesterday. Aside from the distance to travel it's the perfect place for it!!!! Looking forward to the next time we can get together and spend more time together Chop. As I said yesterday we could spend all day running around on the property, riding the quad, walking trails and enjoying the outdoors once the corn is out, or before the fields are planted again, lol.

Boy bro, you got a lot of work ahead of you. If there's anything I might be able to do to help from all the way down here, just let me know! :drink40:

Sucks to hear your comps are the 'ol "destruction is imminent " song. As Ohjay answered, yes they are sold in pairs. While I've not had a chance to listen to any of mine, yet, I can imagine the SQ of the Bravox sets are just as good and likely better than the Infinity's. All the reviews I've read point to very well designed and built drivers with SQ being more the goal than anything else. I've got a set of CS60K components and will be giving my opinion on them as soon as I get them in so if you're still trying to decide by then maybe that will help. If you're not as worried about staging and imaging (key components to real SQ) as you are just generally sounding good and getting louder then working on putting two sets of components in your front doors is a project that you can handle with a little input and guidance. There's different levels to custom fabrication and I don't think you'd need to jump right to the top just for a couple sets of components. On the other hand, you could always bridge the amp to the components and have an amazing amount of headroom for them. There's plenty of options.

It would.... and I would normally have done so. However, I started a thread in the Sound Deadening section about that very topic and believe Don @ SDS is correct that it's not necessary with the proper use of MLV. I'll be covering the door in CCF very soon and ordering the MLV very soon as well. Sealing all the holes only really helps stop the backwave from affecting the front wave, much like an enclosure, but at best it's still a much too large leaky sealed enclosure which doesn't do much to help the sound aside from helping cancellation. I think Don is right and using MLV will be just as effective a solution without making it difficult to work on the door later, and believe me I'll be giving a detailed report on how everything is working with the MLV. Thank you Sir... It's just starting to ramp up, got a LOT more work to do yet... Got the doors to finish deadening, the MDF baffles to complete for the doors, the Bravox CS60K's to install, power & speaker wire to run, an enclosure to build and finish and an amp rack to build and finish.... Much thanks bro!! Thanks dude... I got a good pace going now...

Okay, finally got to install some of the Damp Pro I won in a contest. Gotta say the stuff is really quite nice. I only got to put some on the passenger door but it made for a nice A-B comparison with the untreated drivers door. Surprisingly there was a VERY noticeable difference in the sound between the drivers and passenger doors that I'll sum up as cleaner sounding bass and midrange and a feelable difference in the impact of the bass as well. The best part is I can expect even better results when I get the CCF and MLV installed!!! Here's the pics of the progress of the installation.

I don't know what kind of area the OP or swagger is from but if they're home towns are like mine there's not a good place at all for a person to go and listen to anything other than the bottom line equipment from any company. Now "Crap" may have been a little strong a word, but locally the only items available are generally the lowest end offerings from any of the brands available, and as I said the only thing you're going to listen to them in is the demo wall which I'm pretty sure you yourself have mentioned is useless, I think. (<- I could very well be wrong there and remembering someone else saying that.) I've heard the offerings around here both in (close to) proper installations and in less than optimal situations and they don't impress me at all. As you mentioned to reach the very low price points they sell at there's so many compromises that it's hard to expect them to do very well for everything they're giving up. Sure some of the dealers here can ORDER the higher end components from these companies, but they're not in stock nor are then installed in anything if they are. If a person isn't afraid of trying something they can't listen to and is able to accept the fact that they're going to lose some money installing, trying and selling a product that didn't work out to try something else then why argue with them about doing it. For some of us there's just no better option since we don't want to settle for the less than stellar performance of the items we were able to listen to. The ONE and only time I was actually able to listen to a half way decent component set with a decent installation from a local retailer was very nice, but really the only time it's ever happened. I also gave no recommendation on anything, only listed some of the items I've purchased only on the recommendation of others. You're very right, no one has asked him how he intends to install them or made recommendations to him on making sure he no matter what he buys that he pays the most attention to the installation. You're right also that it's simply not mentioned enough in any thread about components, front stages or anything else of the like. Perhaps we need to revisit the core of the problem, as you identified it, and ask what he HAS listened to and why he didn't like them or at least why he's not considering them and try to help from there. Believe me I know how you and Brad feel about listening to something before buying it, but some of us may have to travel several hours one way just to be able to listen to something above the offerings at our local dealers. On a low budget or not that's quite inconvenient.

Nope, read every word, but saw the 2.8 ohm reading in the first post, saw in my head "2" and assumed D1 coil configuration since it wasn't actually stated anywhere, then read where you were wiring to 1 ohm so I had to ask. It's been clarified now and you were listing the DCR which threw off my original assumption. Like I said at the end of my post, I thought, and I was missing something. I don't think you're an idiot at all, was just trying to understand all I was reading. I still think the reason it's giving fits is due to the fact it's a load that is below the amps rated capability to properly handle for the ZX1500. Especially since you specifically mentioned it being connected to an SAZ-1500 and it didn't have the same problem that you noticed. As for the problem you witnessed on the Addictive Audio 500.1, well, I dunno, but just because the amp was built not to turn into a pile of ash at low loads doesn't mean it was designed to be accurate at them either, it is a full out competition amp geared toward pure SPL numbers. The amplifier also does some work to control cone movement and that ability is measured as damping factor. Every time you cut the load in half the damping factor is also cut in half. If the amp starts out with 50 @ 4 ohms it's down to ~12.5 at 1 ohm and not doing much to control as it could. There was a white sheet out awhile back that specified how a damping factor of 50 was more than adequate to do the job well, and I understand that the damping factor measurement in Class D amps is usually inaccurate due to the output design of the amp. There's a lot of factors that could be coming into play to answer your question.