altoncustomtech

No matter what sub you choose, if there was a dip in response between the sub and components you can always tweak it back in with the EQ in your HU. Even the cheap Pioneers have the ability to pick the frequency the "Bass" adjustment on the EQ centers at and the "Q" or how wide a set of frequencies it affects. The choice seems simple to me, which would be the one that sounds the best doing what it was intended to do, reproduce sub-bass frequencies. Dips or peaks in response can be dealt with easily enough. Have you even listened to or installed the components yet? Even though they're 5.25's they may just surprise you. Do you have any sound deadening installed or the components installed in a good solid baffle? Installation makes or breaks any setup and you should really concentrate on the installation of the components first, then decide and execute your sub purchase and installation accordingly. IMO a DCON will cover what you need wonderfully and if you're dead set against one the 187 will also do nicely. I agree with the others that the AQ isn't the best choice.

I agree. As did I on the Bravox 3 ways, CS60K's, ID's and pretty much every component set I've purchased. It's always best if you can listen to them, sure, but in some area's there's just no way you're going to get the opportunity to listen to anything much better than the standard mainstream offerings and even then you're only going to hear them in the demo wall, not even installed in a vehicle. Does than mean a person should only buy the mainstream crap that's available? Sometimes all we can rely on are the reviews and comments of others. It's hit or miss, but I'd rather take the chance of hitting one out of the ball park than never taking a swing. Besides, if it's a swing and a miss they can always be sold and another set bought.

I've done that in the van though I believe now it was required due to issues with the amp i had then as it seems the lights barely even flash with the new one. I started a thread HERE that details what I did and used for you or anyone else who may be interested.

I'm still trying to understand how you get a 1 ohm load in parallel on a sub that also wires to 2 ohms in series? If it's a D1 coil then when in series yes, it's a 2 ohm load but in parallel it's a .5 ohm nominal load. To me, a .5 ohm nominal load on an amp that's only rated for 2 ohms in the first place is going to have major issues which can cause loss of cone control and severe clipping to start. I am probably missing something here.... but that's how I see it.

Yeah, it's a problem I sure as hell didn't foresee. A little custom work and it can be remedied tho. I got lucky with the Type R cups being handy, but I was fully ready to build adapters for it. Have you tried using double sided tape and sticking them around a few different places first? I would suggest doing that and making sure that's where they sound the best to you, then make the decision whether to cut the panels or not and whether or not you could live with slightly less that optimal response to save from having to cut the holes.

WOOOHOOOO!!! This build is finally starting to kick off!!! Did a lot of work this weekend pulling out all the rear trim panels from behind the front doors to the tailgate to install CLD and CCF behind it all. I also put some strips of CCF in spots where the plastic rubs and makes way too much noise. I also started on the doors, and will have pictures of them up soon, for now I got a few pics of the process in the back to put up. Again, due to the heat it's not a step by step photo shoot, but it should give an idea of the work involved. Here's a quick shot of the CLD and CCF. It's a roll of the old RaamMat BXT60 I've had for awhile and some of the RaamAudio peal and stick CCF. From behind the truck with everything tore out of the driver's side. And the process as I got pictures of it..... That's basically it until the process with the doors is complete. A note to anyone who's been thinking about installing sound deadening but haven't due to wondering whether or not it's worth it or not, don't short change yourselves. The difference it makes in the amount of road noise you hear, the squeaks and rattles from panels, and the overall sound of your music to your ears is well worth the time, effort and money it costs to do it. I took the Jimmy for a quick drive to test everything out, and with a couple of the worst gravel roads leading either direction away from my house I have a great test bed to find every little squeak, rattle and annoying noise a vehicle can possibly have. I heard pretty much nothing from the rear of the truck, at least not over the squeaks and rattles of the doors and dash. Even the noise of the gravel under the tires was lessened and with so much less noise the PG's have never sounded better or as loud. Now on to the doors and installation of the Bravox CS60K's!!!!

Ding, Ding, Ding!!! Thank you Don! I had some theories, which is why I made this thread, to help pan out my thoughts, theories and the facts. I've always liked what covering the holes did to help the sound. Though on the same line of thought I couldn't help but come to the realization that it would seem that a layer of MLV would or could negate the need for "sealing" up the door in the first place as long as it was properly deadened in the first place. It just kind of made sense and staring down the fact I was going to be doing this very soon (began yesterday as a matter of fact) I was really hoping it would work out that way. It makes for less work and will definitely help with a couple of other concerns I have with a window motor that's possibly looking for replacement. Thanks again guys, I think you're all a bigger help and asset than you realize.

That's pretty much what I was looking for and pretty much the way I've been used to doing it like I mentioned, except for the MLV. I'm looking forward to the improvements the MLV makes as well. Glad to see an answer too, I'm starting on the doors tomorrow.

I had nearly the same problem with the Atlas's in the van. What happened was between a cold solder joint and being mounted vertically one of the filter coils was jarred loose. All I had to do to repair it was to resolder it back to the board, then to prevent it from happening again I took a hot glue gun and put a good bead of glue around all the components so that it wouldn't happen again. If I were you I'd take the top off the crossover and wiggle all the components a little. If it goes on and off again you know what's up and how to fix it.

Well, my lil bro got his replacement vehicle today. 2004 Chevy Trailblazer, white, 4wd and clean as a whistle, a very nice truck. Pics to follow.

How many ports?

That's cool... I'm so much of a damn hermit though, I'll probably just spend most of the time at the hotel or maybe the beach, it's not that far away ....

wow..... well... at least it's in the ballpark.... any good sites to see in the area that you know of?? other than the beach?? and bikini's!!!!

The city of Lake Forest. It's SE of Santa Ana and Irvine on the map. Other than that.... I dunno...

I'm going to be out that way for company paid training the week of the 12th in September. Would be awesome to meet up with some forum members and get some demos!!

I've been working with sound deadeners for years. I've tried everything that wasn't a true sound deadener all the way up to Dynamat Extreme, RaamMat BXT and Second Skin over the years and have seen, read and tried all sorts of application theories. I'm getting ready to tear into my JImmy and have been trying to consider the best course of action where the doors are concerned. Like the way Don and Aaron worked on Aaron's car and used the SDS products for a complete and total noise control system is my end goal. I have gathered quite a bit of CLD and CCF for the install and when the funds become available I'll be purchasing the MLV I need to complete it. What I'm trying to find out is on the treatment of the doors. I learned of and liked the results I got from the much used way of doing the doors in the past where a person takes some flashing material, perforated metal, plexi or plastic and covered all the big holes in the door then covered the entire surface with CLD. The results from doing that were usually quite nice with much improved bass response from the door speakers. However, I can also see how the MLV and all it's mass would also be quite effective at keeping the back wave under control. So, what is the best way to handle the doors? Do both? Don't worry about sealing all the holes? What is the best way to proceed with this task now since 25% CLD coverage is basically all that's needed?

Just a guess, but the tapping noise could have well been the amp giving out. Best thing to do to be certain is hook the sub up to another known good amp and listen for any sign of the noise again. IMO if the coils are both reading 1.8 it's most likely the amp was the culprit.

That's a lot of volume available, plenty for a couple of 15's ported. The problem I see with the available measurements is that you won't be able to use a slot port enclousre IMO. The 15" subs will have use ~31.5" width side by side and you only have 34.5 width inside the enclosure. That leaves you with only 3" available for port width and at 17.5" enclosure height max (16" inside) that's only 48sqin of port area and just not enough for a pair of 15's to me. You'll likely need to look at using Aeroports or slide the subs to each side of the enclosure and use triangle shaped ports at the top and bottom between the subs, maybe. Otherwise I like 32hz tuning on the Q's myself.

I assume you mean one cut and made from MDF, Birch, or some other wood. I have them in my van, and have them cut and ready to install for my Jimmy. It stands to reason that having a heavy, solid place to mount the driver will help reduce resonances and help overall output by not losing the driving force of the motor into a flimsy baffle. Or, at least those were the reasons I've read and done it for and there's definitely a noticeable difference between a good MDF baffle and the factory plastic or sheet metal of the door IMHO. So I feel it's worth it, others may disagree.

Thanks man! Thank you sir, and you're right it can be done any time. When his son gets to driving it regularly I'm sure there will be much more work done. I couldn't believe it fit either. Not only did it fit, but there's 1/0 AND 4awg stuffed in that one side. Although I did move the factory wires that ran through that side to the other side of the track, it still simply amazed me that it worked.

Yep, while spending thousands can yield a really awesome system, it doesn't necessarily take that much for most people. About $1k is enough to do it pretty decent and with the performance that can be gotten from today's equipment it can make the majority of people VERY happy. I've always liked doing budget builds myself. It's a fun challange to get all you can out of stuff you spent as little as possible on.

Don't ya think? LOL, couldn't help it. Congrats on the sponsorship man!!!!!!!!! :drink40: :woot:

Alright, got everything installed, hooked up and done last night. He and his son came to pick it up and were very happy with it. His son was very surprised with how clean it sounded. Apparently he has a cousin who's into car audio who's ride "sounds like a public pool full of fat girls farting in the water", those were his words verbatim, LOL!! So, they're happy it turned out pretty clean and the overall sound was enough to make them more than happy with it. My co-worker said his son spent around 2.5hrs playing with and listening to it last night after they got it home. As before, the pics are pretty limited, but they tell the tale so here we go. Can you believe the factory wire tracks had enough room in them to fit a run of Knukonceptz 1/0 AND 4 gauge CCA wire? Here's a couple of pictures of the wires getting routed to their intended locations. Got the rear driver's side trim panel and the back seat back in the truck. Here's a couple of shots with everything wired up and ready to rumble. Overall it didn't turn out too bad to me. The subs are horribly choked by the box configuration though and that really seemed to mess with some of the response and output but I don't believe anyone with less building, tuning and listening experience would ever notice without a side by side comparison. The CDT components were decent as well and showed the limitations I expected for their intended price point. First was the tweeters which were quite bright, almost to the point of annoyance on some songs. Even with some fine EQ tweaking they seemed had a tendency to want to shriek on some music. The other thing I noticed was the mid-bass's inability to handle almost any bass frequencies at all. CDT shows in their specs a power handling of 150wrms WITH a crossover point of 100hz. I have to say it seems as though the power handling drops off significantly with the crossover anywhere below 100hz which was a little disappointing. Luckily in the sealed enclosure the subs were up to the task of stretching that high with little localization to them, which was plenty good enough for the boy's first setup. Overall it should make him plenty happy until his craving for more bass starts to take over, at which time I believe we'll probably be removing the back seat all together and doing another build with different subs and components and a ported enclosure.

to the forum!!

I also completely agree, there's nothing wrong with headroom at all when it's used for the right reasons.