altoncustomtech

Sorry about that I was having a bad day yesterday..... The tweeters are actually VERY close to the mid on this thing. While it can be a problem to have a big distance between them effecting response along the lines of timing between the tweet and mid and cancellation issues both affecting staging and imaging, on this particular setup they're about as close as they can get without it being some sort of coax. The tweeter is only ~2" above the mid and they image quite well. I don't agree with what those guys told you about having the drivers high up on the door. If that was truly a problem then everyone who has active setups with the full ranges or components installed in their A-pillars would suffer problems from what they said. Even though separating the drivers (ex: mid & tweet) can cause problems, like anything else it's completely install dependent. My van for example, has the mids in the factory locations low in the door and the tweeters up on the A pillars right next to the windshield. After three weeks of playing with placements and phasing I found that configuration yielded the best results without doing completely custom fab work.

I agree with the above statements. Countersink and leave the screws in, won't hurt anything. It's easy enough to take body filler, wood putty, etc. and fill in the holes, then sand it all down. If you look at pictures of the box I built for the van you can see the before and after on the screws that hold the MDF ring that seats the plexi in the box. It does look WAY better than leaving the screws and countersinks visible. EDIT: Nevermind, I just went and got the links to the pics. Before.......... After......

Thanks in advance It’s never good to have speakers away from each other and high in a door is also no good JG CDT support Not trying to sound like a dick, wait it's my thread what do I care, and this post has to do with my build how?

A small update to post up here. My brotha from anotha motha J-ROADTATTS was a real gem and sent me a couple of old Type R components tweeter cups to help out with the install. It seems that the flush mount tweeter cups for the PG RSD tweets are much larger than the Bravox CS60K tweeter's flush mount. Would have had the same problem with the ID's as well. So I got to working on it a little this weekend and was able to verify for certain that the Type R cups should work fine, of course with a little modification. On to the pics.... Here's a shot of one of the Type R cups. Took the dremel and removed about 1/16" of material from the inside of the cup, you can see the tooling marks in this pic. Here's a couple of pics with the Bravox tweet slid comfortably into the Type R cup. Fits like a glove, but I'll secure it with a little CA glue before installing into the vehicle. Hopefully I'll get the Damp pro and components installed VERY soon and then I'll be getting to work running wires and building the amp rack and enclosure for the SA-8's!!!! Woohoo, thank GOD for Spring time!!!!

Nice werk on them doors.

Happy Brithday!! :gift: :gift:

Port noise and unusual response anomalies come to mind. It will pretty much just act like a leaky sealed box. When ports are too big, or too small they stop working like a port and to me 30 1/8" ports are just way too small as it's only .36sqin of port area. If you want to do something for an SSA logo effect, I'd suggest embossing, or a router for that. A bunch of tiny ports are just going to cause problems.

Awesome vid!!! All I gotta say is DAMN DO I MISS MOTOCROSS!!! Me and my cousin used to race when I was in high school and loved it. That track just looks sick, would love to spend some time on it!! Of course, I've gotten old and fat enough now I'd probably kill myself so it's probably not a good idea.

to the forum!! Eh, to hell with SMD, we're lots nicer, easier to put up with and more tolerant. Not to mention we're all better looking, smarter and have better looking women. :lol2: :lol2:

So would that be the specs that are show on the subs like Qes, Qms, Qts, Xmax, etc..? Because when I used this one calc to build my box a while ago I think it did have me enter something like this. Thanks for explaining this to me, I appreciate it. And sorry if I got off topic at all Yup, thems are the T/S parameters.... Thanks, that's a 22" long vinyl sticker I bought from Fi stuck to the plexi window on the front of the box. And now, back to the regularly scheduled programming.

ooooooooopppss.... yep I missed the "drop in" statement toward the end of your OP. lol, well, that's a horse of a different color. Tang Band 8" <- I used this one to replace a sub in another cheaper brand HTIB and it did very well. Past that, I'm outta suggestions, lol. Good luck bro, and let us know what u go with and how it works out.

Very good idea Correct me anyone if im wrong, but that shouldnt affect the tuning just the internal cu ft of the box. Yep, it will affect the tuning. For a given port, if you add space to the enclosure (like putting a sub in with a smaller displacement) it will lower tuning. If you use up more space, you will raise the tuning. However, in MOST cases it's not going to be audible but it's the reason why several of the books out there on enclosure design and building suggest building the enclosure on the large side. It's easy to add some wood blocks or something to take up some space and bring the tuning up to where you want it, it's really really hard to add space.

The T/S parameters are the electro-mechanical specifications that are used to design for a specific driver. They have to do with the compliance, or stiffness of the suspension, the strength of the motor, and much much more. This information, when measured/determined accurately, can tell exactly how that driver will perform in given situations and can be used to derive the ideal enclosure alignment in which to use it. That's all done with some very in depth but easy to get a hold of formulas. Also, there's lots of programs out there that do the math for you, though they're not always entirely accurate. EVERY driver, even "sister" ones off the same assembly line, have different T/S specifications though the "sister" ones will or should be very close.

Go with the 10" Dayton Titanic MKIII kit, ya can't go wrong for the price. I've assembled and installed two of them in the last year and they're quite the setup IMHO. Just my .02

Picked mine up at the post office today!! The mail man wouldn't drop the box at the house cuz of the dogs.

^^ This guys, not everyone is as familiar with this process as some of us may be. Like Sean said, play a 2500hz tone with the crossover set to off or flat and measure the output voltage (DMM should be set to measure AC Volts). It doesn't really matter what the voltage output is at this point. We are simply measuring the output voltage now so that we have a baseline to work from. To find the -3db point, and your target voltage, you would multiply the voltage you measured by .707. Then turn the crossover back on and adjust the crossover dial until the voltage decreases to the target voltage you just calculated. When the voltage reaches that target voltage, the crossover is set to 2500hz. So, for example, let's say you play the 2500hz test tone and measure an output voltage of 5V with the crossover set to flat (or off). Then your target voltage for a 2500hz crossover point would 5 * .707 = 3.535V. So turn the crossover on and measure the output voltage while adjusting the crossover knob. When the output voltage drops to 3.54V, that's the -3db point of the signal.....meaning you successfully set the crossover to 2500hz. For those that don't know, for a standard Butterworth crossover (the type of crossover found in most, but not all, amplifiers) the crossover point is defined as the -3db point of the signal. Hence why we know that the crossover is set to 2500hz when the signal has decreased by -3db. And we calculate the -3db point of the signal as the point where the signal has decreased to .707 of it's original value because for voltage the conversion to decibels is 20*log(Voltage1/Voltage2). So 20*log(1 / .707) = 3.01db. Therefore, the point where the signal has decreased to .707 of it's original value is the -3db point of the signal, and the -3db point of the signal defines the crossover point Now you know, and knowing is half the battle. Thank you for replying. I knew you could do a better job of explaining it than I could.

Woohoo!!! :woot: Now I gotta order a few more.... lol

You could always make your own. Schematics and parts lists for those fairly simple devices are available. Or you could even get an old style analog meter and do something cool with that, and it would be easier than the digital.

Wonder if he applied pressure to different panels through out the vehicle / held a piece of plywood in the cabin at different positions / angles, if the noise would lessen. Kinda shooting in the dark at this point, at least with my experience. We did a crap load of testing Saturday since the weather was actually decent for once. I had my little brother and a buddy of his lean, press and lie on all the different panels and surfaces of the van. The only thing I was able to discover doing this is that it looks like there's a possibility that the roof braces have come loose from the roof panel. I haven't had a chance to pull the ceiling cover all the way off yet, but what I saw when I pulled it down enough to look up there wasn't very reassuring, at all. I did my best to shove some CCF in between for now and see what I can do about it in the long run later. Unfortunately the CCF didn't change the weird sound much at all at very high volumes though helped a bunch at mid-high levels, so it is definitely part of the problem as I'll describe below. I have actually done this many times before, and of course only heard the phenomena when the subs played AND the van was closed up. However, that changed a little this time around. After finding the roof braces ripped loose from the roof panel I went about doing this test once again and found a VERY interesting difference. It only really made the sound badly when the mids and the subs played together. Upon further testing I found it would only do it when the rears were playing with the subs, no weird sounds when just the fronts played at mid-high levels though it would return at very high levels but was localizable to the roof. So now at this point I'm looking very hard at what's wrong with the rears and was finally able to find an answer. It seems the rear HPF filter on the HU doesn't work at all. I played some bass heavy music with the rear door open and the 100.4 is kicking the living crap out of them. Turned on the HPF on the amp and viola, the sound is gone. It seems that with the HPF on the rear channels in the HU not working and the door being closed (which puts the 6.5's right there by the subs) caused an interaction with the pressure from the 12's that made the sound, the best I can figure. Either way, the problem is pretty much solved. Thanks you guys for all the help and suggestions!!

sorry, but it is what it is... No problem, I was just curious....

One question. Any chance it can be turned on for the topics on the front page? It works great and is a great feature in the sections, but it would be just as if not more handy on the front page, or main page, or whatever it's referred to. Just wonderin......

Awesome!! That will be a handy, nice new feature!!

The problem here is that you used the wrong product for the wrong application. Second skin is a dampener, not a noise blocker, it's designed to dampen panel resonances. The LLP is the product you needed to block road noise. Granted, the Damplifier and LLP work together by design, but considering that she's not running any stereo equipment, my understanding is that the Damplifier isn't even needed for what you/she is trying to do. Hopefully someone with some more experience in the matter can give some more information.

Glad to hear ya had a great time!!! :woot:

Only specs I didn't see listed here that would be of further benefit is the SD and the XMAX.