altoncustomtech

Looks like it turned out real good. I figure that now that you've gotten and used the router with the circle jigs and other bits that you wonder how you ever built boxes without before, lol. It's been a long time coming and I'm REALLY glad it turned out so well. Gotta get with ya sometime and get all the skinny details on how it's sounding. Can't wait to see it completely finished, it fits the truck so well!!

Dude, as M5 stated in the other thread, most likely you don't have the proper room for 12's in the cab of that truck. Three SA-8's could do well though.

You know, the easy math says that 10kw of power is 100volts at 100amps. Not only could you blow the cones off the DD9515's, you can weld together any of the parts that break on the car from it. Awesome grab dude.

In all seriousness, welcome to the forum dude.

First of all, neither MLV or deadener bounce any waves by design, the MLV will absorb them though. Second, IF the waves were some how sped up it would cause the frequency to rise which would be VERY bad in any situation and screw everything up in the response. It's still not a stupid question, or theory. Nothing wrong with trying to think outside the box, and if you don't ask you'll never learn anything.

Um, you'd waste money? All I've ever heard about doing it is that it would do no good what so ever. However, I used to know some old school enthusiasts who would line a few walls in a ported enclosure with quilt batting claiming it helped in some way. Never did a before and after comparison to see if there really was any difference though. It would probably be tough to keep something like that in the enclosure too with the large ports, high power, and sheer volume of air most of us are moving with our subs and enclosures. Most of these guys were building simpler, smaller, and lower power home speakers. Not a dumb question though.

^^^^ THOSE ARE REAL TOO!!!!!!! LOL, she is a blessed woman.

I would imagine they are still available or they wouldn't be on the website. I also just ordered two for some friends Friday, just after the new year hit. Place the order, the worst that can happen is they'll have to refund the monies.

Being an owner of the exact setup you're pushing for (pair of 12" Q's in 4.2cuft tuned to 32hz) I can tell you the response is great. The subs can get plenty loud enough and sound amazing with the upper bass notes coming across crisp and tight and the deep notes rumbling through with authority, sometimes violently.

WOOHOO!!! Congratulations to the entire Hinkle family and welcome ado to the new family member!!! It's been a long, hard road for Samantha and the baby but the worst is over now, prayers and good wishes go out to all of you!!

LOL.... gotta love reading things on the internet.... I know and I agree, there is at times too much emphasis pointed to having it done.... and all I was really trying to say was that with the emphaiss aside, it doesn't hurt anything to have it done either.....

The big 3 is always a good idea, but it is too over-hyped. You do realize this same wire is carrying over 500 amps while your car is starting yet you don't see manufacturers putting 2/0 in the car to handle that do you. The fact of the matter is, That alt will very rarely, if ever, be supplying 270 amps, much less be doing it at a constant rate, so many times stock wiring is fine. I dunno about 500 amps. My 2007 Chevy 2500HD work truck with the 6.0L only pulls 180-200amps when starting, measured with a DC clamp on multiple times for some other testing we were doing to the truck. Plus that 180-200 was only for a second, maybe two, not near enough time to build any real heat on the stock wires. Even 500 amps, given it was only a short burst of a few seconds tops, wouldn't heat the stock size wiring up enough to cause any trouble. Don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing against your point, when it comes to current draw it's seldom ever at high rates for any period of time unless you're playing sine waves instead of music. BUT even so, the current draw whether it's 100amps or 400 amps is more efficiently transferred with the BIG 3. The first thing I noticed in my van when I did the BIG 3 was that it did indeed seem to start a little faster/easier as well as support the audio equipment better overall with less voltage drop than without it. While it could all be debated, one thing is for certain when it comes to current flow is that there's no way the extra capacity to flow will ever hurt anything.

Search function.... two minutes.... easy..... .19cuft per, .38 for two....

They don't have to be inaccurate if the people who create them think of such things. The calc sheet I use takes, sub,port and port wall displacements into the calculation and with a little ingenuitive figuring anything else such as bracing, plexi, etc. can be added as well. It's not impossible, just takes more time to include. As far as the OP's design is concerned, I completely agree with Andrew on this. If you think it's fine run with it. It's not enough port area for my tastes either, however I also understand that sometimes a compromise has to be made to get things to work/fit/cooperate in these screwy environments that are our vehicles. I would go through it a few more times, take extra measurements, whatever it takes and be completely satisfied with the theoretical results before making the first cut though, if I were you.

Whoa bro... glad you and your buddy turned out of the accident ok.

Dude, that is great! I assume you're rewinding those by hand in most cases, simply awesome. Even if you weren't, that would take quite a bit of skill and patience to do those repairs, especially with the condition some of them were in. Nice job.

he's doing that troubleshooting step right now

Hey guys.... I been talkin to him... it's different than you're realizing... Right now, the only wires connected to the amp ARE: BATT+, Ground, speaker wires AND RCA's. The wire from the HU is no longer connected to the amps at any point in the line. What happens is that when he connects, with a short 4" lead, the remote terminal of the master, to the slave, the master powers on. I have seen these kinds of problems in motor control centers when a relay or contactor's neutral/ground gets a bad connection. It can cause a strange feedback like situation, for reasons unknown to me that causes others to stay pulled in, or not work, and otherwise wreak complete havoc in the panel on anything that shares the same set of power and ground connections. I believe there's a problem with a remote relay inside one of the amps.

^^^ X2.... patience grasshopper....

Oh, no. We don't compress the gas like that, our pipeline is all standard Natural Gas in gaseous form. The maximum amount of compression differential these can handle is ~300psi. In other words if you have 600psi of suction pressure, the maximum discharge could only be around 900psi.... any more than that and they'll tell you all about the load they're under and how they can't handle it.... LNG is usually several thousand pounds if I'm not mistaken.

Actually we do quite a bit of small routine maintenance, otherwise as long as things are going smooth they don't require a ton of maintenance to keep runnning. Adjustments to the lifters and "balancing" the power cylinders are done on a weekly basis. Otherwise we just keep em cleaned up and running smooth. LOL @ the turbo on the GN!! I said the EXACT same thing about my Jimmy on a blazer forum!!! LOL.... After saying that I looked at the valve train a bit closer. Are those individual oilers on each unit? I was thinking of the fulcrum and contact points needing a lot of lubrication, but then i noticed what looked like oilers on it. Nope, no oilers, we grease all those points every other day roughly. There is a oiling system that oils points in the upper power cylinder walls, the pressure packing in the compressor cylinders and the compressor cylinders themselves, but when it comes to the fuel valves we have to grease them ourselves. These engines were built and installed in 1959, back then there was nothing automatic on them at all, lol.

Actually we do quite a bit of small routine maintenance, otherwise as long as things are going smooth they don't require a ton of maintenance to keep runnning. Adjustments to the lifters and "balancing" the power cylinders are done on a weekly basis. Otherwise we just keep em cleaned up and running smooth. LOL @ the turbo on the GN!! I said the EXACT same thing about my Jimmy on a blazer forum!!! LOL....

LOL.... not quite..... gives an average of 4-6psi boost to the engines.... maxes out at 15-16psi if the waste gate sticks closed.... but the sheer volume of air is crazy...