altoncustomtech

On another note take a look at this ->Problem blowing tweeters? Try this..... I'm not sure exactly what they do to help, but Bose, Phoenix Gold, Polk Audio and many other manufacturers use the same technique to protect the tweeters in their speaker systems. It could help save you from this problem in the future.

www.db-r.com This should get you rolling.

I agree, looks like it's shot. I'd recommend getting a hold of db-r and seeing if he can repair it for you, unless it's still under warranty.

nothing wrong with that, i wouldn't mind paying to be a beta tester. X2,000,000 I'd gladly pay to be a Sundown Audio BETA tester!!! I have a friend who is basically a BETA tester for Bowler Transmission. He helps them design specialized parts, cases and other crap then throws the tranny in one of his machines and puts the balls to the wall to see if it does what it's supposed to do. I'd do that for Sundown in a heartbeat. If for no other reason just to help spread the Sundown Audio name around here!

A thing of beauty. That's some incredible #'s for a 3.8L V6. I've seen a few hot ones around here but none are that hot. Anywhere near 500HP from any V6 isn't playin' around.

Well, glad to hear that it's working now. It's easier than a lot of people think to get a wire wrong when you have multiple, multiple voice coil subs, which is why it's mentioned almost every time someone posts a problem like this.

I'm tuned in just to see how you shoehorn those 18's into that thing.

I'd have to say my favorite amp was the first one I ever had, US Amps A50HC. A guy traded it to me for doing some repair work in my high school electronics class for him. I never did know it at the time, but that was one hell of a competition amp stable down to something like .25 ohms stereo. I did know that I could barely use the thing, installed in my 1970 chevy truck it could run the battery down even when I was flyin' down the highway (factory size 60 amp alt), used (what seemed at the time) way too much current. Burnt up 3 alternators and a few batteries as well while it was installed. The other funny thing about it was that it has the 4awg power wires soldered directly onto the circuit board which I still find odd. It drove anything I ever hooked up to it with authority, though not without getting hot enough at almost ANY ohm load to easily fry bacon on. I could still kick myself for trading it to a guy for 2 Profile A200XL amps. At the time I thought it was a hell of a deal cuz I was getting two for the one AND they didn't drain my electrical like the A50HC did, but you live and you learn. I put that amp through 9 kinds of hell, even had 10 house speakers hooked up to it at one time goofing off and it wouldn't slow down, just got hotter, lol.

It could be, but I don't think port unloading affects the sound through the entire played frequency range and generally causes problems like one sub to move further than the other and other weird happenings and then usually only under high power. Now that begs the question, are you noticing the bad sound at high volumes only or at any volume level? Are you seeing the subs moving in any other fashion than in unison? Someone with better knowledge of port unloading should chime in here, I'm limited in my experience and knowledge of the problem, though I was always under the notion that it isn't really a problem for most daily drivers.

EVERYTHING effects the response of the subs. The problems you're having though I still don't feel that the enclosure's higher tuning is fully to blame. I'd still like to know that you've double checked all the wiring on the subs and tested them with a small battery to verify they're both moving and moving in the same direction. If that's truly kosher then we should probably look at other potential problems, I say this because just having a box tuned to 38hz instead of 33 shouldn't make the sound absolute crap unless you were already used to a very good low tuned setup before this and are comparing the two, just MHO.

Welcome to the forum!!

From the quick calculations I had done It looks like you'd need about another 8" of port length to get the 33hz tune. Not something that can be easily performed on an existing enclosure, it would also reduce the internal volume to about the minimum specs Fi recommends for the those subs. DON'T quote me on that 8" either, that's just punching a few fast #'s in, to be dead on it would require much more precise figuring.

I don't think you can add the port displacement to the calculation, you have no idea what the displacement will be until you know all 3 dimensions of the port. You have to use the target volume when calculating.

Sounds like you got it figured out, looking forward to the build log on that 4th order.

That's about what I was coming up with. Another question, is the box perfectly sealed up, no air leaks? Air leaks in a ported enclosure can ruin the function of the enclosure VERY quickly.

2.8 is the smallest recomended enclosure. I think with 500 xtra watts rms it shouldn't make that much of a difference correct? Wouldn't the smaller airspace help control the cone? BL15: Displacement: 0.21cuft Chaos15: Driver Displacement 0.17 CF .04 difference shouldn't be a problem right? I got the 3-5 right from the website in the BL woofer's listing, seems we need to see if one of the Fi guys can verify which is more correct. Otherwise, yes the smaller air space can help to control the cone, although even with only .04 difference the tuning will be slightly higher, though it's likely it will not even be noticeable. IMO if I had the money I'd try it, the worst that could happen is that it simply doesn't perform as well as you would have preferred and in that case you could sell the BL and get something else or try another enclosure.

The tuning on the box seems WAY off, but I'm still calculating it..... Are you POSITIVE the subs are wired in phase with each other and the voice coils on both subs are in phase? Chances are that you're having a difficult time setting the gains with a DMM because the output voltage on that Jensen unit is probably very low, but that shouldn't cause the problems you're experiencing. It really seems like another problem.

Sounds like you need help all the way around. Give us more info, what HU, what amp, what electrical, what's the specs on the enclosure? The more info you give us, the easier it will be to help you out.

I don't have any experience with that sub at all, but I would be concerned about it performing at it's best in that space. Fi's site recommends 3-5 cuft. the .2 cuft difference of 2.8 isn't that much smaller, though I'm not sure if the BL may have more or less displacement than the Chaos. If it has more displacement then the net air space will be even smaller than 2.8, if it has less then it will be even closer to 3cuft. Either way it is just outside of minimum specs. Hopefully someone with better experience can chime in with more info. Besides, unless you were putting 2 or 3x the power to the sub seems like you'd be looking for a larger enclosure for #'s anyway unless I'm thinking bass ackwards again.

What would you want for it in it's current condition?

Thanks guys, and how is it holding up so far? No pealing, chipping or anything yet? I'm not worried about it covering imperfections, I planned on having the enclosure, floor and rack paint ready even when I planned on carpeting it which requires having almost all imperfections repaired. It will be handy if I don't have to primer it first, that will save some time and money!

I know I've seen plenty of people use spray/roll on bed linings for the outside of their enclosures and such. I am wondering two things though, was it applied to the bare MDF or with a primer on the MDF first and how well is it holding up after "x" amount of time? I'm about to start on the enclosure and amp rack for my Jimmy. I had planned to paint the port to match the truck and use standard charcoal colored cabinet carpet to cover the box and amp rack with. Though upon thinking about possible liquid damage to the MDF on the floor/amp rack I'll be building I thought perhaps the liquid bed liner may be the better route. I have no experience with it though so I was hoping that those of you who have used it before may be able to give me some pointers. Thanks in advance guys!

For me, it's that I've always been a music fanatic. If I had any talent I'd probably be singing or playing an instrument in a band but sadly I have no talent for making music. However, I still LOVE to listen to it. I can't get away from car audio because I like to listen to my music on the same level in my vehicles as I do in my own house, both in loudness AND sound quality. I appreciate a "true as possible" reproduction of my music and with my vehicles it's not only nice to have that but a good amount of fun doing the work to get it. Not to mention that helping teach today's youth about right from wrong in car audio and how and why things work the way they do is fun and rewarding as well. Those are the reasons I can't get away from car audio.

Try a local auto shop such as Advance Auto, they're starting to stock more and more metric screws and bolts, they may have a good replacement available. I would try getting a tap and tapping it out another size bigger with new set screws. I wouldn't want to disturb the solder joints on that circuit board. Otherwise you might be better off sending in to db-r for repair.

You'll need a D2 sub wired in parallel for a final 1 ohm load. All 3 subs would perform great on your amp, personally if I was you I'd go with the SSD. You'll save a few $$$ and have plenty of headroom available which is a good thing. Phi's suggestion is a great one as well, running just one 15 ported would be a great option.